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LG DLE7177WM "Dry" "Cooling" immediately


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16 replies to this topic

#1 BigCatBobcat

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Posted 02 May 2014 - 05:57 PM

Hello All!

I've read all the posts on my particular dryer on here, and have gotten lots of good info, but I don't know if my particular issue has been covered.  I recently replaced the cord on the LG DLE7177WM and I noticed, even though it was installed with a 4 wire cord, it was wired like a 3 wire cord, with the neutral inside the dryer being tied to the ground.  I installed the new cord with both neutrals going to the white, neutral terminal.  Everything ran fine for a few loads and now whenever I put a load in to dry, after setting to even high heat timed dry, the display flashes "DRY" and the "cooling" displays solid.  I've scrubbed the sensors on the inside of the lint trap, i've cleared all the blockages and actually shortened up the vent pipe between the dryer and the wall.  The dryer vents to the wall makes a 90* turn and has about a 5 foot run to the outside.  I took the vent pipe off completely and it's blowing just fine but it's cool air, not even warm.  I'm wondering if i need to start taking things apart and testing parts.  Could the cord thing have screwed me up?  If i put it back with the dryer's neutral tying to the ground, would that mess anything up?  Could someone explain to me how it worked with a 4 wire cord wired like a 3 wire?  What am I to do here?



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#2 tpoindexter

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Posted 02 May 2014 - 09:39 PM

I suggest you watch and read this to confirm wiring before moving forward just to ensure everything is good then we can go further into our problem

http://appliantology...terminal-block/


Test

#3 BigCatBobcat

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Posted 02 May 2014 - 10:41 PM

Yes exactly how they had it in the video.  I opened it up, it was neutral to ground, when i replaced the cord, the neutrals are together on the neutral block.



#4 john63

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Posted 02 May 2014 - 11:04 PM

<<<Everything ran fine for a few loads>>>

 

**********

 

Was the clothing *dry* at the end of the cycle?

If not---high probability of a partially/completely blocked dryer vent (in the wall of the home---if applicable)

Possible "blown" Thermal Limiter

 

**********

 

 

<<<now whenever I put a load in to dry, after setting to even high heat timed dry, the display flashes "DRY" and the "cooling" displays solid.>>>

**********

 

Cooling Lamp indicates that the Heating Element is "off" when the dryer is operating/running.

 

Check for 240 volts at the wall outlet


Edited by john63, 02 May 2014 - 11:06 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 BigCatBobcat

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 03:57 PM

Yep. Got 240.

#6 john63

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 04:22 PM

You'll need...

 

Service Manual

 

Perform surgery/open-up the patient (disassemble dryer)

 

Test the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heating Element (replace if failed)

 

Verify that the venting is 100% clean/clear (no guessing permitted/allowed)

 

 

 

 

What about this...

 

 

 

 

<<<Everything ran fine for a few loads>>>

 

**********

 

Was the clothing *dry* at the end of the cycle?


Edited by john63, 04 May 2014 - 05:41 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 BigCatBobcat

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 07:48 PM

I am not 100% on the dryness of those first few loads after the cord change. This is actually Mom's dryer which I'm attempting to fix.

#8 john63

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 08:13 PM

Likely has a "blown" THERMAL LIMITER---and a venting issue (in the home)

 

What was the reason/need---for replacing the original Dryer Cord?


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 BigCatBobcat

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 08:55 PM

That was odd.  Hope I did the right thing there as well.  Whole story:  about 6 months ago dryer wouldn't come on.  I got sort of on top of it to reach back to unplug it and actually bumped the power button while reaching for the cord and it came on.  I(this was like after 40 minutes of cussing and fussing with the thing) i realized if i held the cord at an angle, it worked.  Basically, if you held it where it was sticking straight out the back towards the wall, the thing worked.  Weirdest thing, but being broke as a joke, I had a pipe clamp and just held the cord against the wall with that and it worked for about 6 months no issues until recently.  So mom said "I thing your jerry-rig (apologies to all Jerry's), is finally failing.  time for a new cord"  So i got a shorter cord, found the thing wired like a 3 wire, I set it up the proper way.  Come to think of it, maybe my rig-job with the cord isn't what failed but this thermal limiter.  



