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Winston Jones

Whirlpool Model EED4400WQ0 No heat...Centrifugal SW?

10 posts in this topic

Greetings Forum,

 

Can someone please identify the part (switch) circled on the schematic below.  I believe it is the centrifugal switch after reading other posts here. Can someone confirm.  I have tested everything else...and they were ok.  I see that I am not getting the L2 at the heater...this "switch" is the only thing preventing it.  Thanks.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwB7m1pzfV_KemFjZXhXbzcxZFE/edit?usp=sharing

 

 

V/R,

Winston 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

And by everything, you made sure you have 240 Volts L1-L2 and 120 Volts L1- N and L2-N?  Does the motor run?

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Yes that is the cyntrifical switch for the heater but like micabay says are you sure you are getting 220 to the dryer.  If so make sure you also have 220 from M2 on the motor switch to the heater element.  When the motor comes on then you shoud get 220 from M1 to the heater.  Have you checked all thermostats,  the high limit cut out is a high probability.  Anyway to answer your question yes this is the motor heater switch.

 

Doc

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Yes that is the cyntrifical switch for the heater but like micabay says are you sure you are getting 220 to the dryer.  If so make sure you also have 220 from M2 on the motor switch to the heater element.  When the motor comes on then you shoud get 220 from M1 to the heater.  Have you checked all thermostats,  the high limit cut out is a high probability.  Anyway to answer your question yes this is the motor heater switch.

 

Doc

Curious other's experience on here, has anyone seen the centrifugal switch operate the motor start/run circuit but fail to work the heat circuit?

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Curious other's experience on here, has anyone seen the centrifugal switch operate the motor start/run circuit but fail to work the heat circuit?

Yes,,,, seperate contacts.  Heater points get burnt because of the higher wattage.  Also could just have lint between them and not the motor points.  Never seen that but have seen them burnt and motor still working.

I was able to put in a contactor used in AC's.  Hooked it to the get power  when the dryer called for heat and hooked the two wires that normally went to the motor switch to the contactor to activate when the contactor activated.  Worked great but I don't reccomend it.  I'm in Costa Rica and couldn't get the motor so I was forced to do this or the dryer wouldn't get fixed.  If I could have gotten the motor I would have for sure bought one.

 

 

Doc

Edited by electro_doc

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we are seeing many centrifical switches failing recently

1/2 dozen or so in the last couple of months

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we are seeing many centrifical switches failing recently

1/2 dozen or so in the last couple of months

Does the motor still run just no heater action?

 

Doc

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yeah, i have run into a lot of them lately, runs but dont  heat, you can see whlp changed source of the motors

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I've seen a few dryer motors where the spring for the centrifugal switch and the whole centrifugal switch fall out of the motor, most of them LG or Samsung.

Edited by Scottthewolf

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Concur with the Brethren.  I did on one occasion find the L2 (red) wire had come loose from inside the motor switch harness connector (2M), which resulted in the motor running, but no heat.  Unit under first year warranty, I simply reinserted the wire into the harness connector until secure, and heat was restored.

 

So, Whirlpool, if you're listening, there really is truth when entering "Resecured loose wire.  Checked operation", in the Service Performed box of the NARDA claim form.

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