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Maytag Epic Dryer turns on, controls work, beeps, but no go?


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30 replies to this topic

#1 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 08:23 PM

I initially found this article when searching for solutions to this problem:  http://fixitnow.com/...-lit-but-no-go/

 

and I thought right on, that's it!

 

I even tested the thermistor and it was open, good deal I say and order that as well as a new thermal fuse for good measure. WRONG! So the new thermal fuse and thermistor are in but the dryer still does this:

 

Comes on, all the controls work, cycle nob, buttons, etc. push start and beep, light beside sensing for the start of the cycle and nothing. HMMMMM?????

 

Please help, I'm about out of beer trying to figure this out.

 

Model number:  MED9800TQ0

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 



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#2 john63

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 08:32 PM

How's the Drum Belt?

 

Many dryers have a broken-belt-switch (powers up but no start)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 08:39 PM

The belt is around the drum and doesn't seem to be broken, how do I tell for sure and belt switch, where is it???



#4 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 08:59 PM

To make sure I am doing this right I'm setting my tester to 20K Ohms and holding one tester wire on each prong, if the switch is good I get a reading of zero correct? Both my thermal fuse's (old and new) go to zero. Both of my Thermistor's (old and new) read about 12.8. So, did the appliance parts pros send me a bad thermistor?

 

Thanks again.



#5 jbeckman713

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 09:04 PM

Check the thermal cutoff and high limit on the heater assembly. Part number: AP3094323

Part number: AP3094323


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 31 March 2014 - 05:59 PM.


#6 jbeckman713

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 09:08 PM

Check to make sure you have 120v on L1 and L2. If you don't you know if it is the control or motor side.



#7 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 09:22 PM

Sorry but you are talking above my head (doesn't take much when it comes to this stuff  :wacko: ) L1 and L2? 



#8 jbeckman713

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 09:25 PM

The power coming in from your wall outlet. Check at the outlet and at the dyer foe 120v on each side so you know your getting the 240v needed. Also check your breaker and make sure one side is not tripped.


Edited by jbeckman713, 26 March 2014 - 09:27 PM.


#9 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 09:27 PM

I am also just now finding out I am really a novice, thermistor isn't a switch - holy crap, why didn't I check into this before I ordered two parts I don't need  :unsure:



#10 jbeckman713

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 09:29 PM

Just part of the learning process.  :rocker:



#11 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 09:38 PM

I have a three pronger. When I put the voltage detector to the outlet I get a beep and lights on the left side but not the right side - facing the wall plug

(the L shaped part is at the top and I have no clue if that matters but I thought I would tell you)



#12 jbeckman713

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 09:45 PM

From the center prong you should have 120v to each of the two outer prongs. If you measure the two outer prongs together it should equal 240v.


Reset your breaker also



#13 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 09:57 PM

Yep, everything checked out OK. Sorry it took me so long, wanted to make sure I did it correctly. You probably went to bed  :whistling:



#14 jbeckman713

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 10:06 PM

So you have the correct power and replaced the thermal fuse on the blower housing and the thermal cutoff on the heater housing. Correct?


Next check the door switch.



#15 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 10:09 PM

OK, one quick thing (assumption on my part) on the door switch. The light turns on and off when the door is open and shut - I assumed the switch is working is that a bad assumption?



#16 jbeckman713

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 10:11 PM

So the light is off when you shut the door? How do you know that?



#17 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 10:14 PM

The light in the dryer kicks on when the door is opened and goes off when I shut the door - I'm not sure I understand your question?



#18 jbeckman713

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 10:17 PM

Just messin with ya....If you have the door shut how do you know the light is off? Get it? :woot:


I would still check continuity of the door switch



#19 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 10:20 PM

You're killing me - LOL. I thought, what the hell am I missing. OK, I'll go check it.



#20 selwaycj

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Posted 26 March 2014 - 10:27 PM

trying to get it out without breaking it.






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