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Samsung RFG297AARS freezer section not cooling

12 posts in this topic

Fridge works fine. 

Freezer not cooling properly.

Unplugged and re-plugged. Both sections started cooling

After a 1/2 hour, freezer showed cooling quickly on front panel, but at about 34 degrees, the freezer actually stopped cooling.

 

3 year old Samsung. 29cu ft. double door fridge and bottom freezer.

 

I ran the fridge for about 2 hours and tracked the current draw. Varied between 1.4 and 2 amps with compressor running until it shut off and went into defrost. Defroster and both bottom fans are working. Frost pattern is light frost in the top 1/4 of the freezer coils.

 

Since the temperature kept going down quickly from 36 to -2 on the front panel, but the freezer never actually went below 32, I am thinking there is something wrong with the temperature sensor or something on the board that senses the temp. Any other tests I can run? I tried holding down the power freeze and power cool for 5 seconds, but nothing happened. Where is the temperature sensor? I don't see it. Thanks for the help.

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This unit will perform an automatic self diagnostic sensor test upon initial startup.  Faults will be indicated by a flashing led segment of the temperature display.  The self diagnostic routine can be engaged by the user, but any faults indicated from the initial self diagnosis will be cancelled.

 

If Energy Saver & Lighting keys are pressed simultaneously for 8 seconds, the temperature setting will operate for 2 seconds (On/Off 0.5 seconds each).

If Energy Saver & Lighting keys are pressed simultaneously for 8 seconds (plus the above 2 seconds), the self diagnostic function will be selected.

At this moment, the buzzer should sound "ding dong", and any faults should be displayed for 30 seconds.

 

I'm a little concerned about that frost pattern.  Check again and advise.

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Get the fast track manual and check your thermistors. Make sure all are within spec.

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Not sure what happened there and I can't edit it. I unplugged and "re-booted" again. No errors on power up. What is strange is that the temp sensor seems to work after unplugging. No matter what stage things are in, when I unplug and restart, the freezer sensor is reading the correct temperature for a while. But after 3 to 5 hours the front panel just says that the freezer temp is whatever I set it to. last check was the freezer was about 56 degrees but reporting -2. Of course there is no frost on the freezer coils now because they are too warm. I will try again with unplugging and letting it go for 30 minutes and see if they are cold. Also, the fridge never turns off. It draws 2amps for a while, then defrosts, then goes back to running again.

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You need to pull out the refrigerator and remove the panel to the main board. Check the voltages (dc) at all the thermistors and see what temps the thermistors say vs actual temp. That's the first step to fixing any samsung.

You will to get the fast track manual from the downloads section.

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Thanks. I checked the voltages. The sensors all read the actual ambient, fridge, freezer temps. Not sure about the R defrost sensor

 

pin 3, 3.16v, 21 degrees, F Sensor (should be -4, but 21 is the best it can do)

pin 4, 3.12v, 23 degrees, F Def Sensor

pin 6, 2.84v, 32 degrees, R Sensor (my guage say 32-34)

pin 8, 3.72v, -.2 degrees, R defrost sensor

pin 9, 2.65v, 39.2 degrees, Pantry Sensor

 

I tried to include a pic, but this system seems to only allow a link which I would have to post somewhere. Frost pattern is the same as when I first took the cover off the other day. A good 1/8" evenly covering over the top 1/3 of the coils after running for over 30 hours. I don' think it has stopped once. There seems to be 3 loops on this freezer coil, so the top third frosts up, the bottom one feels the same temp as the freezer.

 

Now I'm worried it is a leak, though I can't explain the fridge working properly. I have a leak detector and can try that, but I can only obviously check the compressor area. What can I do next?

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No leaks detected in any area near the compressor or condenser coils. temp in the freezer goes between 40 and 21.

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Sensor voltage readings appear to be within tolerance, resistance readings may be helpful.  Evaporator frost pattern could indicate a sealed system problem, leak, restriction, or inefficient compressor.  You may also want to check voltage and continuity of the defrost heater.

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Is there a way to force the valve that switches the fridge and freezer to cycle? I want to test and see if the motherboard is sending it the 12v and if I hear it engage and disengage. If it never sends the signal I would have to guess motherboard. If it gets sent, it is the sealed system and Samsung can deal with it under warranty.

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Turning on power cool and power freeze switches the valve. You should be able to feel it moving

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Is it close to the compressor? Tight quarters under there. Only about 10" with the compressor on the left and the coils on the right. I have noticed that if I unpug the fridge and plug it back in, it cools for few hours in the freezer. That may be a clue.

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