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Samsung 218ANW/XAA 01

4 posts in this topic

I already made this post...I'm assuming it was deleted because I didn't put a model number in the title. I'm not sure why an Admin wouldn't have just tossed it in there, instead of deleting it...but oh well here goes again:


I have the washer in the title above..I got it with a bad spider behind the drum, it was corroded up & completely broken. I managed to use JB Weld & other high-power metal bonding fillers to get it back together sturdy enough & it lined right back up where it was originally & spins without any wobble. So my repair worked.


The washer WORKED on spin before I did this...So I'm at a loss as to what I may have done? Shorted out the board somehow? I don't know how that's so much possible because Samsung boards are coated in a rubber-type substance. The board # is DC92-100287C.


My very first thought was that I screwed up the stator or the rotor...Well, I have continuity all through all the copper points of the stator. The rotor magnets look fine.


What it actually does now, instead of spinning, is that it will like...try to engage, as in send a surge of power to the stator & lock the magnets up but it doesn't spin at all, it just kinda...jerks. It'll repeat this three times on Spin Only mode then beep loudly & throw a code. I can't remember what the code was, but I believe it was saying there was an issue with the motor. I don't think it's the stator or rotor, but there is one connection (not the three wires where the power comes in, but a second connection) on the stator that has small wires going in to it embedded in a rubberish substance & has two plastic "prongs", with the rubberish substance concealed wires behind it, that stick out at certain points on the stator like it's measuring revolutions or something?


ANY help would be appreciated. I'm convinced I've somehow shorted the board out...but I wanted to ask knowledgeable people before I spend $150 only to be disappointed.


Thank You!



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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Me: Listen, your honor, I don't know why that officer gave me a ticket instead of reaching over and buckling my seat belt for me. I will pay the fine but Man, what's this world coming to?

Judge : Sir, were you aware of the rule?

Me: Yes

Judge : And you have decided to pay the fine, but you just wanted to let us know how you felt, is that right?

Me: That's right.

Judge: Then with all due respect sir, sometimes it's better to remain quiet and be thought a.... well I think you get my drift. You can go now.

okay, now since that's out the way, per Samsung

1) double check connections between motor and hall sensor

2) Check motor resistance of any two of the three motor terminals. Should be 19.4 ohms

3) check resistance on main pcb motor about 2m to 5m ohms

4) check voltage at pin 4 and 3 and 4 and 2 on cn1 both should be .6v dc

5)check resistance of main pcb pin #1-2-3 of cn8 = 280k ohms

6) check water level sensor hose and wire connections

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I wasnt aware of the rule until after I had made the post...& then I happened across another post, but the guy was able to put the model number in the topic before his post was deleted; I couldn't figure out how to do that. It's all in the past, now. And now I know :)

anyway, back to the topic at hand. I am having some trouble understanding where some of the pins and connectors that you are trying to explain are at. Perhaps you could give me a more in-depth explanation of what you mean, I do have a multimeter that will work to do all of the tests, I am just not sure about all the locations of the pens and connectors you are talkin about.

Main PCB motor, hall sensor, and cn1 to be exact.

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