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Whirlpool WTW5700XW0 temperature problem


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7 replies to this topic

#1 Dave Alan Lewis

Dave Alan Lewis

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Posted Yesterday, 06:52 PM

First post, and I want to say thanks in advance. I posted this on another website but nobody has replied.

Whirlpool Cabrio WTW5700XW0, 3 years old, never been serviced, never had a problem before now.

I noticed my washer was using warm/hot water on every cycle, so I did some tests today with a digital thermometer (after making sure the hoses hadn't been switched by our ghost).

Set my washer on Soak and let it fill on each setting. Temps were 122 degrees on every setting (Tap Cold, Cold, Cool, Warm, Hot).

So I shut off the hot water at the hose-bib and tried to run a Soak cycle using Tap Cold but it wouldn't fill. It just hummed until I turned on the hot water at the hose-bib and it started filling immediately.  Sounds like the cold water inlet valve from what I've read online, but I wanted to make sure before I threw money at the wrong part.  I saw a post about a similar model and problems with a temperature switch, but I don't know where mine is or how to check it (haven't got that far yet in my web searching).

Disconnected the cold water hose and checked the inlet screen but it was clear. Pointed hose into drum, turned on cold water hose-bib and pressure is fine.

What do I need to trouble-shoot next to diagnose this problem?

I really appreciate any help you all can give.
- Dave



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#2 JJ Surfer

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Posted Today, 01:35 AM

Get the tech sheet! It's inside the cabinet on the front. There's a trick to lifting the top. There are 2 1/4 inch screws that hold the lid to the hinge like brackets. There is one more screw that holds a cover. After removing these you can move the lid slightly forward and up and then back and it is released. Put it in diagnostic mode(turn main knob right left right right right left right) or something like that and then you can put it into manual test. This way you can test each component and check for error codes. You can test cold valve, hot etc. if cold valve works it cold be the thermistor (telling the control the wrong temps) or it could be the control. The tech manual has steps to help you diagnose all those.

#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted Today, 09:44 AM

This video shows you the basics for this machine:

 



#4 Dave Alan Lewis

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Posted Today, 02:43 PM

You guys are great, thanks.

 

So, got the tech sheet out, put the machine in Fault Code Display Mode.

The machine is displaying something that isn't in the code table in the tech sheet:  "F0 E0".

That makes me think there are no detected fault codes, is that correct?

 

- Dave



#5 Dave Alan Lewis

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Posted Today, 03:04 PM

Another update.  Really sorry for the two posts in a row.  Can't edit previous post.

 

Put the machine in Automatic Test Mode.  It cycled through each test with no problem.  During test 02-Cold Valve, water flowed just fine.

 

Put the machine into Manual Test Mode.  Selected test #01 Cold Valve.  Cold water flowed just fine.

 

- Dave



#6 Dave Alan Lewis

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Posted Today, 04:00 PM

At the risk of being banned from the site for frequent posts (please don't do that)...

After all the previous tests I selected a "Soak" cycle on "Tap Cold":  83 degrees.

Ran a "Soak" cycle on "Cold".  83 degrees.

Ran a "Soak" cycle on "Cool":  83 degrees.

Warm:  83 degrees.

Hot:  115 degrees.

 

I have a multimeter but it's old, it was cheap, and I don't know if I'd trust it.  Been wanting an excuse to get another one.  Is this it?  The only other relevant tests I see in the tech sheet are resistance readings of the valves and thermistor.  Am I correct in assuming this is the next step?

 

- Dave



#7 micabay

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Posted Today, 06:29 PM

At the risk of being banned from the site for frequent posts (please don't do that)...

After all the previous tests I selected a "Soak" cycle on "Tap Cold":  83 degrees.

Ran a "Soak" cycle on "Cold".  83 degrees.

Ran a "Soak" cycle on "Cool":  83 degrees.

Warm:  83 degrees.

Hot:  115 degrees.

 

I have a multimeter but it's old, it was cheap, and I don't know if I'd trust it.  Been wanting an excuse to get another one.  Is this it?  The only other relevant tests I see in the tech sheet are resistance readings of the valves and thermistor.  Am I correct in assuming this is the next step?

 

- Dave

1.) You never need an excuse to buy an awesome tool that can help you diagnose problems in the home.

2.) No need to Ohm the water valves, as they worked during the automatic and manual tests.

3.) You have done most of the trouble shooting on the Temperature Thermistor according to the tech sheet.  Just need to ohm out the thermistor and compare to the chart... to discover weather you have a bad thermistor or a back control....

4.)  If you really like spending money, you can shot gun it and replace both the thermistor and control.... or you can save some money and buy your self that handy dandy multimeter you've been wanting an excuse to buy  ;-)

 

Good luck,

MicaBay



#8 Dave Alan Lewis

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Posted Today, 08:04 PM

1)  True.   :wink:

2)  Roger that.

3)  Unplugged J3.  Just for the heck of it I traced the wires and found the thermistor.  Really easy to access.  Resistance at thermistor was right on the money:  48.9k at about 79 degrees.  Tested at J3 connector, got the same reading.  So what exactly is a "back control"?

4)  Ended up buying a little Extech that did the job nicely.

 

So after plugging J3 back in and putting the control panel back plate on, I reconnected power and did a Calibration (hey, might as well, right?).  Then I ran another set of Soak cycles at each temp setting.  Water temps were...

Tap Cold:  83.5

Cold:  83.5

Cool:  83.5

Warm:  83.5

Hot:  117

 

Well, it's not doing what it was when I wrote my first post (using hot water on every cycle).  But the temps don't seem to make sense to me either.  Where can I find the temp ranges it's supposed to be hitting in each of those settings?  Am I just getting these numbers because my tap water here in AZ is on the warm side?






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