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maytag LDE412 heating element stays on


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12 replies to this topic

#1 kandpand

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 10:55 PM

I have a Maytag LDE 412 dryer that  was burning the wire that goes from the high limit switch to the heating element. I have now discovered that the heating element comes on as soon as you turn the breaker on no matter where the timer switch is at or if the dryer door is open or not.I assume the the element staying on was burning the wire? What is causing the element to stay on constantly?

 

Thanks



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#2 electro_doc

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 11:20 PM

I can't get that model number to come up but I'm thinking it could be the motor switch stuck in the closed position.  This could allow power to the element even if the motor isn't running.  Try taking the red wires off the motor switch and testing for continuity.  Be sure you have the power off when you do this.

 

Doc



#3 Scottthewolf

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Posted 14 March 2014 - 11:40 PM

A grounded heater element as well as a bad thermal fuse will do this.  I have had a few dryers where this has happened where it has been the thermal fuse on the blower housing.


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#4 MA tech.

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 07:55 AM

Grounded heater. Remove wire from heater and check for a circuit to ground with an ohm meter.



#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 08:58 AM

Heater assembly Part number: AP4290655

Part number: AP4290655



#6 kandpand

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 11:44 AM

I took the dryer apart and checked the heating element and can - no problems

Checked the thermal fuse again no problem

Turns out to be the switch on the motor which has a stuck contact. Maytag part number 306207 which has been discontinued. Anyone know where I could find this switch?

 

Thanks



#7 electro_doc

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 12:01 PM

One thing I did once on a GE dryer with a bad motor switch is to install a contactor.  I figured out how to wire it so it made contact when the motor got power and I wired the heater wires to it to send power to the heater when the contator made contact.  I used one like they use in air conditioning units, available at electric supply stores.  They have them either 110 or 220 depending on how you figure out how to wire it.  This worked for me, maybe it could work for you.

 

Doc



#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 12:46 PM

 

Turns out to be the switch on the motor which has a stuck contact. Maytag part number 306207 which has been discontinued. Anyone know where I could find this switch?

 

 

 

 

No but here's the motor Part number: AP5272724

Part number: AP5272724

 

Sometimes, the pulley gets stuck on the shaft.  try removing it off your motor before you order just the motor.  If the pulley is stuck on there, just buy a replacement  Part number: AP4373088

Part number: AP4373088

 

and the pulley set screw Part number: AP4284218

Part number: AP4284218



#9 electro_doc

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 01:02 PM

sorry Samurai:  I thought it was the motor he couldn't get, not the switch.  On the old GE dryer I rigged up the relay to, I couldn't get the motor.  I would also recommend getting the new motor.  Sometimes I have to rig stuff, being in Costa Rica parts are at times hard to obtain.  Glad you found the problem,  good job.

 

Doc



#10 fairbank56

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 01:38 PM

  I think you have some other problem going on there as well. A stuck motor switch alone will not cause this problem. Having power to one side of the heater element will not cause current flow unless the coil is grounded, the timer is bad (timer must be off but you said it didn't matter where it was set) , or the wiring between heater coil L1 side and timer is grounded somewhere.

 

Eric



#11 electro_doc

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 01:46 PM

If the timer is on and the motor switch is bad, would this cause it to stay on?  Also it it on and red hot or just warm?

 

Doc



#12 fairbank56

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 03:48 PM

  Yes, if timer is on and motor switch is stuck closed, then you will have 240vac across the heater coil. OP said didn't matter what position timer was in so assume that includes OFF position. With timer off and motor switch stuck closed, you will not have power across the coil unless you have some other malfunction.

 

Eric



#13 electro_doc

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 04:07 PM

  Yes, if timer is on and motor switch is stuck closed, then you will have 240vac across the heater coil. OP said didn't matter what position timer was in so assume that includes OFF position. With timer off and motor switch stuck closed, you will not have power across the coil unless you have some other malfunction.

 

Eric

gotcha!  Thanks Eric!






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