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GE Arctica SxS FF door pops open when closing freezer door PSC23MGPABB


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Sunlight Appliance

Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 12 September 2014 - 11:29 PM

Hi all,

 

FF temp: 50, Freezer temps 5 at top and 25 at bottom

Compressor running and only drawing .93 amps

Frost pattern: Frosted from bottom until about 1/3 from the top where it is not frosted

 

Model # PSC23MGPABB

 

I responded to my client's "warming temperatures" issue and isolated all 4 thermistors (chilled them down for 5+ minutes and tested them at the J1 harness connector).

 

This box has been worked on in the past. Two of the thermistors were updated from black to white and the motherboard was replaced.

 

Tonight, the 2 old style thermistors tested way out of wack while 1 of the updated thermistors was in the clear, but, the other was on the line. So, easy enough, right? Change the three in question.

 

However, there is a 2nd issue regarding the FF door. The freezer door seals well with plenty of vacuum, but, the FF door lacks this vacuum and pops open every time the freezer door is closed. The gasket on the FF door is in excellent shape and there are no obstructions. Doing the dollar bill test yields the same pressure all the way around: It's just kinda weak everywhere.

 

Is this an air pressure problem? Perhaps the condensate drain is clogged and air can't move down it when the doors are closed? Could it be that since the air temp in the FF side is at 50 instead of 30 there is not enough vacuum pressure to hold the door closed?

 

Any reason to be concerned about the frost pattern? 2/3 of the evaporator is frosted. No visible evidence of leakage such as a ball of ice at the point where the frost stops. My thought was perhaps the corrupted data from the thermistors to the board could have been causing the board to run the compressor less.


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, 13 September 2014 - 01:05 AM.

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#2 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 03:58 AM

Is evap fan running with sufficient power? Did you test rpms of fan at the board?


First step in door closing problems, remove all food on shelf edges, and on door shelves. Door shelves may be hitting compartment shelves or food on shelves.

Also check your damper and return vent


For other door closing advice, see http://appliantology...em/#entry257756

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 13 September 2014 - 04:14 AM.

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#3 Sunlight Appliance

Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 12:37 PM

Thank you.

 

Is evap fan running with sufficient power? Did you test rpms of fan at the board?

 

Yes.

 

 

First step in door closing problems, remove all food on shelf edges, and on door shelves. Door shelves may be hitting compartment shelves or food on shelves.

 

Not this.

 

 

For other door closing advice, see http://appliantology...em/#entry257756

 

I doubt it's any of these but I will check again. Do you think the frost pattern is any cause for alarm? 2/3 of the evaporator is frosted. Upper 1/3 will not frost in present condition.


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, 13 September 2014 - 12:43 PM.

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#4 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 04:50 PM

What is laser therm temp of the upper 1/3?

I am confused regarding your diagnosis. Is this the result after you replaced the sensors? If so, did you give it sufficient time with the evap cover in place? Is it a rush to judgment?

The list and suggestions regarding the door issue is lengthy and to say you doubt any of those could be the problem without at first checking them is interesting indeed. Another possible rush in judgment?

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 13 September 2014 - 05:23 PM.

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#5 Sunlight Appliance

Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 06:39 PM

What is laser therm temp of the upper 1/3?

 

27F

 

 

I am confused regarding your diagnosis. Is this the result after you replaced the sensors? If so, did you give it sufficient time with the evap cover in place? Is it a rush to judgment?

 

Haven't replaced the sensors yet. I don't want my client to throw money away if there is a sealed system leak. When I arrived I took the back cover off and saw this frost pattern. Lasered the frosted area at 0F and unfrosted area at 27F.

 

 

The list and suggestions regarding the door issue is lengthy and to say you doubt any of those could be the problem without at first checking them is interesting indeed. Another possible rush in judgment?

 

I have the tendency to rush. This is something I try to keep under control. But, I found and studied your list before going out on this call. I checked for these things already. I will recheck when I go back.


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, 13 September 2014 - 07:39 PM.

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#6 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 08:38 PM

you have two thermistors out of tolerance... which ones? I think you are over thinking the temp issue.

a bad thermistor can create those temp issues. If the compressor seems okay, you have no choice but to replace the failed thermistors. A quintessential rule in appliance repair is to fix the obvious problems first. You must replace those thermistors before you can proceed further.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

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#7 Sunlight Appliance

Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 08:53 PM

you have two thermistors out of tolerance... which ones? I think you are over thinking the temp issue.

 

Freezer and Fresh Food.

 

 

a bad thermistor can create those temp issues. If the compressor seems okay, you have no choice but to replace the failed thermistors. A quintessential rule in appliance repair is to fix the obvious problems first. You must replace those thermistors before you can proceed further.

 

OK. Cool. I will replace them and post back.


STOP building government and START building business. :miner:


#8 Sunlight Appliance

Sunlight Appliance

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Posted Today, 02:38 AM

Hi,

 

I returned to install the 3 new thermistors. The next day I returned again to measure the temperatures with the laser thermometer. Had -5F in the freezer and 41F in the FF compartment top shelf, and 36F middle shelf. Inside the crisper drawers it was even colder. At the same time the digital display was reading -6 and 34. The compressor was off at that moment.

 

There is no food in the unit at present because the home is a vacation rental and the last bunch of tenants have gone. Pulling the evaporator cover off revealed the evaporator was hardly frosted and the upper 1/3 of it was warmer (lasering 30F). However, the ice maker is making plenty of ice and, as long as the cover is on, the panels are lasering -5 or even colder.

 

What I'm concerned about is when the new tenants arrive and stuff the fridge with their own food, temps will rise inside and they will complain that their goods are thawing/going bad (like the last tenants did).

 

The FF door is sealing very tightly now that the last tenants have gone. All the hardware is in good condition too.

 

Thoughts?


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, Today, 02:42 AM.

STOP building government and START building business. :miner:


#9 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

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Posted Today, 07:22 AM

At those temps, everything seems good. Maybe the fridge just came out of defrost when you checked the evap. This is a perfect situation where a data logger would be helpful.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

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#10 Sunlight Appliance

Sunlight Appliance

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Posted Today, 09:56 PM

Ok, thank you Durham. If I don't post back, it all turned out well.

 

I will look into data loggers.


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