Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

GE Profile Double Oven - Need Help Determining Model # and Diagnosing Self-Clean Issue

GE Profile Self-Cleaning Powe

  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 dnspade

dnspade

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Yamazaki 12 yr

Posted 23 March 2014 - 10:41 PM

I have a double oven GE Profile, the cavity measuring about 24" wide.  The original problem is that the lower unit does not self-clean (yes, I know, don't self-clean!).  I am going to sell the house and do not want any exceptions.  I have gone to troubleshoot the fact that it does not enter the cycle ("door", beeps).  I am trying to determine whether it is the lock mechanism or the control board.

 

Problem is I can't find my documentation (manuals or schematics) in order to diagnose.  Called GE and it turns out that it was never registered and apparently they aren't equipped with product family histories or trees.  This unit was likely manufactured in early-mid 2001 as it was installed in August 2001.  The tag itself is obliterated on both the s/n and model number

Does anyone have a product family history that could give me a reasonable guess as to the model number that I could compare against the illegible sticker and see if maybe they correspond? 

Lacking that, anyone familiar enough with the locking mechanisms to know which  wires / pin-outs I need to verify voltage on?  I would like to avoid buying a non-refundable $400 power module!



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 -Mike-

-Mike-

    Kohai

  • Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 338 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:diet Pepsi

Posted 24 March 2014 - 12:31 AM

Is "door" flashing on the display? I believe that means the oven thinks the door is open. You may have a door switch problem.



#3 dnspade

dnspade

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Yamazaki 12 yr

Posted 24 March 2014 - 08:22 AM

It's been a couple of weeks since I started the teardown and troubleshoot, but I think the door switch (black plunger upper side) works because the oven cooks normally and the light turns on/off.  This focused my suspicions on the door lock itself, which has a couple of indicator switches and a small motor drive.  Switches on the lock appear to behaving normally.  Motor itself doesn't seem to get power when I hold the door plunger shut and try to engage the self-cleaning mode, but I'm not sure I'm looking at the right wires lacking the schematic.  Also, the motor itself does not turn by hand, but not sure that I'd be able to turn it.



#4 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,564 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 24 March 2014 - 10:35 AM

Check the motor rating on the lock. If it is 110vac, you can test it using a 120v cheater cord.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#5 dnspade

dnspade

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Yamazaki 12 yr

Posted 24 March 2014 - 01:59 PM

Thx - was surprised but it is a 110vac motor (assumed it was 24v) but (sorry for the ignorance) what is a 120v cheater cord?



#6 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,564 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 24 March 2014 - 02:05 PM

basically a lamp cord or any cord you can plug in a standard outlet. Connect the hot and neutral lines to the lock motor and plug the cord in. It should operate it. You can get fancy and add connectors on the cord and an on/off switch if you like.

For a few bucks you can get a lamp cord with a rotary switch from any hardware store http://www.amazon.co...words=lamp cord

Dying by electrocution has even been deemed cruel and unusual punishment for hardened criminals. So be careful.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 24 March 2014 - 02:09 PM.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,031 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 24 March 2014 - 02:31 PM

Some troubleshooting tips from fixing a door lock problem on a different range, but the same principles apply to all ranges using an electric door lock:

 






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics