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LG LFX25960ST Refrigerator Water & Ice Dispenser Not Working

10 posts in this topic

I have a seven year old LG LFX25960ST "French Door" type Refrigerator with an ice & water dispenser built into the left side door.  A few months ago the water and ice dispenser began to slow down which changing the filter did not improve.  Eventually both water and ice stopped working entirtely.  The ice maker assembly's Cube Size Indicator Lights, which also provide error codes in Test Mode, do not work and it is very likely that the assembly is not getting power, as it make no noise when the dispenser button is pressed and does not respond to forced function test (holding down the Fill Key for 3 seconds should make it start the ice-making process). 

 

I do know that water with good pressure is getting to the refrigerator but I'm uncertain about the condition of the Water Inlet Valve.  The current (original) water inlet valve, part #: 5220JB2009A, has a dual solenoid fed by two pairs of wires.  The Blue & Purple pair carry a constant 14.9 volts AC while the Blue & Red pair carry nearly constant 44.5 volts AC which seems to be momentarily interrupted when the door's water dispenser switch is pressed.  Does this seem be correct?  The valve is is rated for 110-127 Vac. 

 

My deepest thanks to anyone who can send me i the right direction before this thing drives me crazy.

 

- Gerry

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Is it still making ice?

 

Check the microswitch at the dispenser, check for voltage at the dispenser board.

 

If you don't hear any buzzing or humming when you press the paddle at the dispenser, I would rule out that it's the water valves that are at fault.

Edited by Scottthewolf

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fact pattern

1) both ice and water affected

2) gradually slowed until stopped

3) water pressure to valve fine

I would check water to see if water is leaving the valve going into the filter, then check to the line to see if water comes out of the filter. You could have a frozen or bad water filter housing

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Thanks for the quick answers to my questions.
For what it's worth, I removed the water filter and it does appear that it receives water.  While I was at it I also removed the water inlet valve (it's super easy to do).  Now that I have it sitting on my desk, is there there a way to test it before I put it back where it belongs?  I have read about a continuity test, which the valve failed, but I don't trust it as a new valve also failed the same test. 

The refrigerator's original water inlet valve is the 5220JB2009A, which is no longer being manufactured.  Most parts stores recommend the AJU72992601 as its substitute but I don't think it is a proper replacement.   The 5220JB2009A has a dual solenoid while the AJU72992601 has a single solenoid and water sensor.  LG customer service now says the official substitute is the 5221JB2006K, which has major wiring and water differences from the 5220JB2009A.   In short, I hope the inlet valve is not the problem.

- Gerry

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I forget to mention that the refrigerator is not making ice.  The ice maker is bone dry but, as mentioned, it appears to be dead either because it's broken or because it's not getting power.

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are you sure you are getting water to the water valve.  Both ice maker and water trough the door don't work is an indication you may not be getting water at the intake valve.  Usually both don't fail at the same time.  Durham suggested a couple tests.  They should be done with the water valve connected, sounded like you were testing with the valve un hooked.  You can test the valve by hooking it up directly with a jumper cord.  Put 110 volts right to the valve and see if the solenoids work.  Sounds to me like your testing was incomplete.  Make sure you have water with good pressure coming to the valve.

 

Doc

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Are you able to input commands at the dispenser control?  When cubed ice is selected does the auger motor run when the lever is depressed?  Lack of power to the dispenser or icemaker might indicate an issue with the Main PCB, which has been revised for optimization P/N EBR34917109.

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I apologize for not responding to the suggestions I have received sooner but, as the weather has finally turned spring-like I've taken on some overdue outdoor jobs around the house.  My plan for the refrigerator is to re-install the water inlet valve and power it with a cheater cable as suggested by "electro-doc".  If it seems to work I'll move on to tracing the water line and finally replacing the Main PCB (thanks PDuff).  Tomorrow I'm heading out of town for a while so I doubt I'll get to any of this before the beginning of next month.

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Thanks for the update.  We will be waiting to hear from you when you have time to get back to it.   Start by testing the water valve and making sure you have water leaving the valve when you give it power.  If yes then we can move on to help solve the poroblem, if not then you can look to the valve being bad or the water not getting to the valve.  Do you have water coming out of the line going to the valve when you turn the water on?  Make sure you have good pressure and water to the valve.  Stick with it, we will help you figure this out.  Thanks again for getting back to us. 

 

Doc

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Which water valve are you checking? If I'm not mistaken this model has two. One at the back and one in the door. In my experience if it's not the filter clogged it's probably the rear water valve. Check your water pressure at the valve in the door to find out if you're getting pressure to that point.

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