#10 john63

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:40 PM

 <<<i realized if i held the cord at an angle, it worked.>>>

 

**********

 

That's rare---a failed Power Cord.

 

I've seen that---perhaps 2 or 3 times over 30 years.

 

**********

 

<<< Come to think of it, maybe my rig-job with the cord isn't what failed but this thermal limiter. >>>

 

***********

 

I agree:)


Edited by john63, 04 May 2014 - 09:40 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 BigCatBobcat

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:46 PM

The cord thing was so weird. I wish I had kept it and pulled it apart to see what the deal was. I don't think the strain relief was in place correctly. So straight out towards the wall took the strain off that the strain relief couldn't? So weird.

#12 BigCatBobcat

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Posted 15 May 2014 - 03:31 PM

Well, I opened the thing up, thinking for sure I'd see a blown thermal limiter.  Had one in hand to put in, tested the one I was taking out just to be sure and it is not blown.  I tested the larger one further towards the back and it too is working.  Where do I go from here?  Thank you so much for all the assistance!



#13 john63

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Posted 16 May 2014 - 09:56 PM

Has the power outlet in the wall been examined/verified okay?

 

Have an electrician inspect the wall outlet and the plug installation.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 BigCatBobcat

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Posted 26 May 2014 - 05:45 PM

well, here's the deal.  I actually bought a multimeter.  I tested the thermal limiter, as stated, it was ok.  I tested the heating element assembly, the ohms didn't go all the way up.  So I ordered it.  got it, put it in, hooked it all up just the way i had taken it apart. the belt fell off immediately, put that back on correctly.  ran it for 10 minutes on high heat.  it was blowing hot air!  beautiful!  everything was fixed.  hooked it back up to the vent pipe.  "Ma!  It's fixed!"  2 days later "Umm my socks are still wet, what'd you do to the dryer?"  yep.  I had left the tester out, the cat bit through the leads to the probes, so i bought a new one.  I just figured i'd test the parts i took off again, as this one is better than the first, the heating element now is ok?  What am I doing here other than spending money on parts i don't likely need?



#15 BigCatBobcat

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Posted 26 May 2014 - 07:35 PM

ok, as i was typing all that, i realized, unhooked from the vent, heat, hooked to the vent, no heat.  tested this theory.  it's the venting.  i'm going to get this:  http://www.homedepot...-AMCC/202263010 to replace the bendy-straw style, because it is super close.  what do you think?



#16 electro_doc

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Posted 26 May 2014 - 11:00 PM

Have you checked your vent?  Hook up your dryer and see how the air is coming out, strong or weak, hot or cold?  A plugged up vent will cause your dryer to get really hot but not dry the clothes because the air is not moving to remove the moisture.  It will still get hot though.  You should check your thermostats for continuity.  If it gets hot but doesn't dry the clothes when you hook up the vent then I'd say you have a vent problem.  Especially if it gets hot and drys the clothes when the vent is unhooked and the air is allowed to exit the dryer unrestricted.  If however it doesn't heat at all when it's hooked up to the vent, I'd be looking for another problem other than the vent.

 

Doc



#17 MicaBay

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 08:13 AM

ok, as i was typing all that, i realized, unhooked from the vent, heat, hooked to the vent, no heat.  tested this theory.  it's the venting.  i'm going to get this:  http://www.homedepot...-AMCC/202263010 to replace the bendy-straw style, because it is super close.  what do you think?

Those restrict the airflow quite a bit.  I would only use that if it vents directly out the wall, and even then I would be hesitant.... virtually a 6 inch vent run.






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