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WTW5640XWD Help- F7E1 Error Code on Cabrio Washer


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7 replies to this topic

#1 burchis

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Posted Yesterday, 05:37 PM

I have replaced the Shifter Assy but no fix.  The drum turns freely but will not spin under manual test.  Instead just a hum and then test cycle ends and flashing lid light on.  I am leaning towards bad run capacitor but would like to hear from others that have had issues with these Whirlpool Cabrio models.

 

Thanks for any and all help.



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#2 BryanS

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Posted Yesterday, 06:03 PM

http://appliantology...washer-wfw9150/

Does this topic help out all with testing? It would be best to test the capacitor with a capacitor tester.

#3 applianceman97

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Posted Yesterday, 07:25 PM

Check for a broken wire in the big red spool of wire under the tub. Usually it will break where the zip ties are. Have seen this a few times


Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

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#4 burchis

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Posted Today, 07:38 AM

I will check red spool wire and the harness from main board for integrity.  I am curious to know what the purpose is with the red coiled up wire.  Is it an inductive type sensor or something else?

 

Would a defective shift assembly prevent the main drive from turning while performing manual test mode #9, or does this manual test bypass the  shift assembly circuitry and directly engage the drive motor?

 

Just to confirm what I should be seeing in a manual test mode; in test #9 (low spin) should I actual see the main drive motor turning the drum.  What I am getting is nothing just momentary flashing lid lock light.  Same result with manual test #10, 11, 12.  However when in auto test, at test sequence number 9, I get a motor hum and very slight belt movement and also notice the drum slightly moving as if there is a little motor torque.

 

 



#5 MicaBay

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Posted Today, 09:06 AM

I will check red spool wire and the harness from main board for integrity. I am curious to know what the purpose is with the red coiled up wire. Is it an inductive type sensor or something else?

Would a defective shift assembly prevent the main drive from turning while performing manual test mode #9, or does this manual test bypass the shift assembly circuitry and directly engage the drive motor?

Just to confirm what I should be seeing in a manual test mode; in test #9 (low spin) should I actual see the main drive motor turning the drum. What I am getting is nothing just momentary flashing lid lock light. Same result with manual test #10, 11, 12. However when in auto test, at test sequence number 9, I get a motor hum and very slight belt movement and also notice the drum slightly moving as if there is a little motor torque.

I have found on these machines, once you read an error code, it must be cleared in order to run some manual test. For instance, if you indeed had a failure with your shift actuator/speed sensor, the computer wouldn't spin in manual test, even after replacing the part, untill you clear out the error codes. N

Also, all other advice is good too.

#6 burchis

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Posted Today, 12:26 PM

I have check all of the wiring and all is good.  I cleared the error code and started again with calibration and then auto test.  Still came back with F7E1 code.  I unpluged the run capacitor and shorted across the terminals and did not notice any spark like you normally would expect.  Did this a couple of times after running through auto test mode which should of charged the capacitor.  Still no charge on the capacitor.  Anyone have any ideas?



#7 BryanS

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Posted Today, 12:35 PM

I have check all of the wiring and all is good. I cleared the error code and started again with calibration and then auto test. Still came back with F7E1 code. I unpluged the run capacitor and shorted across the terminals and did not notice any spark like you normally would expect. Did this a couple of times after running through auto test mode which should of charged the capacitor. Still no charge on the capacitor. Anyone have any ideas?


Most capacitors discharge automatically on newer appliances. I've never seen one spark on anything I've worked on from appliances to hvac equipment. I still check for safety reasons. If you don't have a capacitor tester you can use an analog multimeter. When you test for ohms across the capacitor the needle should spike up and then back down. Basically it's showing that it is charging and discharging. Personally, I've never tested this way, but I've read about it. I just use a meter with a capacitor tester built in. Fluke 116

Edited by BryanS, Today, 12:36 PM.


#8 burchis

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Posted Today, 05:10 PM

Can anyone comment on my previous post shown below?

 

I will check red spool wire and the harness from main board for integrity.  I am curious to know what the purpose is with the red coiled up wire.  Is it an inductive type sensor or something else?

 

Would a defective shift assembly prevent the main drive from turning while performing manual test mode #9, or does this manual test bypass the  shift assembly circuitry and directly engage the drive motor?

 

Just to confirm what I should be seeing in a manual test mode; in test #9 (low spin) should I actual see the main drive motor turning the drum.  What I am getting is nothing just momentary flashing lid lock light.  Same result with manual test #10, 11, 12.  However when in auto test, at test sequence number 9, I get a motor hum and very slight belt movement and also notice the drum slightly moving as if there is a little motor torque.






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