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Drain motor on HE3t not getting power

HE3t drain motor drain

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10 replies to this topic

#1 brucemc777

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Posted 14 October 2014 - 09:57 PM

Hello Everyone!

 

Last time I was here I could have sworn it was the Samurai site, so I guess it's been a bit-

 

My clothes washer, a Kenmore HE3t, purchased in 2002.

 

I recently replaced the drain motor, which had started to fail but would run (well, rather flounder, but it would try to run).

 

I still had problems of very slow draining. I found in the rubber boot that runs from the back of the pump assembly up to the tub we had a massive amount of junk - enough to clog the ball valve and then perhaps several more times over, besides the two children's socks in there (Yes, at one point I had to replace the large boot that seals off the tub).

 

Before this discovery there were many multiple consecutive attempts at spin-drain - I mention this for though not likely, it is possible that I fried the new non-OEM motor.

 

Now that the huge clog is removed I find the washer not operating; I had numerous various error codes such as FH and F02 and SUDS and so on, all pointing towards the drainaige system (FH can also be problems with the anti-siphon as I read, not only cold water pressure or pressure sensor).

 

I ran the diagnostic and found everything operating correctly EXCEPT the drain pump not engaging. I hooked in the other old drain-pump and found it was not even turning on either - neither had so much as the hum of energized coils.

 

I did have to wrestle almost violently when dealing with those horrible spring hose clamps (If curses take hold, I regret the amount I cursed those who chose sping clamps for this purpose instead of screw clamps; I must get clamp pliers) that secure the rubber boot from the pump assembly to the tub, so I tried to check all connections. They appear correct and secure throughout the washer, but I can not be 100% certain.

 

What would cause electricity to not flow to the pump and how should I proceed to test this/these?

 

And other thoughts on the matter?

 

Please forgive my urgency, not only have I my wife, but four teen-aged daughters to deal with.



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#2 MicaBay

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Posted 14 October 2014 - 11:53 PM

Welp, there are many trained hands with these machines but we'll need a good model number off your machine, usually located on the door jam, in order to give you good, solid advice.



#3 applianceman97

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Posted 14 October 2014 - 11:54 PM

As Mica said the model number is behind the door. Please post model.

 

 

First thing you want to do is get a multimeter and check for 120v AC at the pump connector. If the drain motor windings are "open" then you will not get a hum at the drain motor. (You can't always go by sounds) You can check continuity (see if the motor is open) of the drain pump with your multimeter. If no voltage is present at pump connector, check for broken wires. You can also do your voltage reading at the main board to confirm 120v AC is not present when drain motor is energized. Replace CCU if pump, wiring and all other tests are ok.


Edited by applianceman97, 15 October 2014 - 10:33 AM.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#4 brucemc777

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 06:17 PM

Model number 110.42936.200

 

Sorry I mistook whatever HE3t is for a model number. Interesting feeling, getting warnings and points from two different moderators over the same error. Put me in my place.



#5 applianceman97

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 09:52 PM

Sorry. The extra warning was my mistake. Sorry for the confusion.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#6 applianceman97

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 10:01 PM

Let us know what you find.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#7 brucemc777

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Posted 16 October 2014 - 07:24 PM

Diagnostic test with voltmeter hooked in where drain pump was:

 

1: 120

2: 104

3: 120

4: 104

5: 120

6: 104

7: 104

8: 104

 

Figures are rounded to the nearest 10 except the 104 readings as they were repetitive, and I pressed the button to advance. THere were times within a cycle if I let run that the voltage would vary between minimal (less than 3) the low 60's, the low 80's and the 104 and 120 readings.

 

The motor was just replaced - do these things come in lemon also?



#8 MicaBay

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Posted 18 October 2014 - 11:43 PM

Diagnostic test with voltmeter hooked in where drain pump was:

1: 120
2: 104
3: 120
4: 104
5: 120
6: 104
7: 104
8: 104

Figures are rounded to the nearest 10 except the 104 readings as they were repetitive, and I pressed the button to advance. THere were times within a cycle if I let run that the voltage would vary between minimal (less than 3) the low 60's, the low 80's and the 104 and 120 readings.

The motor was just replaced - do these things come in lemon also?

. Well those motors are big and heavy. Since it was just replaced, I would be looking for damaged wiring. If you get a Soild 120volts at the board, for the drain circuit, it could only be the wiring causing funky readings down at the pump.

Edited by MicaBay, 18 October 2014 - 11:44 PM.


#9 brucemc777

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Posted Yesterday, 02:59 PM

Readings were taken at the connector that connects to the motor. Would someone be able to show/advise just where on what board I could take readings to see if I get anything different?

 

Also, if I use a lamp cord and run 120 direct to the motor, if it runs does that then tell me that the motor is good but for some reason the machine/controlling board is not providing enough amperage, or, accepting all safety is taken, is it unadvisable to run 120 from wall to motor for some reason such as hitting it with too much current??



#10 brucemc777

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Posted Yesterday, 07:52 PM

Also: I just took the old motor and ran a lamp cord to it. Though sporadic, it runs. Can I have voltage but not enough current? Once again; can anyone tell me 1)Which board and 2) which connector to test, and should I be testing for something besides voltage, or would having voltage but not running the motor be enought to condemn the board if I jump the motor to the board with wires I can rely upon?



#11 brucemc777

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Posted Today, 07:26 PM

So I thought it was significant in my first post that the old motor that ran poorly did not run at all now; I guess it was. I have hooked both motors up to a lamp cord and they run; the first, poorly and the new one quite well.

 

Now that we know it is NOT the motor, is there ANYTHING WHATSOEVER that could be the problem other than the wires or the control board. That is all I ask.







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