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pops1986

refrigerator GI5SVAXVL00 Ice maker works, ice and water dispensers do not

28 posts in this topic

Need help from someone that has been there and done that.  As I said, the ice maker works, but the dispensers do not.  They do work in service mode.  The dispenser circuit board is good.  It appears the freezer and fridge sides work normally.  Could the mother circuit board be bad?  If it were a broken wire or bad connection then it should not work in service mode.

Any help appreciated! 

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double check your model number please. There may be another "v" after the "x"

btw, how did you determine the dispenser circuit board is good?

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You are right sir, there is a "v" after the "x."  I had another known good board and tried it.  It made no difference.  The freezer liner door switch turned the light off and on, but, I will ohm it out when I go back.  Thanks

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Model number in topic title edited.

 

In test mode, the main board is controlling the dispenser directly.  Out of test mode, the dispenser board must talk to the main board to do dispensary things like dispense ice or water.  The fact that the dispenser function works in test mode means that: 1) the muthaboard and involved peripherals (water inlet valve in this case) are good.  The fact that is does not dispense in customer mode and that you've replaced the dispenser board already means that the overlay membrane switch is bad, probably a worn-through dispenser button.  

 

Part number: AP4366548

Part number: AP4366548

 

Part number: AP4700560

Part number: AP4700560

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Oh Great One!  The overlay panel does not "look" bad, but beauty is only skin deep indeed.  Thanks for this meaningful insight! 

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You can't tell if it's bad by inspection.  The membrane is sandwiched in the overlay.  IF it's bad (and I stress IF) then you can only tell by using your meter.  One method is to check for open/close change when switch is actuated (pressed).  But since they don't give a pinout matrix for this overlay, you can't do this easily.  A better test would be a live test where you check for a DC voltage change at J1-4 wrt DC GND (J1-1).  From the tech sheet, it looks like +12 VDC is standing at J1-4 all the time (sent from muthaboard) and the switch signals it wants water by grounding out that +12 VDC signal. So you would look for the +12 VDC at J1-4 to go away when  you press the dispenser button.  

 

Maybe not, but that's the way it looks to me.  Let's just say, that's how I would troubleshoot it if I was on the call.

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A followup on my dispenser problem. At the suggestion of testing the dispenser board/touch pad at J1. I did, and just to save some time I tried a known good touchpad. Made no difference. In poring over the schematic, I notice J1-3, 12v, also running up to the "ice fan." I do not claim to be the brightest bulb in interpreting the flow of schematics, so some one try to clue me in. While I was there, I rechecked the continuity of the freezer door switch, dispenser micro switch, checked for 12v at the motherboard, continuity to the connector at the top of the door hinge. !2v seems to be getting to the touchpad, the lights work, buttons work etc. I guess my bottom line question is, could the ice fan be the problem, as I have not looked in that direction at all.

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check the actuator to make sure it is activating the microswitch.  Try activating the microswitch manually if possible,  while the chute assembly is connected. 

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Great thought sir, I checked the microswitch removed and with the actuator. It gave me continuity both ways. The actuator is working correctly.

I also checked the code. It was correct.

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Again, in poring over the schematic, I do not remeber the cavity LED's burning.

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It just doesn't make sense that the ice and water dispenser work in test mode but not normal mode.  I would be looking at what's different between those two modes in terms of how the dispenser functions are actuated.  The touchpad was an obvious one but there must be something else.

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Ok, now I have a schematic in front of me.. looks like there are two microswitches in the chute assembly.. a door motor switch (normally closed and is a different switch from the freezer door/light switch... ) and a main actuator switch (normally open) did you test them both and did continuity change when you pressed the button? Change of continuity status is more important than having continuity if you are unsure of the normal position.

I wonder if that door motor switch, which I assume is the ice chute door motor, is open, would it prevent dispenser functions but overridden when diagnostic tests are performed? At least that is something to check

What diagnostic tests did you perform and tell us your procedure and the results?

