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KSS42FMX02 Refrigerator - Can't locate replacement motherboard


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11 replies to this topic

#1 frunch

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 12:13 PM

I checked out a built-in Kitchen Aid refrig the other day where the compressor is not running at all. It has an inverter board that is not getting power from the motherboard. According to the schematic, it should be getting 3-6 volts ac, but I got nothing. 120 volts is coming into the motherboard, but no volts out to the inverter. Based on that, I'm assuming we're dealing with a bad motherboard. However, it's been a hell of a time finding the replacement motherboard. Tried most major vendors, but no luck yet. Sears claims to have one, but after talking to them, we found out they will only give it to one of their techs for a repair. So, we're stuck. Any chance someone might be able to point me to a vendor that has one? Oh, and we checked ebay, and someone wants $900 for it... :woot: 

Here's the (newer) part number: W10219463, original part number is 2307028.....worst case scenario, we may have to sent the board to Corecentric for repair. We were hoping to fix it sooner than that would take though.

 

Any chance someone knows where we could find one? The customer is willing to cover over-night shipping if we can get it soon.

 

Thanks!



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#2 PDuff

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 12:52 PM

No sir.  Both part numbers are listed among CoreCentrics' repairable boards.  Might have to advise the customer that they'll have to wait (without refrigeration) to have the part sent for repair.  They won't be happy but consider the alternative.



#3 lvasquez11

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 01:09 PM

you can find them on ebay  or ship them out to me for repair 


check this blog out   stevejenkins.com  .  find a local tv repair shop n have then replace cap on brd 



#4 frunch

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 02:06 PM

Thanks for the responses, guys! Fortunately they have another refrig, so it's not a real emergency. Does it sound like the motherboard is the culprit, given the info I've obtained?

Also ivasquez11, you mentioned a capacitor that should be replaced, any more info you may be able to share with me regarding that?

#5 BryanS

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 05:40 PM

I believe the little connector is supposed to be 3-6 volts DC not AC. It's been awhile since I checked one. If you have the 120vac and 3-6vdc at the inverter connectors then go with the inverter.

#6 frunch

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 06:05 PM

I was thinking the same thing, BryanS. I took pics of the schematic though, and it does say 3-6 ac volts. I probably should have checked dc volts at the connector anyway to rule out an error with the schematic, but hadn't thought to. Does seem odd to use ac volts to run the invertor board, but I guess they had their reasons... unless of course, the schematic is wrong...

#7 MicaBay

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 06:12 PM

I was thinking the same thing, BryanS. I took pics of the schematic though, and it does say 3-6 ac volts. I probably should have checked dc volts at the connector anyway to rule out an error with the schematic, but hadn't thought to. Does seem odd to use ac volts to run the invertor board, but I guess they had their reasons... unless of course, the schematic is wrong...

Any chance you'd be able to post those pics of the schematic?  I agree with Bryan, typically it is 3-6volts DC....  but its hard saying with different machines.



#8 frunch

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 07:48 PM

Here's a pic of the schematic that I took, I drew a box around the section where the inverter is...I have other pics of the sheets too--if it helps I can post the others!

Attached Files


Edited by frunch, 21 August 2014 - 07:51 PM.


#9 BryanS

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 08:15 PM

Wouldn't be the first time a schematic was wrong lol. Like I said it's been awhile since I checked one, so it may very well be AC voltage. For some reason the little one being DC was the first thing that clicked in my mind. I do see other wires on that same P7 connector being DC, and no other connector shows mixed voltages on the same connector.

Edited by BryanS, 21 August 2014 - 08:19 PM.


#10 frunch

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 09:04 PM

Good point, Bryan! I really wish I checked the wires for DC now! In fact I'm probably going to try to get back over there tomorrow to check that again. It would be great if I can fix it without having to track down a replacement board, or send the current one for repair. I was just recalling a time I was checking an auger motor in a Whirlpool refrig with ice in the door, and after checking for 120v to the auger motor and seeing 0, I thought the motor was ok, and we'd have to replace the control board. But then I looked at the motor specs again and realized it was 120v DC! Ever since, I've tried to be mindful of that distinction...it would be funny if it turned out the voltage has been there all along, and I just wasn't 'seeing' it. I will certainly follow up when I get more info...



#11 BryanS

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 09:23 PM

I did the same thing with that 120vdc auger motor lol. Tech support told me it's 120 vdc and not ac. I was thinking it was a control board issue and at the time we had to call for board authorizations. I guess that saved me a misdiagnosis.

#12 frunch

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Posted 03 September 2014 - 01:48 PM

Well, the schematic was wrong after all! 3-6 volts DC was what I should have been looking for. Put a new inverter in and the compressor started running as it was supposed to! now that it is running, however, it's not getting cold! All the fans are running, compressor is running...looks like a probable freon leak??! :woot: 

Unfortunately, we don't do any compressor/freon repairs so it looks like we're going to have to send it along to another company. Sheesh!  :blinky: 

Thanks to all who chimed in here, you guys are the best!






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