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Bosch SHX43C05UC/40 4 Hr Cycle Time


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13 replies to this topic

#1 gofishing

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 01:29 PM

My Bosch SHX43C05UC/40 takes about 4 hours to run through the full cycle. I have clean dishes at the end (I should), the water is heated and is pumping water when I check during the cycle. This long duration cycle time has been going on for a few months and gradualy the duration is getting longer. Any ideas what the cure for the problem is?

Mike



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#2 Spannerwrench

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 02:29 PM

As long as you're sure that it IS in fact heating, then the control is probably OK. I'd replace the heater. They can get caked with calcium and heat still, just very slowly.

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#3 gofishing

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 04:05 PM

After reading some info on this site I read the water temp should be between 140 and 160. The water was warm maybe 100 degress.

As the dishwasher runs for after couple of hours, when I open the door the water is cold and dirty. It does not look to be going into the rinse cycle. Also it is not draining. I cleaned the strainers but it did not change a thing. Restarted a new cyle and the water temp was 90 degress after 5 minuets run time. I ran the hot water to the sink before starting the dishwasher my water temp from the water heater is 140 degrees. It seems like the only thing it does this run the pump.

Low water temp, no rinse, no drain. Just a long recirculation. I rinsed the dishes after I pulled them out to get the dirty water offof them. I think I should have been doing this for the past few months. They look clean but they are just rinsed with soapy funk water.



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 05:41 PM

Some tips on how to test the heating circuit electrically:  How to troubleshoot a Bosch dishwasher that won't finish a cycle, runs forever, or shows 2H in the display



#5 PDuff

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 10:46 AM

Your model doesn't have a display but you may still be able check for any stored fault codes.

 

While pressing any two wash cycle buttons turn the dishwasher on with the main switch.  The coding of the control will be shown with the leds until the buttons are released.  Press the third button until the fourth led is lit.  Press the fourth button to access the fault codes. 

 

Fourth led flashing  =  Heating error

Third led flashing    =  NTC error

Third and fourth leds flashing  =  Filling error

Second and third leds flashing  =  Aquasensor error

 

To exit program, press Off.



#6 gofishing

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 11:06 AM

Thanks PDuff,

I tried the fault codes and got the third flashing light-NTC error. Whats that mean? I also follow Shoguns link to  How to troubleshoot a Bosch dishwasher that won't finish a cycle, runs forever, or shows 2H in the display.

I had no 120 voltage to the red heater wire and no current draw, it said I have a bad control board. Do you agree? I have already ordered the board.



#7 PDuff

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 12:40 PM

Possible, depending on resistance readings of the heater and NTC.  I have had control modules fail, usually stalling around the 1 minute (time remaining) mark.



#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 01:02 PM

No 120 V AC on that red wire from the control board is usually a bad control board Part number: 00676967

Part number: 00676967

 

The only exception would be if the NTC is bad, then it would never tell the board to fire up the heater.  The NTC comes as part of the heater assembly, as long you're going to the trouble to replace the NTC, might as well replace the whole heater assembly Part number: 00480317

Part number: 00480317

 

You can verify the NTC is bad by checking it's resistance.  They fail open.



#9 gofishing

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 01:58 PM

I wiil start with reolacing the board, it should be on it's way. Is there an easy way to ohm out the NTC without removing the dishwasher from the cabnit? Hate to sound like a lazy azz!



#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 03:29 PM

All the tests can be done from the control board wire harness.  You'll need the schematic, which is folded up into an unbelievably small wad and tucked into a crevasse in the drip pan behind the toe panel.



#11 Spannerwrench

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 05:01 PM

Wiring diagram
https://www.dropbox....00000119693.pdf

"Suds are not good"
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"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

"Occam's RAZOR 'the simplest answer is most often correct'"


#12 gofishing

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 06:27 PM

Thanks Guys I ohm'ed the red wire from the control board and white/red on the on/off switch and got an open circuit.The red/white goes to a pressure switch and the red goes through an 85 degree thermostat. looks like I can't take measurements from the front. Looks like I need to remove the DW from the cabinet to gain access to those components.



#13 Spannerwrench

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 07:05 PM

The pressure switch read correctly , there is no water pumping so it isn't going to read that there is. In order to test the NTC you can ohm it out as stated above from the control wiring by reference to the wiring diagram I posted. But in order to do that you would need to know what the resistance should actually be, I don't know off of the top of my head, maybe someone else dies though.

"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

"Occam's RAZOR 'the simplest answer is most often correct'"


#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 07:42 PM

The NTCs fail open so just make sure your meter is on the highest resistance scale (if not an auto ranging meter) and check resistance.  If you get something in the mega-ohms or OL, it's bad. 






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