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Maytag Washer MVWC300XW won't fill


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20 replies to this topic

#1 Tampa Patty

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 02:37 PM

My washer has been running perfectly since I took your advice and bought a used direct-drive Whirlpool last year.

But, as I eagerly awaited the inevitable motor coupler meltdown, I had a lapse in judgment.

I volunteered to fix a friend's washer. 

 

This note is about that washer, a two-year-old Maytag MVWC300XW.

Her initial problem was that it wouldn't drain. A repairman told her she needed a new control board.

She bought the control board.

I installed it today.

But now the washer won't even fill.

The sensing light comes on. The door locks. I hear a periodic clicking noise. But nothing happens.

 

Instructions said to calibrate it. All new to me. I followed the instructions attempting to get it into "diagnostic mode" -- L-R-R-R-L-R -- but it wouldn't go into diagnostic mode.

 

How did this go wrong?

 

Patty

 

 



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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 04:39 PM

Hi Patty, so nice to see you again!  

 

Sadly, it sounds like your friend was the victim of a parts changing monkey who was utterly, utterly clueless about how to troubleshoot this machine so, like a good parts changing monkey, he dropped backed and punted, "Golly, must be the control board."  

 

I love these machines because they are so easy to work on and they practically troubleshoot themselves if you know how to talk to the control board to retrieve the error codes.

 

For a no-drain problem in this washer, the control board is actually the least likely problem component. The control board has an LED light on it which indicates whether or not the board is functioning. This is a simple, visual check that he could've made but probably did not. 

 

A no-drain problem in these machines is usually caused by something simple such as panties stuck in the drain pump. Another easy test to do would have been to measure for 120 V AC at the drain pump when the washer should have been pumping out.

 

Hopefully, she purchased the control board from an online vendor such as Appliancepartspros.com which allow you to return any part for any reason for one year, Including electrical parts that have already been installed. If so, this is good because she's only out for the shipping both ways. 

 

At this point, I would like you to install the old control module back into the washer control panel.   Check for the LED light to make sure that it comes on. And then put the control into diagnostic mode following along with the procedure shown in the video below. Your objective is to retrieve the fault codes stored in the control.

 

 

If on the off chance the old control board really and truly turns out to be bad, then reinstall the new control board and repeat the procedure of putting it into diagnostic mode so that you can run the calibration cycle.

 

Keep us posted on how your progress!



#3 Tampa Patty

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 10:31 PM

Nice to see you, too !

I will reinstall the old board and look for the tech sheet.

But I'm confused about something.

Shouldn't the *new* board be letting me put it in diagnostic mode?

We tried the LRRRLR sequence a few more times and could never get all the lights to flash at once.  But one time, the SPIN and LID LOCKED lights came on. I unplugged the machine and tried again, and the SENSING and LID LOCK lights came on.

Meanwhile, at some point a small amount of water made its way into the tub. But nothing else happened.



#4 Applianceman97

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 11:33 PM

Did the new board come from amazon or eBay?
Just-in TIme Logo.jpg

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#5 Tampa Patty

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 11:57 PM

No, it came from an appliance parts store in Tampa. Unfortunately a no-refund kind of store. 



#6 Applianceman97

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 12:37 AM

That's weird that it won't go into diagnostics. I have had a few of these machines be very sensitive about how fast you turn the know lrrrlr. Try slowing down or speeding up that entry process.
Just-in TIme Logo.jpg

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 12:40 AM

Sounds like the new board is bad out if the box. Should at least be able to exchange it. A board that won't go into diagnostic mode is bad by definition. This is should be covered by part warranty.

Also try entering diagnostic mode on old board to rule out entry technique error. The timing is critical. They really do mean half second between each knob turn!

