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Bosch WAS24460uc drum noise


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14 replies to this topic

#1 edhart

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Posted 10 November 2014 - 03:12 PM

The drum of my washer is making a clunking noise when spinning, I have removed the pulley and it does not feel like a bearing, more like something broke between the inner and outer drum housing. I looked for the service manual, but it does not cover drum removal/ repair. Any info would be helpful.



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#2 Applianceman97

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 12:21 AM

Super secret samurai technique for checking a bearing failure.
http://appliantology...er/?hl=bearings

If bearings check good then it's possible the tub spider (inner tub support) is broken. This would require a new outer drum shell and new inner spin basket to repair. Very costly.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#3 edhart

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 12:55 PM

OK, so the inner drum moves independent  of the outer drum, is there a manual that shows the replacement procedure?  There are different parts listed: complete drum assembly, rear drum,& front drum, would they all need to be replaced or is the drum assembly the whole enchillada ?



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 05:27 PM

You will need the new bearing set to be installed in the outer tub Part number: 00619808

Part number: 00619808

 

And you'll need the inner basket assembly Part number: 00744283

Part number: 00744283



#5 edhart

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 08:28 PM

Thanks for the links, is there another manual that covers removal and replacement of the drum?
Ed

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 November 2014 - 06:07 PM

The powerpoint training presentation covers that: Bosch Axxis Washer Power Point Training Presentation 



#7 edhart

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 07:45 AM

I have replaced the drum and bearings but now the washer isn't letting any water in and throws code f17, what are the most likely things that I screwed up? Is it possible to reverse the wire connectors black and pink on the front fascia, and would this cause it?

Ed



#8 edhart

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 12:40 PM

Quick update, we only have cold water hooked up to the washer, but if I set the wash temp to hot or warm the cold water solenoid opens and lets water in for the wash cycle. What did I monkey up?

The black and pink plugs look very similar, however I was not able to swap them, they just don't line up afaict.

Ed



#9 edhart

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 11:44 AM

Update part Duh
I was able to swap the pink and black connectors but it did not make any difference.
Momma is not happy, looking for ideas, or at least some insulation for the doghouse that I am in brrrr.

#10 edhart

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 12:33 PM

Anyone?

#11 MicaBay

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Posted 02 December 2014 - 09:34 AM

F17 seems to be an Inlet valve error. In one of your updates, you say you only have cold water hooked up.  Can/have you hooked up the hot water also?

 

A tub and bearing job is very extensive as you now know.  You have almost laid you hands on every component of the machine.  I would be checking each and every connections to make sure none are loose.  Are you getting full 120VAC from the outlet you plug the machine into?



#12 edhart

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Posted 02 December 2014 - 09:52 AM

Only cold is plumbed in, we previously had an Asko in that location.
I tried to connect the water to the hot inlet in hopes that the control module was opening the opposite valve. But that did not have any effect.
Also just inspected the connections and everything seems to be intact. I will check for the correct voltage at the outlet on the dryer.
I am very tempted to order the control module and at least be able to eliminate that. The cost of throwing parts at this machine is making my wife very unhappy. The trips to my inlaws for clean clothes are not making me very happy.

#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 December 2014 - 10:21 AM

Only cold is plumbed in, we previously had an Asko in that location.
I tried to connect the water to the hot inlet in hopes that the control module was opening the opposite valve. 

 

Was this location plumbed this way (only cold) with the washer installed and running correctly before the drum replacement?



#14 edhart

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Posted 02 December 2014 - 10:33 AM

Yes
The only way that the washer will fill now is if the temp is set to warm or hot, then the cold water solenoid will open the valve. Where as before the drum repair it would throw an error code if any temp other than cold was selected.
Thanks for your reply

#15 edhart

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Posted Today, 01:39 PM

Latest Update

I have swapped the control module, power module, and inlet/magnetic valve all to no avail.

I have some voltage at the inlet valve during wash and rinse cycles, does anyone know what it should it be?

Also the water pressure is fine.

 

Does anyone have any experience with this machine?

 

The next step is to either give in to my wife and buy a new top loader, which would mean also buying a new dryer and scratching the plans to move them under counter,  or call in a pro for diagnostics.

HELP






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