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nursingguy

Fisher Paykel GWL10US Washer

6 posts in this topic

Hello All:

 

Ok. Called to look at the above model. I had the service manual in hand as well.

 

Found that upon plugging it in, the machine would continuously beep, would not spin, and no display buttons would respond by lighting up. However 3 LED's were lit up without change the second, third and fifth LED's. Also the machine would not accept commands to enter diagnostic mode. The tub did drain for the customer but will not restart for me. Also since I cannot run diagnostics I cannot provide the binary interpretation from the LED's.

 

I looked at the display and control modules, no burn spots, etc. Measured 120 VAC at control board input.

 

Pushed the spin up arrow button and the red spin LED would light up and I would hear a low buzz from the pump area. Upon tilting the machine back I felt the pump and it was the source of the humming. It was also very warm. I measured approx. 33-35 VAC going to the pump. With this machine I read that it ramps up the 120 AVC to 220-230 VAC. However I am only reading 33-35 VAC to the pump.

 

Prior to selecting the spin option as above stated, I would hear the low hum and the pump was receiving voltage. I think this is because upon plugging in the machine it immediately starts where it previously left off, attempting to drain, to possibly start a spin cycle. It will not restart or accept commands.

 

Will a bad pump cause this much trouble? Is it a board relay as the pump is only receiving 33-35 VAC? Any input, suggestions are welcome. Please respond.

 

Mike

Appliance Repair Las Vegas

 

 

 

 

 

 

Measured approx 30 VAC

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Pretty common problem. When the pump fails it will take out the control. You will find in the replacement pump a fuse assembly to be wired at the board on the line feeding the pump. This will allow the fuse to blow before the board kicks if the pump ever goes locked on you again.

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Thank you for the quick response.

 

So the pump took out the board as well and they both need to be replaced or just the pump needs to be replaced?

 

Respect and thank you,

 

Mike

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Replace both the board and the pump.

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Be sure you get the correct new pump.  GWL10 is a different electrical design than the more common GWL11 and later

 

GWL10 takes a 230v pump (the motor board increases the voltage feed on the pump circuit), part number 420234P (originally was 426956P).  A good pump reads 33 ohms resistance.

 

A failed pump on other models does usually kill the board ... but is that common on GWL10?  Check your pump resistance, it may be OK and your board is what's bad.  May be reasonable to replace them both to be sure.

 

GWL10 replacement pump does not include the retrofit fuse far as I'm aware (I could be wrong on this point).

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I would replace the pump only to begin with and install the inline fuse. Usually the pump leaks and short out which kills the board completely.

In your case the board isn't completely dead so the pump most likely didn't damage it.

I'm betting when you take out the pump you find something stuck in the impeller. I would advise to replace the pump and install the inline fuse anyway.

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