#8 Tampa Patty

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 12:44 PM

Samurai,
Both boards have green LED lights. The new board wouldn't let us go into diagnostic mode. But the old board would. On the old board, we get a code of F7 E5, which apparently relates to the mode shifter. Should we just put in a new mode shifter? Thanks so much.
Samurai,
Both boards have green LED lights. The new board wouldn't let us go into diagnostic mode. But the old board would. On the old board, we get a code of F7 E5, which apparently relates to the mode shifter. Should we just put in a new mode shifter? Thanks so much.
Samurai,
Both boards have green LED lights. The new board wouldn't let us go into diagnostic mode. But the old board would. On the old board, we get a code of F7 E5, which apparently relates to the mode shifter. Should we just put in a new mode shifter? Thanks so much.
Whoops. Not sure why you got that three times. Maybe my brains control board is bad. :-)

#9 Applianceman97

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 02:53 PM

Mode shifter is a common problem with these machines. I would still get a new board. The one you bought still sounds like it's bad. The green led doesn't always mean the board is good. I would exchange it for a new one and they install a mode shifter.
Just-in TIme Logo.jpg

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 03:08 PM

The new board is bad out of the box.  Take it back to the vendor and get your money back.  Don't accept any excuses-- he can get his money back from his distributer.  It happens.  

 

You need to replace the mode shifter Part number: AP4514409

Part number: AP4514409



#11 Tampa Patty

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 03:15 PM

I brought the old mode shifter home from my friend's house. Would a multimeter prove that it's bad? If so, which of the seven pins should I test?



#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 03:16 PM

It's usually the optical sensor portion of the shifter assembly that goes bad.  This training video has great illustrative details on how to test for that:  Whirlpool VM Washer F7E1 Service Pointer and Training Video PDF and MP4



#13 Tampa Patty

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 03:22 PM

Thanks. This will be such a happy tale if my very deserving friend gets her washer fixed for a $45 part instead of a $400 part/service call.



#14 Tampa Patty

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 09:39 PM

The parts shop will try to get the (bad) new control board replaced but won't refund the money.

Of course they didn't believe it was really bad. I had to listen to them tell me I was "not a technician."  I had to politely agree -- and then tell them I've rebuilt two Whirlpool clutches, replaced numerous motor couplers and lid switches, changed the dryer belt and thermal fuses, replaced the igniter in my gas oven and the thermostat on my refrigerator, and so maybe I''m capable of turning a control knob six times to put it in diagnostic mode.

I asked if they would at least refund the retail markup on the part. (FSP W10438123, sold for $260 including tax, wonder what the wholesale price on that is....)

Store owner said markup was only $25 (hmmm) but offered instead to sell us the new shifter at wholesale, $30, and -- when I pointed out that I'm making nothing on this repair and my friend lives on Social Security -- he ultimately decided to just give us the shifter for free, which was nice.

It's not his fault that a repairman told my friend she needed the wrong part (control board) but surely, someone else would have come along to buy the *replaced* control board, which I assume will be in a new box, all wrapped up and untouched. 

MORAL OF THIS STORY: Buy electrical parts someplace where they are returnable, like online. It's a pain to wait for the package to come in the mail but that's what laundromats are for.



#15 john63

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 09:56 PM

<<<I asked if they would at least refund the retail markup on the part. (FSP W10438123, sold for $260 including tax, wonder what the wholesale price on that is....). >>>

 

**********

 

If I ordered that part through Marcone (as a servicer)---it'd be $178.00 plus a $35.00 refundable core charge (an expensive part---compared to others).


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 09:59 PM

Is the washer running now?



#17 Tampa Patty

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 10:02 PM

I have to work all week, so it'll be Saturday before we know. But you are ALWAYS right. I have faith.



#18 Tampa Patty

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 10:43 PM

John63, thanks for letting me know that. I know these guys have to pay overhead.

#19 Tampa Patty

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Posted 29 March 2014 - 12:01 PM

Hurray.THANK YOU AGAIN. The mode shifter did the trick. The washer made it through an entire cycle.  The only question now is whether my friend should take a loss on the new control board by selling it online -- or -- keep it for the eventual day the old one dies. The washer is two years old. It is kept in a covered but un-airconditioned shed in Florida, if climate is a consideration.



#20 electro_doc

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Posted 29 March 2014 - 12:33 PM

Awesome story, thanks for sharing!  Appliance Parts Pros can usually get you the part in a couple days.  Moral of the story, next time have your friend call you first.  Way to go

 

Doc


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 29 March 2014 - 12:35 PM.





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