Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

dnspade

GE Profile Double Oven - Need Help Determining Model # and Diagnosing Self-Clean Issue

7 posts in this topic

I have a double oven GE Profile, the cavity measuring about 24" wide.  The original problem is that the lower unit does not self-clean (yes, I know, don't self-clean!).  I am going to sell the house and do not want any exceptions.  I have gone to troubleshoot the fact that it does not enter the cycle ("door", beeps).  I am trying to determine whether it is the lock mechanism or the control board.

 

Problem is I can't find my documentation (manuals or schematics) in order to diagnose.  Called GE and it turns out that it was never registered and apparently they aren't equipped with product family histories or trees.  This unit was likely manufactured in early-mid 2001 as it was installed in August 2001.  The tag itself is obliterated on both the s/n and model number

Does anyone have a product family history that could give me a reasonable guess as to the model number that I could compare against the illegible sticker and see if maybe they correspond? 

Lacking that, anyone familiar enough with the locking mechanisms to know which  wires / pin-outs I need to verify voltage on?  I would like to avoid buying a non-refundable $400 power module!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Is "door" flashing on the display? I believe that means the oven thinks the door is open. You may have a door switch problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's been a couple of weeks since I started the teardown and troubleshoot, but I think the door switch (black plunger upper side) works because the oven cooks normally and the light turns on/off.  This focused my suspicions on the door lock itself, which has a couple of indicator switches and a small motor drive.  Switches on the lock appear to behaving normally.  Motor itself doesn't seem to get power when I hold the door plunger shut and try to engage the self-cleaning mode, but I'm not sure I'm looking at the right wires lacking the schematic.  Also, the motor itself does not turn by hand, but not sure that I'd be able to turn it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the motor rating on the lock. If it is 110vac, you can test it using a 120v cheater cord.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thx - was surprised but it is a 110vac motor (assumed it was 24v) but (sorry for the ignorance) what is a 120v cheater cord?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

basically a lamp cord or any cord you can plug in a standard outlet. Connect the hot and neutral lines to the lock motor and plug the cord in. It should operate it. You can get fancy and add connectors on the cord and an on/off switch if you like.

For a few bucks you can get a lamp cord with a rotary switch from any hardware store http://www.amazon.com/Lamp-Rotary-Switch-Plug--Black/dp/B00EJNUY5U/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1395687858&sr=8-25&keywords=lamp+cord

Dying by electrocution has even been deemed cruel and unusual punishment for hardened criminals. So be careful.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some troubleshooting tips from fixing a door lock problem on a different range, but the same principles apply to all ranges using an electric door lock:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites