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Model No. PFS22SISBSS


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34 replies to this topic

#1 Steven Gaffney

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 11:32 AM

I bought this GE Profile “French Door” fridge on Craigslist for $125.  I was looking for an inexpensive garage/2nd fridge.  It was more than I wanted to pay, but I wasn't finding anything decent, so when I found this, I thought I would move our fridge to the garage, and use this as our primary.  When I got it home and washed it thoroughly, brought it in and plugged it in, it didn't cool at all.  Lights, and the evaporator fan, and it seems to be doing the “Hum, Click Cha-Cha”. 
Before putting any more money into it (especially in light of the dismal repair reviews on this model), I want to do due diligence. I don’t want to spend hundreds to get this thing going.
I've pulled the relay, there is a very little rattle to it, but not like in the videos.  There is a sticker on it reads: EECON TSD – 115/127V – 60 Hz- Y

Does this mean that it is a TSD?
If it IS a TSD could this relay still be the issue? 

I followed the Appliance Parts Pros link.  If it is the relay do I need the P.t.c. + Olp Asm (part # Part number: AP4300623

Part number: AP4300623

) or the Overload/relay (part # Part number: AP3796033

Part number: AP3796033
)???

The condenser fan wasn't running either, but could that be because the compressor isn't running? Or is this another issue that I should be concerned about?

Are there any other tests I can do on it?  For instance, can I test the motherboard in some way?

Thanks for any help.

steven



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#2 BryanS

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 09:29 PM

Part number: ap4300623

Part number: ap4300623



The overload and relay assy is what I would try.
If your relay looks like the one posted above, then they don't usually rattle when they go bad. J2 connector pin 3 and 5 is where you check for voltage to the condensor fan motor.


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 28 September 2014 - 10:11 PM.


#3 BryanS

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 09:33 PM

Part number: ap4436216

Part number: ap4436216

Main board is a common failure on GE refrigerators. Fans can run slow due to a bad board. You may also find burn marks on the back of the motherboard, which is usually the part that runs the compressor.



#4 Steven Gaffney

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 02:01 PM

ok, Thanks.  Soooo....  I'm a complete novice... please use small words and easy to understand instructions. 
1. you referenced  P.t.c. + Olp Asm (part # AP4300623) but you are saying I should to buy the Overload/relay (part # AP3796033) , right?  

2. What/Where is the "J2 connector pin 3 and 5"

 

3. and what should the voltage be? and the fridge must be plugged in to test this, right?  and does it matter that I have the relay pulled when I plug it in/test?
 

4. ALSO... (perhaps I should have mentioned this from the start) the digital temperature display (Appliance Parts Pros calls it Pwb Assembly Display - Part # AP3855824) was working intermittently...   In other words, the fridge would be on but the displays would be blank sometimes.  

 

    A.  Could these issues be connected?  

    B.  Would this be an issue in the Pwb Assembly Display, or more likely an issue with the main control board? 

Thanks again for your help and for  S P E A K I N G    S L O W L Y  with single syllable words so I can understand.  
 



#5 Steven Gaffney

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 02:27 PM

Is there a service manual or anything that would tell me what voltage outputs should be? including diagrams and stuff? 
Thanks



#6 BryanS

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 05:26 PM

Yes, the relay/overload assembly I posted is the same thing ptc/Ol. J2 connector is on the board. You count from the top of the connector to the bottom. That is how you find pin 3 and 5. I don't know if your meter leads will fit inside the connector. I use a set of needle point leads when I check. You could in a pinch, tape sewing needles to the end of your meter leads with electrical tape. I believe you should 8-12vdc to the condensor motor. When did the display go out? Is the display inside the fridge or on the dispenser? The display could go out if you have a shorted fan motor. I've only had that happen on side by side ge model. There are some good generic ge troubleshooting files on here, but I believe you need to upgrade to download them.

Edited by BryanS, 26 September 2014 - 05:27 PM.


#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 07:03 PM

 Lights, and the evaporator fan, and it seems to be doing the “Hum, Click Cha-Cha”. 
 

 

"Seems to be" or IS doing the hum click cha cha?  

 

Didn't catch the part about the lights and evap fan-- are they working or not?



#8 Steven Gaffney

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Posted 28 September 2014 - 09:48 PM

thx much.  I ordered the part via the link.  we'll see if it does the trick!  thanks again



#9 johntech

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Posted 29 September 2014 - 07:32 AM

Remember to check out the fans before you put the board in To prevent damage to the new board.

