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Kenmore 417.97822701 dryer won't heat

9 posts in this topic

I have a Kenmore 417.97822701 and the heater won't turn on. The drum activates and spins, timer works, etc, it just won't heat up.

 

This is a sudden thing, (worked monday) and I'm not sure what to replace/fix.

 

I have checked the following things:

Online manual says that if the dryer won't turn on at all it's the temperature regulator - so that's probably not it (which also means the vent hose isn't clogged)

Internet searches tell me to replace the heating element and thermostat - but those are general advice and how-tos for all dryers

this website says to "check the thermal fuse" but it seemed to be on an unrelated topic and if I were to check it, what would I be looking for?

 

I wanted to make sure before I started taking the dryer apart. 

 

with thanks,

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

You could check to make sure you have 220vlts at the dryer plug. 

 

1st check for 220 and get back to us.

 

This is a combo washer and dryer I see.  To test it and work on it is not as easy as some other dryers.  You need to access everything from the front by removing the front and taking out the dryer tub.  We can walk you through this is need be.  Get back after you see about the 220 at the outlet.

 

Doc

Edited by electro_doc

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Doc, The circuit breaker was not tripped and nothing has changed for the house - I suppose I should have said I had the thing for 5 years now (sorry)

 

Why would there be an electricity change at the outlet?

If there has been a change, why would the heater suddenly stop working?

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The dryer will run on 1/2 of the 220.  The 220 is two seperate 110s.  If one of the 110 is out the washer and dryer will do everything they normally do except the dryer needs the other 110 to heat.  The breaker may not look tripped but it is possible that half of it isn't working.  Turn it off and then reset it making sure it is giving you 220.  It is just better to start your repair knowing that you have the correct voltage.  Like I said, that's about the only thing you can check without taking the dryer apart.  It has nothing to do with how long it's been working at this house or anything else other than it is possible that 1/2 of it has tripped.  What does it hurt to check that first.

 

Doc

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Doc, Thanks :) I just wanted to understand what and why - I reset the breaker, and tested the dryer - still no heat. I don't have a voltage meter, so I can't test it at the wall itself.

 

I can't do any more until I get home tonight, but what would be next?

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If you don't get a voltage meter, one that you can check ohms with, you will just be changing parts for no reason hoping to get lucky and change the right one.

If you don't have a meter then I would suggest taking the front off the dryer and taking off the dryer belt and removing the tub.  After you get the belt loose, grab it at the top and slide it so it is a few inches from the back of the dryer and pull up on it.  This should release the drum from it's bearing support in the back and allow you to remove it.  This will give you access to the whole insides of the dryer.   First thing to check is the heater coil, located behind the dryer drum.  You can see it when you take out the drum.  You can visually inspect it for any breaks.  You may get lucky and find this is the bad part.  If so change it and you're good.  If the coil is good then you'll need a meter to test the rest of the parts, namely thermostats or other related parts.  You will need to find out why your heater is not getting power.  For this you will need a meter. 

 

Doc

Edited by electro_doc

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Digital multimeters that do basic stuff are very cheap to purchase,  Walmart. Lowes, Home Depot, etc.   Research here on appliantology how to use one so you don't hurt yourself,  220 voltage is very dangerous if approached not knowing safety techniques.

 

Electro_Doc gives good advice, check for correct  voltage at receptacle.   One more thing are you sure you have the correct double breaker for the dryer.  Should be a 30 amp double.    I say this because I went on a call that a customer was adamant that the breaker was the correct one.   Turned out he was checking the water heater breaker & was not happy with a service call fee.   The dryer breaker had one leg tripped & was not that visible to the untrained eye. 

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My money is the heating element has failed.....Access the drum and remove it, lift the drum slightly to get the ball on the drum out of the bearing socket.............You will see a parted element...........P/N Part number: 5300622034

Part number: 5300622034

 , about 85 clam$..is the element restringing kit only, you do not need the whole heater pan assy..........Check the 'main rear bearing' for wear........if you are this deep into the repair, change the rear bearing if the grease grooves are worn down....P/N Part number: 5303281153

Part number: 5303281153
.....about 35 clam$. Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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My money is the heating element has failed.....Access the drum and remove it, lift the drum slightly to get the ball on the drum out of the bearing socket.............You will see a parted element...........P/N Part number: 5300622034

Part number: 5300622034

 , about 85 clam$..is the element restringing kit only, you do not need the whole heater pan assy..........Check the 'main rear bearing' for wear........if you are this deep into the repair, change the rear bearing if the grease grooves are worn down....P/N Part number: 5303281153

Part number: 5303281153

.....about 35 clam$.

My money is on the element also.    Just starting with root of current flow in diagnostic procedure.   I bridle the horse before I saddle the beast.

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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