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Weak agitation, clothes wet after spin

weak agitation intermittent spin no spin

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11 replies to this topic

#1 part-time spinner

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 05:57 PM

I've been doing a lot of research and trying to narrow down the cause of this problem:

First, it is a Whirlpool Estate Direct Drive washer with a ONE PIECE agitator (so NO DOGS to replace). This one piece agitator must not be very common because the only advice I ever see concerning weak agitation is to replace the dogs, which only exist on two piece agitators....so this is obviously not a solution for my machine.

The first problem we noticed was that our clothes were no longer getting rinsed well and we had to run extra rinse cycles to get the soap out. We noticed that the clothes were not rolling in the basket as they should, but more like jiggling in place. We do not overload. This happens with small loads. So I'm guessing that this is what is called “weak agitation”.

Now we have another problem. The clothes are wet after the spin cycle. They are sitting in the bottom of the basket, not spun up against the side of the basket as they should be. The water drains out fine and there is no water sitting anywhere or dripping into the basket after the spin. Again, this happens with small loads, not just large loads. This is also sporadic and inconsistent. I can run the same load (never take it out of the washer) several times and sometimes it will be soaking wet, sometimes not as much, but always much wetter than it should be under normal operating conditions.

What I know so far:

I ran through an entire cycle with just water and observed everything. I peeked under the lid with a flashlight and watched without tripping the lid switch. It looked like it was agitating back and forth correctly (no clothes, just water). The cycles worked as they should. The water drains fine and the pump is new. During spin, the tub was spinning and seemed to spin faster at the end of the cycle just fine (empty of course). The motor and timer seem to be working just fine. The lid switch has always worked exactly as it's designed. If I lift the lid, I can see the spin come to a stop. If I close it, I hear the click and the machine begins to run again. I don't hear any unusual noises. I don't hear any banging indicative of a worn drive block. There are no burning smells. There is no oil or black dust under the machine.

The machine seemed to run fine empty, but fails to agitate and spin correctly as soon as you put a small load of clothes in.

I'm narrowing it down to the following and trying to make sure I get all potential parts ordered before we tear into this thing so I can hopefully fix it at the same time:

1. Clutch Assembly – if it's worn, would it cause weak agitation and no spin when clothes are causing weight in the basket?
2. Motor Coupler – I looked under the machine and it doesn't look broken, but I can't see if the hole is rounded out causing it to slip and not grab the transmission shaft.
3. Drive Block – I don't have any noise, so I doubt this, but I can return it.

It is my understanding that if the 3 items above are fine and not the cause of the problem, then the cause is the gearcase/transmission and the only way to find out is to eliminate the above parts as potential problems.

Any advice, thoughts? Am I missing something?



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#2 fairbank56

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 06:21 PM

  Washer model number??? The only thing common to both agitation and spin in your list is the motor coupler. Clutch is only operational during spin as is drive block although a bad drive block can cause the basket to move around during agitation. Are you able to easily rotate basket by hand?

 

Eric



#3 part-time spinner

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 06:32 PM

Model TAWS700RQ2. The basket doesn't move around much during agitation and I can rotate it by hand fairly easily. I know what you're saying. Both problems didn't start at the same time, so I'm wondering if I might not have two different problems going on.



#4 part-time spinner

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 06:36 PM

Would the gearcase/transmission cause both agitation and spin issues like this?



#5 fairbank56

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 06:48 PM

  I doubt it's the gearcase since it runs fine without clothes in basket. You should not be able to easily rotate the basket by hand so that signals a bad drive block. Remove the agitator to inspect the top of the drive block. Check that the slots in the drive block are intact as well as the tabs on the drive tube and that the tabs are engaged and locked into the slots. Check that the spanner nut is tight.  Rotate basket while observing drive block. If basket rotates independently of drive block or basket and drive block rotate together but independent of drive tube then drive block is bad. If basket, drive block and drive tube all rotate together then something is amiss with the brakes.

 

Eric

 

WhirlpoolDriveBlock.jpg


Edited by fairbank56, 09 March 2014 - 06:53 PM.


#6 Thirstytech

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 06:56 PM

Bruther Fairbank is delivering nuttin' but da truth!  I would also add the clutch to the list of suspects.



#7 electro_doc

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 06:58 PM

The gear case could cause both these problems (I think) but I don't think that is what's going on.  I would take off the washer body and by pass the lid switch and watch and see what is really going on.  I think taking out the agitator is a good idea and it may have a stripped out spline that is not grabbing the transmission shaft.  The clutch could be slipping and if it is you can see that when you take the washer apart.   It's relatively easy to take off the washer body and then you can observe what is going on.  Can you stop the agitator with your hands when it is agitating.  Is there any play in the washer tub, from side to side.  Can you move it at all.  You could if the drive block wasn't engaged to the spin tube.  You need to do a little more investigation before you go ordering a bunch of parts.

 

Doc



#8 part-time spinner

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 07:02 PM

Didn't think about brakes. Thanks for the troubleshooting tip. I will let you know what I find when I take the agitator off and see what's moving with what.



#9 part-time spinner

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 07:11 PM

Doc, I would have to make the little wire thing in order to bypass the lid switch on this one, can't use the screwdriver trick, so I haven't been able to get a look inside. I would love to see if the clutch is spinning and I would like to see if I can stop the agitator while it's running, but have to make a jumper for the lid switch in order to do it. I have a load in there right now. My mother wants to get some needed clothes through before I go messing with it too much and it's out of commission for a while. I also want to see it through the cycles and see exactly what is happening and when...with the clothes in it.



#10 electro_doc

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 07:50 PM

I think on the left and right sides for the washer console there is a white plastic piece.  In back of the plastic piece in a little hole at the bottom on the side is a screw.  Loosen this screw out until the console will slide forward.  Do this to both sides and slide it forward and lift the front up and it should rotate up and back and stay there.  You can then unplug the disconnect on the switch and put a little wire in the plug to bypass it.  Then you can run the washer and see what is really going on.  When you get the console up you can see the two clips that hold the body to the back of the machine.  If you take them loose you can rotate the body forward and up and take it completely off.  This will allow you to see everything working or not working and allow you to isolate the problem.

You will need space to remove the cover but if you can do this it will make diagnosis a lot easier.

 

Doc



#11 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 10 March 2014 - 06:57 AM

Easy way to bypass the lid switch on this style is to lift console as described by Electro-Doc, then instead of trying to miss with or jump the lid switch.  

 

Just remove the 5/16" screw holding the ground wire in place, lift the lid so end of hinge is disengaged from lid switch then un-clip lid switch from washer body, (it just has a plastic press tab that releases it), and stick a screw in the between the black slide piece and gray body of the switch, just like if the lid hinge end was in the correct slot, tuck switch up out of the way between other wiring in console.


William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 March 2014 - 10:37 AM

Drive block Part number: AP2905773

Part number: AP2905773

 

Basket drive and brake Part number: AP3094539

Part number: AP3094539

 

Clutch kit Part number: AP3094537

Part number: AP3094537







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