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Maytag washing machine clicking on spin (w/video)

Maytag Amana noise

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10 replies to this topic

#1 parnelli-old

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Posted 13 March 2014 - 11:47 AM

It's been about 5 years since my SAV5710AWW has broken- every time I go in there I expect to see the dreaded seal leak but so far so good and no water.

 

Now it's developed a click click click during spin cycle.  The springs are original but not broken.  I don't see white shavings or anything else out of the ordinary.  All parts except the brake pads are original and ten years old.

 

There is a post from a few years ago on this dreaded model where Samurai said that if it sounded like a machine gun that it was the helix.

http://appliantology...v5710aww-noise/

 

Thing is, I don't think that mine sounds like a machine gun.

 

Could you wise masters take a listen on this youtube video?  It's only 40 seconds.

 

The washer is empty in this video.

 

The cabinet is perfectly level side to side (but the front is a tiny tiny amount lower than the back)

 

I hope it's not the bearing- Oh how I hope it's not the bearing.



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#2 Scottthewolf

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Posted 13 March 2014 - 11:54 AM

It sounds like a flat spot in the belt or a piece of the plastic idler (belt tensioner) pulley is broken.

It could also be a worn brake assembly.

The good news is that it is NOT the triple lip seal/tub bearing assembly.

Edited by Scottthewolf, 13 March 2014 - 11:54 AM.

Scott Wolf

#3 -Mike-

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Posted 13 March 2014 - 05:29 PM

Sounds to me like something caught between the tubs. Look at all the holes on the inner tub and see if you see something stuck in one of the holes.



#4 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 05:24 AM

I'm pretty sure that's a worn out belt or a chunk out of the belt.

 

It sounds like the idler pulley arm stop hitting the metal motor mounting pad, when it starts spinning and making the noise push the end of the idler pulley arm that the spring is attached to slightly to the left, (stretching the spring a little to make sure the arm stop isn't hitting the motor mounting stop point).

 

Also check to make sure the idler pulley is still turning freely on it's shaft and that there are not cracked or missing spots on the belt, (if you determine the idler stop is hitting the stop point as instructed above you will still need a new belt - it's worn out not putting enough tension on the idler pulley to keep the stop away from the stop point on the motor mounting bracket).


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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 08:38 AM

Belt Part number: AP4034872

Part number: AP4034872

 

Idler Part number: AP4048267

Part number: AP4048267



#6 parnelli-old

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 03:42 PM

Well.  That's confusing.  I pulled and visually checked the idler, pully and belt.  They look ok.  But you guys are thinking that's the problem.

 

I couldn't find anything in between the tubs, and the brake pads are in one piece but that's about all I can tell.

 

Another thing I noted before I pulled the parts was that the darn thing acts way off balance even when empty.  The cabinet was perfectly level but the washer would start to walk across the floor.

 

The only thing I saw that looked unusual was sust like brakepad dust but it was on top of the lower (?) bearing.  The one under the transmission. Couldn't figure out where it came from.

 

I suppose I'll go ahead and order those parts if you all still think that's it.



#7 Scottthewolf

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 04:07 PM

A cracked milk stool or base will cause the machine to walk across the floor as well as make the machine make strange noises.  When I was with Maytag Factory Service all of us technicians in our area were replacing parts on a machine like this, until we discovered a cracked milk stool.


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#8 parnelli-old

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 01:44 PM

A cracked milk stool or base will cause the machine to walk across the floor as well as make the machine make strange noises.  When I was with Maytag Factory Service all of us technicians in our area were replacing parts on a machine like this, until we discovered a cracked milk stool.

 

A followup-

 

It's time for me to eat my hat... upon better inspection the belt does have a small tear/nick on it so that's getting replaced.

 

But with Scottthewolf's post I figured I'd pull the springs and flip her over.  The milk stool DOES have hairline cracks where two of the three legs get welded to the bottom.  Maybe half inch long- two where one leg attaches and one where the other leg attaches.  This is the worst of the three.  I hit it with a dremel to make sure it wasn't just the paint cracked.

 

edit?usp=sharing

 

The milk stool is like 175 bucks or so.  I'll replace it if it will make a difference, but I'd hate to just throw money at this thing if I don't need to.

 

So do ya'll think that I should just stick with the belt and pulley alone, or do the milk stool also?



#9 parnelli-old

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 02:19 PM

That picture obviously didn't work.  Let's try that again.

 

Cpxj7NM.jpg



#10 Scottthewolf

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 05:10 PM

Try the belt and pulley first, if it still does it, order the milkstool if you like the machine, otherwise you may want to just go buy a new one.
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#11 MicaBay

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Posted 20 March 2014 - 08:56 PM

Try the belt and pulley first, if it still does it, order the milkstool if you like the machine, otherwise you may want to just go buy a new one.

I really like using this kind of logic when people are on the fence.  They tend to do the whole repair when you clearly are trying to save them some money.   







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Maytag, Amana, noise

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