10 replies to this topic

[feralhamster]

Several weeks ago we had the ERC on our oven fail.  I replaced it with a new one from repairclinic.com.  That appeared to solve the incessant beeping and flashing F1.

Then we noticed the oven would preheat just fine but would not hold temperature.  The ignitor would come on for about 15 seconds and then shut off before the gas solenoid would fire.  This process would repeat every minute or so as the oven temperature continued to plummet.  Increasing set point temperature actually causes oven to reach new temperature only to fall back into same cycle.

Repairman replaced temperature sensor even though it checked out okay.  Same problem.

Repairman out again.  Checked ignitor (okay) and suggested bad ERC.

Replaced ERC.  Same problem.

Repairman now says just give it up.  I can't - the oven isn't even five years old...

Is there something that needs to be done to calibrate the ERC when it is installed to make it function correctly?  The part came with no instructions.

Is it possible there is a bad batch of ERCs floating around out there?  It seems so unlikely and yet I'm at a loss.

I've read all about the whole ignitor business and considered maybe it was bad.  The thing that I don't get is why does the ERC only leave it on for about 15 seconds at a time (I can hear the relay in the ERC click on and off)?  Why does it preheat just fine?  Why did it just become a problem after we replaced the original one?

Any ideas?

[Ron]

There is a flash on this model that addresses your exact problem.   The problem is in the control board.   If your original board part # was wb27k10048 you were to replace it with wb27k10141.  If your original board part # was wb27k10049,  you were to replace it with wb27k10142.  I don't know where you got the board but make sure it was the right one or your going to have the same problem.  Hope this helps you ....Ron

[feralhamster]

Ron,

Thanks a bunch for the information.  Unfortunately I don't have the original part number.  The Sears website gives me a part number of WB11K10012 for my model number.  Do you know anything about this part number?  Do you know if it will work?  I didn't order the part from Sears because it was twice as much and thinking parts is parts.  Evidently they are not.

Thanks again,

Mike

[Ron]

Mike,   I would call Sears and tell them you know there was a service flash on this model regarding your problem.  The part you listed is the control board but I don't know if its  been revised.  Tell them you need the revised board that will correct this problem and compare it with the part numbers I gave you.   Who knows,  maybe they'll come out and repair it for free....Good luck...Ron 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Mike, what is the Repairclinic part number of the ERC you replaced your old one with?  I pull up RC part number 244772.  Check to see if that's the one you bought.  Repairclinc is excellent about keeping up with part number subs and I've always found their database to be right up to date, so I'd be surprised if they sold you the wrong clock.  And, if they did, they'll refund your money. 

[feralhamster]

That is the part number I purchased from RepairClinic.com.  They were really good about sending out a replacement.  In fact they sent one 2nd day without waiting for the return and without charging me.  Unfortunately neither one worked.

Thanks.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=58]Ron[/user] wrote:

If your original board part # was wb27k10048 you were to replace it with wb27k10141.  If your original board part # was wb27k10049,  you were to replace it with wb27k10142. 

Mike, call RepairClinic (800-269-2609) and ask them about this.  I ran both those part numbers through the p/n lookup form below and came with two different Repairclinc numbers: 1086147 and 1086148.

[feralhamster]

I called repair clinic and they told me 244772 is the correct part for my model number.  Sears tells me the part number is WB11K10012 which maps onto 244772 at repair clinic.  Actually all four part numbers Ron mentioned show up at repair clinic (four different RC numbers).  I'm sure 244772 is not the right part and that the correct part is out there, the question is which one is the correct part?  Sears couldn't tell me the original part number - their system only shows the substitute.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Let's back up a sec.  You started out by saying that the original problem, the F1 fault code, was solved by replacing the ERC.  The symptoms have evolved into a short-cycling igniter.  It's possible that this is a separate problem altogether and not related to (but was masked by) the original F1 problem; eg., flakey igniter or thermal cutoff. 

Bottom line:  I seriously doubt that the ERC is the problem at this point and, if Repairclinic tells you that you've got the right ERC, then that's the fact.  Time to look elsewhere for demons to destroy.

The wiring diagram would reveal what else needs to be checked.  This will be on your range somewhere, the pan drawer is a common hiding place.  Get it, post it here and I'll tell you some other things to check.