Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Platinum

Toaster Madness! (TRO515TY3)

13 posts in this topic

I hope you're sitting down...

Hi. So, I had contacted the Samurai by phone aeons ago, (I hope he remembers me), but wasn't able to fully explain myself without pictures. I tried taking pix with a regular camera, but it was too fuzzy. So it wasn't until recently that I procured a digital camera and hence can post pix... The story goes like this: I'm a semi-cheap, environmentally-conscious grad student who refuses to throw away a toaster oven (Black & Decker Toast-R-Oven TRO515TY3) simply because a heating element blew out...well, because otherwise it would be sitting in a dump somewhere polluting the planet. I mean, really there's nothing else wrong with it. It doesn't make sense to me that it costs more to fix it than to replace it. So think of this as a lone protest against disposable consumerism. Or something. Anyway, I'm pretty sure it's a heating element because it's visibly fried; the sleek charcoal smoothness is interupted by warping and crispies on the top front element. Proud of my expert diagnosis, I ordered replacements. So now that money has been exchanged...I HAVE TO FIX IT. There's no turning back, despite the fact that I could be doing better things, like working on my thesis.

Next, I set out to do the replacement, but I realized I wasn't sure if I should be soldering or if I should be blow-torching...if that makes any sense....because I don't see any plops of solder connecting anything. And, while I'm at it...how do I break those connections to do the replacement? I have access to solder, flux and a soldering iron. I also have a little TriStar butane pencil torch.

...I also have a fire extinguisher.

I have some pictures, but I'll wait to see if anyone out there might be willing and able to point me in the right direction at this bewildering junction of junctions.

Indebted in advance,

-Pt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

The screwed up economics you've witnessed, where it costs more to fix than to replace, is a result of the incredibly low production costs for manufacturing stuff in China. That's not necessarily a bad thing, it's just the economic reality of the times we live in. But nothing stays the same in this world so this, too, shall pass. Enjoy it while you can.

If you post a photo of the part and the innards of the toaster where the element goes, we may be able to point out some things that'll hepya.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh wow, thanks. Let's see...I have so many pictures. Here's the new part.

post-6284-129045088918_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are two different sides to the element. One has a flattened/grooved middle bit on the connector. (see attached)

post-6284-12904508892_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And the other side of the element is smooth.

post-6284-129045088924_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's one side opened up to show the connections...

post-6284-12904508893_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only 3 more, I swear...

This one shows a close-up of the busted element.

post-6284-12904508895_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a close up of the connection to which my original question pertains...

post-6284-129045088956_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Phew! And lastly, here's another shot of the connection. Not sure which is more clear.

THANKS!!!!

-Pt

post-6284-129045088967_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I'm sure you have diagnosed the problem correctly, the element is diffinitely burnt out.

This isn't going to be anykind of straight forward repair to replace those elements, they are infact spot welded in.

There is a slight chance soldering them back in would work, but I would be concerned about it getting too hot in that area and melting the solder loose.

As far as breaking the old element loose from the spot welds, it's going to be gentle bending back and forth until the spot weld breaks loose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, solder would probably melt. I thought I remember seeing somewhere a nifty tool that was battery powered and handheld that could make mini spotwelds like that. If something like that doesn't exist, then it ought to! I call patent rights. Oh boy, I'll be rich, rich, rich! :bananadance:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I read your posts with interest.  I am trying to do the same thing.  Where did you get the new heating element??? Have you come up with a solution to the spot welds.  FYI: small spot welders are used by companies like Batteries Batteries to spot weld the solder tabs to the top of the battery.  They are called capacitance discharge welders $600 to $1000.  Homemade version see this link: http://www.philpem.me.uk/welder/ 

I hope someone can figure a way to connect these elements. Thanks gpg3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites