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Frigidaire LGHB2869LF3 French Door Ice Maker - Not cold, No ice

11 posts in this topic

We've been having issues recently with the ice maker in the fresh food section of the refrigerator, Frigidaire LGHB2869LF3, not producing ice. I have referenced the Frigidaire Service Tech Hand Book regarding error codes (http://appliance911seabreeze.com/Frigidaire_Error_Code_Booklet.pdf) and have tested all successfully except 62C - Electronic Expansion Valve (EEV) Test (p. 8-4 of aforementioned PDF). The test failed, and unfortunately, this is where my servicing skills have ended. I'm not sure where the Th3 thermistor is located. According to this schematic, http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/R1011150-00008.png, it's part #22. Based on the exploded section of the drawing, I'm assuming it's not near the actual ice maker. 

 

Would this "failed" thermistor A) cause the ice maker to be the same temperature as the fresh food, and B) be the reason for not producing ice? Where is this thermistor located?

 

Any help would be appreciated. The refrigerator is less than 3 years old, but based on my research, it's a common occurrence. 

 

Regards,

Bryan

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You have the renowned Frigidaire finger evap ice maker. Bless your heart. However, you may be lucky if the only problem you have is a failed thermistor.

Screenshot_2014-05-15-07-04-13_zpsiodhbj

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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The last time I was on one of these, it also failed test 62C. The tech line told me to apply some of this to all the connections back there.

Part number: AP5590194

Part number: AP5590194

It's worked for 3 months now.

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Thank you. I forgot to mention, I had ran the 52C (Th3- EEV thermistor) test and it did come back with 1. That in itself confused me as 62C is coming back as failed. In my first post, I stated the temperature in the ice maker is the same as the fresh food section. This was incorrect. The temperature, for whatever reason, is up around 57*F whereas fresh food is holding strong at 37*F. The bottom freezer is sitting at 0*F. Could a failed thermistor be causing these symptoms? Like I mentioned, I went through all the tests and everything, aside from 62C, returns normal. 


The last time I was on one of these, it also failed test 62C. The tech line told me to apply some of this to all the connections back there.

Part number: AP5590194

Part number: AP5590194

It's worked for 3 months now.

 

All the electrical connections or the connections on the thermistor, only?

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Some additional thoughts: High temp in the ice box -- maybe the mold heater is continually engaged?  Is there water in the mold? When you open this up, is the mold on the fingers or over by the fill cup? Frigidaire ended up doing a bunch of revisions to the control board, so be prepared for that to be in play. 

 

You mention the EEV test failed.   There is a little electrically activated magnet that covers the valve and it has hair-thin wiring.  If I am remembering correctly, techline will tell you to replace that magnet, and then smear all the connections with the grease mentioned above. That magnet is what snaps the valve open or shut allowing refrigerant to get to the fingers. Be careful - the wiring to this is hair thin and often corroded. 

 

Are the fingers to the evaporator straight up and down or are they going in a bunch of different directions? If they are not straight up and down, the mold is beating up the fingers and there is a service kit you'll need that has about a million new parts. 

 

These units were infamous at our last job for generating callback after callback, with multiple calls into Frigidaire tech support. The kindest thing I can say about them is that Frigidaire was trying something new.  I had heard these were off the market but I run few Electrolux product family calls these days.  

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I understand there are some situations where Frigidaire will do a full replacement because of this ice maker. I don't know for sure because when I get a call about one of these things, I drop the phone and run for the hills.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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I understand there are some situations where Frigidaire will do a full replacement because of this ice maker. I don't know for sure because when I get a call about one of these things, I drop the phone and run for the hills.

 

To be honest, I've had this ice maker turned off for the past few months. If we need any ice, we use the ice created in the bottom freezer. But I'm not getting around to fixing some items around the house, and this ice maker is next on the list. I hope it's an easy repair, but will not invest too much time and money into it if it's a lost cause. 

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Some additional thoughts: High temp in the ice box -- maybe the mold heater is continually engaged?  Is there water in the mold? When you open this up, is the mold on the fingers or over by the fill cup? Frigidaire ended up doing a bunch of revisions to the control board, so be prepared for that to be in play. 

 

You mention the EEV test failed.   There is a little electrically activated magnet that covers the valve and it has hair-thin wiring.  If I am remembering correctly, techline will tell you to replace that magnet, and then smear all the connections with the grease mentioned above. That magnet is what snaps the valve open or shut allowing refrigerant to get to the fingers. Be careful - the wiring to this is hair thin and often corroded. 

 

Are the fingers to the evaporator straight up and down or are they going in a bunch of different directions? If they are not straight up and down, the mold is beating up the fingers and there is a service kit you'll need that has about a million new parts. 

 

These units were infamous at our last job for generating callback after callback, with multiple calls into Frigidaire tech support. The kindest thing I can say about them is that Frigidaire was trying something new.  I had heard these were off the market but I run few Electrolux product family calls these days.  

 

There is no water in the mold, but water does emerge when I perform the 55C water fill test. The mold has always been on the fingers when opened. I believe all switches are functioning properly as the mold will traverse back and forth normally until I prompt it to stop. 

 

Would checking the magnet and fingers be possible with the unit installed in the refrigerator or would I need to pull the system to investigate? 

 

When the maker did work, I would occasionally hear a 'knocking' sound coming from the ice maker. I could never pinpoint the noise, but I believe it was related to the mold moving from the fill position to the freeze position or vice versa. Could this be a related issue or another can of worms to this wonderfully engineered ice maker? 

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it's been long enough that I worked on one of these that I'm not sure, but I am pretty sure the knocking sound is usually due to the gearing on the motor starting to strip so that the mold has a hard time getting into position. 

 

You can't pull the IM out, you have to access it and work in place.  Accessing it requires a pretty good-sized dance of screw removal and copper tube bending and if you do it wrong, you'll kink some refrigerant tubing.  If you choose to find the service manual and download it, you'll need to exercise caution. 


I hope it's an easy repair, but will not invest too much time and money into it if it's a lost cause. 

 

I am not sure I have ever heard this icemaker referred to as "an easy repair." Now that said, other techs may have done enough of these they think it's a breeze. 

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There are 80 pages (yep, that's eight with a ty) in the Service Manual devoted to this discontinued little beauty. It doesn't really pay to learn it except as a mental excercise.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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There are 80 pages (yep, that's eight with a ty) in the Service Manual devoted to this discontinued little beauty. It doesn't really pay to learn it except as a mental excercise.

 

Is it best to cut my losses and invest in a newer model? If so, can you recommend a compatible unit?

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