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Second-hand SubZero 650 Top/Bottom issues

subzero 650 not cooling over cooling compressor continous

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8 replies to this topic

#1 blondeindisguise

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 11:59 AM

OK, so hoping to find a little direction here.  We are having issues with our Subzero 650.  We bought it 4 years ago used at a steal of a deal ($350) on craigslist.  It's worked like a dream since then, although it was quite a bore to move into place and clean out.  The seals are definitely bad, and need replacing, but it does have suction and seems to seal up most the time, and I push on it when closing it to help encourage this.

 

Recently, after we were out of town visiting family for a week, the unit began to act up.  Here is a list of the symptoms:

 

The freezer reaches -30 (and beyond?) by the thermometer that I put in the drawer.  It maxes out at -30, so it's hard to tell, but it sounds like a deep arctic freeze when I open/close it.  It's a little scary! The digital display says -20 during this time, but I believe that is where it maxes out, as opposed to the -30.

 

The freezer compressor (the one on the left hand side when looking at the unit) makes a humming noise, runs for extremely long periods when the freeze occurs, and does not shut off when using the power button.  I have to turn the breaker off, or unplug the unit to get it to shut off.

 

I manually defrosted the freezer when this has occured, and then set the thermostat to only +5 to lessen the work load on the unit, and it will maintain that for awhile (usually) after I have let it completely defrost for several hours.

 

When the unit first started to act up, it leaked water from the little copper tube that is beneath the unit.  I think this is the water line for the ice maker, but I don't know.  It also put out lots of little "thingies" No idea what these little balls/itty bitty donut things are.

 

Our unit has always gurgled, but it often makes this sound MUCH louder than it used to.  It's intermittent.

 

The coil is clean, and yet from time to time the "VACCUUM CONDENSER" will flash.  I reset this by unplugging for 30 minutes after vaccuming again.  It has not come back in awhile, but it did come back even after the first attempts to clean and reset manually.

 

There is some condensation in the fridge, but I have *thought* I should attribute it to the bad seal.  The fridge fan works, but the light is out and I need to replace that switch. I accidentally swapped these, and almost shocked myself while using a butter knife to remove the two switches and do some testing.  The problems occured not long after this.  Maybe I've fried something???

 

So today the unit was working well, until the power went out on our street for maintenance.  I had just defrosted the unit yesterday because the compressor was running so long (I've been turning it off for periods during the day to give it a break when it does that).  After the power outage, the freezer is no longer able to keep cold.  It's 30 and climbing. 

 

Could it be the thermostat?  The control board?  Any other ideas?  Are these things I can trouble shoot and DIY?

 

Many thanks!! :)



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#2 blondeindisguise

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 12:03 PM

It just started cooling again... but obviously still very broken.  :(



#3 btenpin

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 08:33 PM

need a new computer control board freezer compressor relay stuck closed running constantly if running when turning off power button.

 

This wasn't uncommon for this series.  The vacuum condenser should come on if extended compressor run times.  Definitely need new seals if your getting condensation in the fresh food compartment.   The gurgling is probably the defrost drain line, partially from excessive condensation but should clean out with a steamer or just flush hot water through it with an old turkey baster.  

 

You can access the drain tube behind the drawers in the fresh food section take it off of the nipple of the trough and blow some steam or hot water through it clear it. 



#4 blondeindisguise

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Posted 15 August 2014 - 10:47 PM

Can you tell me where to get a new computer control board?  Could I DIY this removal & replacement?  Also, the compressor is no longer running constantly (for the time being) and the temp is where I set it to... ever since my post earlier this afternoon.  Could the bad computer control board be causing this?  Do I need a new compressor, or can I try swapping the control board first to see if that fixes?

 

Thank you!! :)



#5 btenpin

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Posted 16 August 2014 - 06:00 AM

Sub zero parts are only available through the manufacture.  In the hinge side door jam there should be a model/serial # tag you will need the serial # to get the correct part.  On that tag the phone # for Subzero is there also.

 

If the compressor is not currently running constantly, you could watch and see what happens, but more that likely it will occur again.

 

I don't know your capabilities, but replacing the computer is fairly simple.  It is located on the ceiling of the Fresh food section covered by the light diffuser.  Unplug or shut off breaker #1. 

 

Remove the plastic enclosure, take a picture with your phone.  Change wires one at a time from old board to new. Secure, cover and re power.

 

The compressor should be fine, although it's hard on them to run constantly like that.

 

Call Sub Zero for parts they may or may not offer some technical assistance, but at least should have instruction sheet with new part.  Electronic parts from them are NOT returnable.

 

You can just wait and see how it operates at this point.



#6 blondeindisguise

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 12:57 PM

OK thanks!! It's been running pretty well since, though the fridge display says 39, and my thermometer is saying it's closer to 30... so not perfect.  I am going to go ahead and order the control board to see if that helps.  Does this control the defrost mode and the thermostat? If not, perhaps the thermostat could also be a factor?



#7 beam current

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 03:16 PM

This website may help you also.

http://www.necertpar...order/index.asp

And please read this page:

http://www.necertpar.../swcustomer.asp
I think this will work. I once saw it on a cartoon.

Or, on the other hand.....

Troubleshooting the appliance's complex electro-mechanical systems is the methodology in which one must, by using analyitical techniques and the process of elimination, determine the cause or causes of a specific failure. Rarely does this cause of a failure directly present itself for you to see.

So.....

To be better equipped to troubleshoot, you will need:

1.) To follow this: Safety first and foremost. Trust your instincts.
2.) Basic hand tools.
3.) A decent DVOM meter. Buy one. Borrow one. You need one.
4.) Last, but certainty not least, common sense. Most of us have it. Slow down and use it.

Now, let's have some fun!

ZIG:
Hope is the power that gives a person the confidence to step out and try.
Success is the maximum utilization of the ability you have.

N.M.:
It always seems impossible until it's done.

#8 blondeindisguise

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 04:56 PM

Just noticed that there is a very thin layer of frost/ice forming in the middle of the back wall of the fresh food/refrigeration area.  What could this be from?  I have not had a chance to order or replace anything yet as we've just been dealing with a really difficult medical situation with my grandmother, so not sure if that could still be playing a role (the control board that is).

 

Thanks!!



#9 btenpin

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 07:10 AM

Don't know if you ever got this straightened out or not.  Your last post mentioned frost building on rear wall of Fresh Food section.  Which is an indication of a possible sealed system problem.  You will need a Pro to deal with that.  SubZero warranties there Sealed system parts only for 12 years you would be responsible for labor.

 

If you have already dealt with this sorry lost track of the thread

 

BT







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