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Trying to replace gearcase shaft seal Kenmore washer 11020922990


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30 replies to this topic

#1 strudles

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Posted 24 April 2014 - 10:04 PM

This is a gearcase for a Kenmore mod# 11020922990 washer.

I'm trying to replace the shaft seal in the top cover of the gearcase (part # 3349985), but am having a terrific time getting the old seal out. The old seal had a tear in it, hence the oil that was leaking out into my clutch causing my washer not to spin properly.

Anyway, I pulled out as much as I could, but it almost seems that it's glued in as the sides of the seal are not coming away from the metal. What would be the best way to get rid of the old gasket rubber before trying to put the new one in? I saw the advice from post #9 here (http://appliantology...r-transmission/), I will try to do that if I can find the plastic "tail piece." The old seal in that post looks intact, like it came out nicely. Mine wasn't like that at all.

Also, the oil in the transmission was dark and silty and had lots of dust and what seem to be metal shavings in it so I plan to take everything out so I can clean it out before reassembling and re-adding oil.

This was a new transmission last summer/fall; should the seal and oil have degraded so quickly in that short a period of time?

Thank you,

Trudi

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 25 April 2014 - 06:16 AM.
added make and model number to title


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#2 MicaBay

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 08:59 AM



#3 strudles

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 09:12 AM

I've seen this video, it's a good one, but it doesn't help me know how to get the old rubber off the top shell of the gearcase. Is there anything that would soften or dissolve the rubber or would sandpaper work? Not sure where to go from here...



#4 MicaBay

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 09:33 AM

I would try using a single edged razor blade. Scrapping it off. It is the tool I used when cleaning my head gasket off on my old toyota 4runner.

#5 certified tech group 51

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 10:40 AM

I posted a few pictures a while ago on this repair, cannot find it.But here is a few pictures of the repair "Tool".......4152011036.jpg......and  4152011031.jpg..and 4152011025.jpg.....In the first picture is the wooden jig I whiped up to hold the gearbox......The plastic "tool" is a plumbing piece called a "tail piece", it attaches to the out let on your sink drain..........30 wt. motor oil, non-detergent, is what I top -off  the gear-box with....


Edited by certified tech group 51, 25 April 2014 - 10:41 AM.


#6 strudles

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 11:29 AM

I'll try a razor blade, hope I don't scrape up the metal too much, though. The surface seems a little concave so not completely flat which makes it a bit more of a challenge.



#7 electro_doc

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Posted 25 April 2014 - 11:47 AM

I have never had one of those leak.  Not saying they can't but just wondering if maybe you had too much oil in the gear case.

 

Doc



#8 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 26 April 2014 - 05:42 AM

There's no way to get too much oil in the gearcase, (unless you use a little syringe to inject it into the tiny vent hole on the top cover).

 

The correct oil level is just to the top of lower gearcase.


William Burk (Willie)
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#9 strudles

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Posted 27 April 2014 - 09:53 AM

The shaft seal was cracked when I went to take it out (before I had done anything to try to remove it).

 

I got the gearcase apart and the oil was so dirty and sludgy looking and there were lots of slivers of something (plastic wearing off from the neutral drain gear maybe?) and dust so I poured out all the oil and will refill with fresh oil before closing up. I do have a question about the best way to clean the plastic gear as well as getting all the old oil out. I wiped out what I could with a paper towel making sure not to leave paper towel residue, but there are a couple of places I can't reach. Is it necessary to do a deep clean or will it be ok to just put new oil it as is? Is there anything I could "rinse" the gear with or soak it in to clean it better, or is that even necessary?

 

I still can't get the rubber off the gearcase cover (around shaft opening where old seal was). I tried freezing it and will see if that makes the rubber brittle enough to chip off. Doing a web search for things that would dissolve or soften rubber I read about gasoline, acetone or ammonia. Anyone have any thoughts in this department?

 

Thanks, I'm itching to get everything back together and get us washing again!

 

Trudi



#10 certified tech group 51

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Posted 28 April 2014 - 02:37 PM

The seal is press fit into the recess of the cover..........Possibly some one had previously "repaired" the leak/seal...................................Press out and press in the seal , no gluing in the seal..................You may have to use an X-Acto type knife and clean all the  pieces out of the seals seating area............Your first post sez it was new...................New  or a Whirlpool 'reconditioned / rebuilt'  unit ????........



#11 strudles

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Posted 28 April 2014 - 04:32 PM

As far as I know, it was new. We bought it as a new transmission from a local appliance parts place.

