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selwaycj

Maytag Epic Dryer turns on, controls work, beeps, but no go?

31 posts in this topic

I initially found this article when searching for solutions to this problem:  http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/10/01/whirlpool-duet-electric-dryer-sensing-light-lit-but-no-go/

 

and I thought right on, that's it!

 

I even tested the thermistor and it was open, good deal I say and order that as well as a new thermal fuse for good measure. WRONG! So the new thermal fuse and thermistor are in but the dryer still does this:

 

Comes on, all the controls work, cycle nob, buttons, etc. push start and beep, light beside sensing for the start of the cycle and nothing. HMMMMM?????

 

Please help, I'm about out of beer trying to figure this out.

 

Model number:  MED9800TQ0

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

How's the Drum Belt?

 

Many dryers have a broken-belt-switch (powers up but no start)

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The belt is around the drum and doesn't seem to be broken, how do I tell for sure and belt switch, where is it???

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To make sure I am doing this right I'm setting my tester to 20K Ohms and holding one tester wire on each prong, if the switch is good I get a reading of zero correct? Both my thermal fuse's (old and new) go to zero. Both of my Thermistor's (old and new) read about 12.8. So, did the appliance parts pros send me a bad thermistor?

 

Thanks again.

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Check the thermal cutoff and high limit on the heater assembly. Part number: AP3094323

Part number: AP3094323

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Check to make sure you have 120v on L1 and L2. If you don't you know if it is the control or motor side.

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Sorry but you are talking above my head (doesn't take much when it comes to this stuff  :wacko: ) L1 and L2? 

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The power coming in from your wall outlet. Check at the outlet and at the dyer foe 120v on each side so you know your getting the 240v needed. Also check your breaker and make sure one side is not tripped.

Edited by jbeckman713

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I am also just now finding out I am really a novice, thermistor isn't a switch - holy crap, why didn't I check into this before I ordered two parts I don't need  :unsure:

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Just part of the learning process.  :rocker:

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I have a three pronger. When I put the voltage detector to the outlet I get a beep and lights on the left side but not the right side - facing the wall plug

(the L shaped part is at the top and I have no clue if that matters but I thought I would tell you)

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From the center prong you should have 120v to each of the two outer prongs. If you measure the two outer prongs together it should equal 240v.


Reset your breaker also

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Yep, everything checked out OK. Sorry it took me so long, wanted to make sure I did it correctly. You probably went to bed  :whistling:

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So you have the correct power and replaced the thermal fuse on the blower housing and the thermal cutoff on the heater housing. Correct?


Next check the door switch.

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OK, one quick thing (assumption on my part) on the door switch. The light turns on and off when the door is open and shut - I assumed the switch is working is that a bad assumption?

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So the light is off when you shut the door? How do you know that?

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The light in the dryer kicks on when the door is opened and goes off when I shut the door - I'm not sure I understand your question?

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Just messin with ya....If you have the door shut how do you know the light is off? Get it? :woot:


I would still check continuity of the door switch

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You're killing me - LOL. I thought, what the hell am I missing. OK, I'll go check it.

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trying to get it out without breaking it.

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Takes a PhD to get that thing out without breaking it. The good news: I found the electric control panel. The bad news: I still haven't got the switch disconnected and I'm getting tired and cranky. I'll try again tomorrow with a fresh start.

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If you have the correct power, thermal fuse,  thermal cutoff, belt switch and door switch are testing ok you need a tech to come and run some tests with your control board to determine if a new one is necessary. 

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sounds like a bad motor relay to me, put your meter across the blue and black wires on the 2 pin connector on the main board, when the dryer is not "running" you should see 120v when your "start" the dryer it should drop to 0, if it dosent drop the relay is bad and u need a new main control

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Thanks for the continued help! I will follow your advice and troubleshoot after work again tonight, not giving up!

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