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Travis Bundtzen

GE Monogram ZCIS360NRBR Defrost Issue (Main Board Damage)

5 posts in this topic

I am hoping to get some advice on the next steps regarding my defrost issue with my fridge. 

 

It started with the fridge not defrosting and quite a bit of learning after that.

 

Symptoms:

Fridge/freezer runs fine until the coils freeze with ice and the fridge warms up. If I initiate a defrost test the fans/compressor stop as designed by the defrost heater does not appear to warm. After a certain amount of time the fans start back up and the fridge stays warm while the freezer continues to cool.

 

Steps I have done:

Replaced both freezer thermistors. Show ohms count at 0 degrees at approximately 40,000 which is in the right range.

Tested the temperature overload device and show it has continuity when it is below 45 degrees.

Tested continuity from the main control board through the defrost heater when the freezer is cold and it shows 38 ohms which is correct based off of the schematics.

Replaced main control board that I ordered off Amazon (No change)

 

As everything shows good except the board I decided to purchase another board. Here is where I am scratching my head. I received the new board yesterday. Installed it and let the freezer/fridge cool down. When I started the defrost test there was a huge pop and sparking in the main control board area. I opened it up and the new board was charred on a resistor directly above the defrost heater power. The resistor has a J16 right next to it. I looked at the original board and while it doesn't have the same amount of damage that resistor also appears to be shot. 

 

So the question is, if all the defrost heater components show good, is there something else that is bad? Was it just a bad board? What other dependencies are there and does that resistor point to a problem elsewhere?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Travis 

 

 

 

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

wrong Model# 

 

Defrost is controled by defrost thermistor located on evap coil.  

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Thanks for the response. I keep messing up the model number. It is ZICS360NRBR. I looked at the second board I had replaced and it has the same problem. Appears to be a transistor above the defrost connection that keeps going bad. It has a J16 next to it.

Based off the fridge repair guide it states the defrost is operated by a timer and not the thermistor although it will not run if either the evaporator thermistor or over temperature disk are warm. Maybe the model you were reviewing said otherwise since I submitted an incorrect one.

Anyway, I have proactively ordered a new board, over temperature disk, and defroster. If there is anything else that could cause this area of the board to fail please advise.

Travis

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Sounds like a possible short to ground in the bi-metal or heater.  Might also check defrost circuit wire harness for continuity and/or possible short to chassis.

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Thanks PDuff,

 

I was suspecting a short but have limited experience with electrical. Can you give me some troubleshooting 101 steps for it?

 

Here would be my guess regarding process:

 

-Use a multi meter and connect each of the following to the ground wire:

neutral end of defrost

hot end of defroster

neutral end of bi-metal

hot end of bi-metal

-Readings should show infinity (no connectivity)

 

-Use a multi meter and connect each of the following to the metal part of the fridge chassis:

neutral end of defrost

hot end of defroster

neutral end of bi-metal

hot end of bi-metal

-Readings should show infinity (no connectivity)

 

Any corrections or additional steps?

 

Thanks,

 

Travis

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