Here is the tech sheet for those willing to sing along with us and maybe perform a lead solo or two http://appliantology.org/files/file/1489-kitchenaid-refrigerator-kfis25xv-tech-sheet-and-parts-list/

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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The Ice/Water lockout feature on this refrigerator may be the problem. Looking at the schematic, I do not see how this feature works. I understand what it does for the consumer, but not what actually happens to kill the water and ice dispensers when the button is pushed. Thx for your insight!

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It just doesn't make sense that the ice and water dispenser work in test mode but not normal mode.  I would be looking at what's different between those two modes in terms of how the dispenser functions are actuated.  The touchpad was an obvious one but there must be something else.

I've had a few Frigidaire refrigerators work in test mode, but not in normal mode. Because they were all under first year warranty I replaced all the boards and it solved the problem.

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Interesting post Scott, if that has indeed worked on refrigerators you have encountered, then it may be the only course of action. This particular model is not under warranty. I would like to know if the dispenser lock mechanism in internal to the motherboard so I could rule it out.

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Color me dimwitted here but please explain to me as if I were 5 years old... I need to know exactly what you mean by "they work in service mode":

 

  • Are you inputting a code that causes them trigger instead of using a glass in the dispenser?
  • Are you putting it in service mode and then shoving a glass in the dispenser like you would normally?
  • Do all functions fail normally but work in service mode? Water, cubed and crushed and door flapper?
Edited by Vets Appliance

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I read above that there are no other symptoms, cooling, icemaker, or otherwise.  And since you can successfully access the diagnostic test mode, the control lock appears to be disengaged.  Barring no problems with the display, then the high voltage board is ok.  Or is it?  Also check the door switch for proper actuation.

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I removed the freezer liner door switch and checked continuity. It works correctly as the switch is opened and closed. Concerning the motherboard (high voltage board), it has 12v feeding the low voltage board, and has no obvious visual problems. I believe I will bite the bullet and swap the hi voltage board out. I will let the forum know soon.

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Vets, I asked the same question but received no response regarding dispenser tests as well as the second microswitch which controls the flapper. Although I am unsure if that second microswitch is easily accessible or simply a part of the ice chute door module. Hopefully the board replacement will solve the problem.

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Vet's and Durham, have not had the opportunity to get back over there: in normal mode no ice or water is dispensed, I hear the door flapper closing when the power is cycled (off/on). In service mode, it will dispense ice and water using a glass to make the switch. Concerning micro switches, the main switch or/wh, has and changes continuity, the actuator works correctly, the door motor, yl/wh, since I hear it closing, have not physically checked. Hope this clears up some of your questios, Thx gentlemen.

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Pops, good info that's what I needed.

 

With the 10942 board swap not making any difference my only thought is that there might be 115VAC being detected at the mainboard J2 Pin 6 (GY/WT) "AC2 FZ Light".

 

Is the door switch being properly depressed when the door is shut? I know the switch checked out when you tested it in your hand but is there any chance that the light is staying on when the door is shut?

 

In test mode the board would ignore the 115 at J2P6 but in normal operation it would disable to dispenser to prevent ice from being dispensed when the door is open... though the flapper might still "flap".

 

Close the door and check for 115 at J2P6 of the mainboard. Other than that, I dunno.

Edited by Vets Appliance

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Vets, what you said makes sense, and would take only a few minutes. I will sure give it s shot.  Also, after more conversation with this customer, it came out they got this refrigerator from a friend, and it was not dispensing when they got it from their friends.  Evidently, it had been into before me for the same problem, and the friend would pay half the repair cost.  Wowser, wowser.  Anyway, I can not let this thing beat me (us).  Will let ya'll know.  Thx 

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Well, chalk up another for 

scotthewolf, the motherboard was the answer!  After picking the brain of another friend, he suggested shunting J4 at pins 2and three.  If I understand correctly, the shunt " loaded" the circuit, and revealed a voltage loss of nearly 4 volts.  With no load my volt ohmmeter read 12.6.   Always something to learn and scratch your head over!

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Way to go, STW!  

 

Muthaboard Part number: AP4568436

Part number: AP4568436

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Wow is right!  I'm not sure I need water trough the door that bad!  Good job figuring it out.

 

Doc

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