 

Thanks to my son (13), the old seal is OUT! :woohoo: I was way off, the rubber wasn't bonded to the transmission cover, it was part of the seal and I didn't realize it. So that's done, but he and I are having a hard time getting the new seal in. I tried the tail piece (which I am borrowing from our bathroom sink), but I don't have any Windex, is there anything else I could use to help ease it in? Neither of us are having much luck getting it in. We're so close!

 

Thanks for all your help so far!

 

Trudi



#12 electro_doc

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Posted 28 April 2014 - 04:43 PM

use some dishwashing liquid.  Works great.



#13 strudles

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Posted 29 April 2014 - 10:25 PM

Whew, finally got it in. DH got the correct tail piece (mine didn't have the lip at the top) and managed to strong-arm the seal in. But now I'm having other issues to the point that I'm about to chuck the transmission as far as I can throw it, but that's for another post. Thanks for all your terrific help, it was greatly appreciated.

 

Trudi



#14 strudles

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Posted 29 April 2014 - 10:45 PM

Kenmore Elite 90 Mod# 11020922990

 

I took my gearcase apart to replace the shaft seal (history here: http://appliantology...er-11020922990/) and put everything back together per theapplianceman's YouTube video here ).'>(). When I got it all back together (after gasket had had some time to set up), the washer agitated nicely, but when it came time to spin, it drained out and made noises like it was spinning, but no spin. I took the motor off and tried to turn the drive coupler by hand to see if the clutch did anything and it didn't, neither CW or CCW. So I took the gearcase back out, opened it back up and had a look.

 

What I've noticed is that I can hold the plastic spin gear and keep it from turning while I turn the drive coupler on the side of the gearcase. Is it supposed to do that or should it turn in spite of resistance?

 

Something that maybe is beside the point is that when I was turning the drive coupler, it didn't turn nice and smooth, in fact when I took all the parts out, the gear (shown in this picture, don't know it's name, http://www.davesrepa...sn/PC120044.JPG) in the bottom of the gearcase seems to catch when I turn the coupler, CW or CCW, doesn't seem to matter. When I put all the parts but the spin gear back in, I can turn it by hand for a little while, then it seem to get hung up and doesn't want to turn anymore. All this might be perfectly normal, but this grasshopper wouldn't really know the difference as this is the first time inside the gearcase for me. I'm just trying to figure out why the clutch won't spin, whether the spin gear slipping is normal... I've gotta troubleshoot this thing, it's driving me crazy! (Well, that and the laundry piling up all over the place) :wacko:

 

Thanks in advance for your help,

 

Trudi



#15 electro_doc

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Posted 29 April 2014 - 11:31 PM

You may not have the marks on the shaft gear and the agitate gear matched up.  the one line in the middle of the other two lines.  This will cause it to bind up when you try to turn the gear case gears.  This is one problem.  I think you had that right before you took it apart again because you had it agitating but not spinning.  I think you must not have the neutral drain parts in right.  They need to engage the plastic wheel in order for the washer to spin.  You can check if you have it right or not before you put it all back together by turning the transmission gear by hand,  one way for agitate and the other way for spin.  Maybe you need to look at the video again and follow it closely.

 

Doc



#16 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 04:47 AM

topics merged

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#17 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 07:30 AM

I got the gearcase apart and the oil was so dirty and sludgy looking and there were lots of slivers of something (plastic wearing off from the neutral drain gear maybe?)

 

Plastic wearing off the neutral drain gear maybe?  If the main spin gear/plastic had teeth wore off it, then it's not going to spin!


William Burk (Willie)
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#18 strudles

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 11:16 AM

I was wondering if it might be a worn spin gear too, but didn't have a new one to compare it with.

 

I did make sure that the connecting rack mark lined up with the mark on the agitate gear so I'm sure it wasn't that.

 

Here is a video of my gearcase. http://youtu.be/TsUiXYJIY3E

 

I figured out the jerkiness with the spiral gear in the bottom of the gearcase, it was just how my gearcase was sitting on top of the bucket I had it on. Once I moved that, it cleared up. But the whole works do bind up a bit at 1:15 and it was hard to turn the drive coupler, but then it did get easier. I started turning CCW, then CW. Spin gear still stays stationary when I hold it, shouldn't it keep rotating so that the clutch will turn? Is there a special way to put it on so that it lines up with all the parts on the neutral drain assembly?

 

Here are closeups of the spin gear:

 

 

 



#19 strudles

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 11:24 AM

Hmm, images didn't show up, here are links to the images:

 

https://drive.google...dit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google...dit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google...dit?usp=sharing



#20 strudles

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 11:29 AM

Here is an image of the neutral drain parts to verify that I put them in correctly: https://drive.google...dit?usp=sharing






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