#10 BEdwards

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Posted 30 September 2014 - 09:31 PM

I had this same model the other day having the same symptoms. The clicking was coming from the motherboard. The display was not working and the condenser fan was not working. New main board fixed all the problems.

 

Part number: AP4436216

Part number: AP4436216


Edited by BEdwards, 30 September 2014 - 09:33 PM.


#11 Steven Gaffney

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 04:12 PM

@Shōgun.  I say   'seems' because of my untrained ear.  There was a hum for a few seconds followed by some clicks and then quiet for a few minutes then rinse and repeat. (keep in mind, this is a TSD) never got cool at all although the lights and the evap fan were both working.  The temp display would come on intermittently but not the condenser fan.  

ANY whooo,  I got the new overload/relay (Part Number Part number: AP3796033

Part number: AP3796033

) but I can't seem to get the old one out of the  P.t.c. + Olp Asm (Part number: AP4300623

Part number: AP4300623
).  I don't want to damage the part i'm not replacing....

 


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 01 October 2014 - 10:30 PM.


#12 BEdwards

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 04:19 PM

Clicking is coming from start relay on main board

#13 Steven Gaffney

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 07:51 PM

ok, well, based on all the tests and information that I was reading / watching lead me to believe that the overload/relay was the most likely the problem, so that's what i purchased, and that's what I have.  So far I've managed to pull the "tabs/wings" off of the old overload/relay trying to remove it from the Ptc. I finally wrestled the top off of the Ptc so i could see inside, but am still unable to get the overload/relay out.   Are there any tips to removing the overload relay from the Ptc without totally destroying it?  

I did pull the mother board inspected it and did not find any black or burned marks.  I also tested the J2 connector and found the correct voltage.  



#14 BryanS

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 07:53 PM

I don't understand why you are trying to pull the overload out. The gray relay I linked above comes with the relay and overload together.

#15 Steven Gaffney

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 12:37 AM

BryanS, This is why i tried to clarify above.  The part i purchased is the Overload/relay (part # Part number: AP3796033

Part number: AP3796033

)  according to appliancepartspros.com.  I did NOT purchase  Part number: AP4300623

Part number: AP4300623
 

 

 

I'm trying insert pictures, but I can't figure out how.



#16 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 02:49 AM

What you have is just an overload... It is not a start device relay . Appliancepartspros calls it an "overload/relay" meaning it is an overload relay ie overload protection relay. The aforementioned is a fancy technical name for what we generally call "the overload" but Appliancepartspros, by calling it an "overload/relay," may simply be indicating it is the overload part of a start relay device or alluding to its technical name

Either way, it is not the start relay. The gray ptc start relay is a start relay and overload combined. That gray ptc is the part you need. If your fridge has the two part separate relay and overload (Yours does not!) then you would need the part you have, even though that still will not fix your problem as more than likely the start relay part of the start device is your problem... not the overload. Unless, of course, it's the board.


did you localize the clicking sound? If not at the compressor, then it would be the board. I wouid say, however, if you bought that fridge for only $125....good luck.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 02 October 2014 - 08:10 AM.

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#17 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 03:28 AM


Is there a service manual or anything that would tell me what voltage outputs should be? including diagrams and stuff?
Thanks

certainly! But you must be an apprentice first see http://appliantology...nticeships.html

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 02 October 2014 - 08:05 AM.

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#18 BryanS

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 05:43 AM

Well, I linked you the whole assembly needed above. Like Durham said, that is jjust the overload. The overload is just a safety in case of high amp draw from a locked compressor, bad start relay, or a quick power outage. They rarely go bad. The gray part of the assembly is the start relay which is what goes bad. It is required to start the compressor.
You may very well need a board as well. I've had a handful of ge's that had a bad start device as well as a board.

#19 Steven Gaffney

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 01:10 PM

Thanks everyone.  @Durham!  Thank you very much!  As mentioned above, I am a novice and perhaps a bit slow, but some how you've managed to communicate with me so that I think I understand!  ;-)

I will try to localize the clicking and then will need to decide if it's worth it to spend $150(to start) on a board for a fridge that I only spent $125 for that only has received negative reviews on service issues...  I will return the part I ordered and consider...

ps. not that it really matters, but I still really don't understand why they sell that part separately for my model :-/



#20 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 08:59 PM

I still really don't understand why they sell that part separately for my model :-/


That's a valid point as it can easily lead to confusion. I would venture to guess that you could put anstandard brown style two holed relay (they can be universal) and if you do, you must use that overload (unlike the relay, overloads are more specific and certain compressors need a specific rated overload. This is just a guess... but I wondered the same when I saw it listed. The other explanation is that it simply is a mistake.

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