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keithnellie

maytag dryer model MGDE300VF0 works fine then stops...... then starts

30 posts in this topic

My maytag gas dryer works fine but stops after a few minutes then re-starts itself. I am thinking it is a thermal fuse or thermostat that is overheating. My vent is clean. I can hear something click when it stops but can't pin down exactly what component is clicking. Do those fuses get weak over time?

Any ideas?

Edited by DurhamAppliance
added model number to topic title

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Please post your MODEL number

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Have some ideas but need model number!

 

Doc

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model number 


model number         MGDE300VF0

 

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Sounds like to me the motor is overheating and cutting out on the thermo protector.  It will cut the motor off if the motor is too hot or if it is drawing to many amps.  Could be caused by a bunch of lint on the motor not allowing it to cool itself or even something in the blower housing putting stress on the motor when it is turning.  You could check the amps on the motor while it is running or simply wait till it cuts off and take the front of the dryer off and put your hand on it to see how hot it is.  Also take the belt off the dryer and see if the motor turn freely.  My best guess is you probably need to open up the dryer and do a good cleaning of the lint.  You will probably end up getting a new motor.  Open up the dryer and see what you can find out and post your findings.

 

Doc

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I am thinking it is a thermal fuse ... that is overheating.

 

A thermal *fuse* by definition doesn't reset when it cools.  It's a one-time blow, then must be replaced.  If the the unit "gets hot" and shuts off, then runs again when it has cooled, the problem is not a thermal *fuse*.  Thermal *protector* on the motor (which does reset when it cools), maybe.

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thermal protector or high limit safety thermostat for the motor, is resetable and as long as this dryer doesn't have a start switch the motor could start back up after the safety resets.

 

I can't think of any other way the dryer could stop and start by itself.  I'm all ears if you have any ideas.

 

Doc

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Motor Part number: AP3094233

Part number: AP3094233

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Ran the dryer and when it kicked off I unplugged it and reached in and felt the motor. I won't get those finger prints back again. The motor was very hot. 

 

I ordered a new motor and blower wheel because the old wheel just didn't want to come off. I cleaned all the lint and dirt out and when the motor comes in it should be an easy re-assembly. 

 

Thanks for the guidance.

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The new motor and blower arrived yesterday and the installation was a breeze. All put back together with new stuff and the same problem still exists. What can make the new motor overheat. The drum didn't seem like it was dragging around when I free spun it. Nothing appears to be caught between the drum and the outer part. the washer is working fine now so the clothes were spun fairly dry and the size of the load was probably less than normal. 

Any new ideas?

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Is this dryer in a closet or small room where the door is closed while it's running?

 

Is there other heat-generating equipment in the room, like a boiler?

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My maytag gas dryer works fine but stops after a few minutes then re-starts itself. I am thinking it is a thermal fuse or thermostat that is overheating. My vent is clean. I can hear something click when it stops but can't pin down exactly what component is clicking. Do those fuses get weak over time?

Any ideas?

What do you mean by stops? What is stopping?  The drum rotation?

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Everything stops except the timer which counts down to zero then it all shuts off. I thought maybe it was a bad dryness sensor but tried it again with a timed cycle and the same thing happens. 

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Is the dryer venting ok?  Is the dryer getting the correct voltage?  Is the belt on correct ( grooves meshing with the grooves on the motor?

 

is it (the motor) still getting really really hot and kicking out on the thermo overload?

 

Doc

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The dryer is in a 13' x 20' room and is vented well within the max guidelines set by maytag. The first thing I did was to be sure I had no obstructions and it was probably the cleanest vent I had ever worked on. On top of that it is all rigid pipe, no flex with one 90. The outlet of the vent blows hard and gets nice and warm. I will check the voltage. I am the end of the line for power service so I may be getting fluctuations. 

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low voltage will cause it to run hot!  See if you can check the amps also!

 

Doc

Edited by electro_doc

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I finally was able to check voltage today and to my surprise it wasn't low but too high. I am 147 volts at the receptacle which is higher than it used to be. When I built the house I ran my own wiring ( to better than code and it passed inspection with flying colors). I checked all outlets at that time and I was right at 119v-120v. More volts should mean less amps but there are nameplate ratings for both. I will call my power company Monday morning and inquire about that. I have a transformer 200 yards from the house and I am the only house on it right now.

 

Most of my work involves 3 phase motors and I know voltage imbalances will kill a motor but I have read that single phase motors are more susceptible to high voltage problems so maybe that is why my washer and dryer are both acting up. Hasn't affected my ceiling fans yet nor my HVAC units but don't want to start replacing all those either. Lights do seem to burn out quicker than expected. 

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Yes, good find.  Did your motor tend to run hot also?  Also the dryer coils will get alot hotter alot faster as well.  Check the 220.  It it like 300 or so as well?

 

Doc

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This is a gas dryer but I'll check the 220 because I was almost ready to replace the set I have with a Kenmore washer and electric dryer and i would have been more than  little upset if the problem would have continued with the new set.

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This is a gas dryer but I'll check the 220 because I was almost ready to replace the set I have with a Kenmore washer and electric dryer and i would have been more than  little upset if the problem would have continued with the new set.

Yeah, that could have been causing your dryer to act up as well.  Maybe burn out the solanoids or at least heat them up and cause them or cut out or maybe burn out the igniter.  Were you having any dryer issues?

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Checked the 220 and it was 294 so I called the power company and they sent out a crew with a new transformer. Seems that with the underground transformers after a lighting strike instead of frying the transformer it does something inside where the voltage increases. They see it all the time. I will discuss filing a claim because i just replaced a well pump to the tune of $1800 that was only 4 years old along with the washer and dryer.

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So what is the end result?  Is your washer ok now or are you just getting a new one.  Seems yours might work ok when you get the new transformer.  What's the latest?  Glad you were able to figure it out.

 

Doc

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Don't know for sure yet. I am working 12 hour nights for a couple more days and with a 1.5 hour commute each way it doesn't leave much trouble shooting time. I don't know if any permanent damage is done but most electronics can take over voltages so if the motors still work I may be okay. I will post again when I have a day off.

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Ok thanks, waiting patiently for you reply.

 

Doc

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My humble opinion:

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