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LG refrig LFC20760SW completely dead, no lights, warm

LG refrig dead

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11 replies to this topic

#1 frunch

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Posted 31 July 2014 - 12:10 PM

I checked out an LG refrig today that was completely dead. I have power at the outlet, and I have power coming into the muthaboard. I'm assuming it's a bad board (or in the bit of research I did, a bad fuse on the board--I didn't check the fuse though!  :rolleyes: ) .....anyways, I'm getting 120 vac coming into the board but that's it. Re-seating connectors didn't do anything. Should I order up a replacement board? Anything else I should be checking? Unfortunately I don't have very much experience with these refrigerators, or most LG products for that matter...

Thanks!

Trevor



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#2 BryanS

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Posted 31 July 2014 - 12:23 PM

Sounds like a board to me. Typically, you will find a blown fuse on them if you have nothing running as well as no lights.. Some I've replaced the board and others the fuse was easily replaced. I don't mess with soldering new fuses in.

Edited by BryanS, 31 July 2014 - 12:25 PM.


#3 frunch

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Posted 31 July 2014 - 12:27 PM

Thank you, sir! That was a rapid response! I'm gonna order the board today in hopes that I can get it in time for the weekend.

Thanks again!



#4 BryanS

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Posted 31 July 2014 - 05:34 PM

No problem. You caught me on a lunch break :)

#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 01 August 2014 - 06:53 AM

I routinely replace those fuses and the board has always been fine.

#6 frunch

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Posted 01 August 2014 - 02:28 PM

Good to know, Samurai! Do you desolder the old one and solder in a new one?

By the way, you were right on the money, BrianS-new board fixed the problem!

#7 lvasquez11

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Posted 01 August 2014 - 07:54 PM

If i where you. I'd replaced fuse on brd n keep it as a spare.  



#8 frunch

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Posted 01 August 2014 - 09:35 PM

Think I'm gonna do that! At very least I can use it as a test board for the next LG refrig I run into with the same problem.



#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 02:23 AM

I've done a couple where I just soldered in a jumper wire, eliminating the fuse altogether. But I don't recommend that and I've altered my technique. I now solder in an automobile fuse holder and replace the fuse with one of the same rating.

#10 Patricio

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 05:18 AM

I have done the same as Samurai.   I carry my solder iron & fuse holder with fuse with me on LG refer calls.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
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#11 frunch

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 11:31 AM

One question I've overlooked: what causes the fuse to blow? Is it due to power surges or brown-outs?

Thanks for the tip too, Samurai! That's a great idea!

#12 BryanS

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 12:11 PM

One question I've overlooked: what causes the fuse to blow? Is it due to power surges or brown-outs?

Thanks for the tip too, Samurai! That's a great idea!


That's what I figure it is. Most of the people I've come across said they had recent power outages or get a lot of brown outs.

One question I've overlooked: what causes the fuse to blow? Is it due to power surges or brown-outs?

Thanks for the tip too, Samurai! That's a great idea!


That's what I figure it is. Most of the people I've come across said they had recent power outages or get a lot of brown outs.





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