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ZICS36NABRH (2002) - Defrost timer replaced but not advancing

ZICS36NABRH Defrost Timer

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10 replies to this topic

#1 linkousk

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 06:26 PM

Hi:

 

A couple months ago, I noticed the refrigerator section of our ZICS36NABRH was warmer than usual.  A check of the freezer section showed the evaporator coil completely iced up.  I needed an immediate fix and removed the back panel and defrosted carefully with a heat gun without further action or diagnosis.

 

A few weeks later the problem reoccurred.  This time I manually advanced the defrost timer and successfully defrosted the unit to completion.  I figured that meant the defrost heater and defrost thermostat were good.  That was the extent of my diagnostics.  I replaced the defrost timer.

 

Now the problem has reoccurred.  I manually advanced the defrost timer, and again the unit defrosted.  This time I put a mark on the timer to see if it is moving (I assume this is a simple mechanical switch that goes around in a circle).  No movement was noted and the defrost cycle did not end (the compressor did not come back on) after 45 minutes.  I do hear what sounds like a timer clicking.

 

I have a letter from GE "welcoming" the original owner to the "GE family" dated 2002 so I assume this unit was built in 2002 or earlier.

 

I checked the wiring harnesses in the upper section for proper physical connection.  FWIW, this problem may have started when I vacuumed the condenser coil and upper section.  I was careful when doing this but may have bumped something.

 

Any ideas greatly appreciated!

 

 



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#2 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 06:54 PM

Check the black and orange wire at the timer for 120vac. If you aren't getting it, it looks like your problem would be on the orange (neutral) line since Black (L1) is properly relayed to Compressor/heater when the timer is manually advanced.

gallery_51884_80_48552.png

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 20 January 2015 - 07:24 PM.

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#3 linkousk

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 11:35 PM

Thank you for the reply.  I have voltage on the orange wire measured from the rear of the wire connector to the timer.  I'll cinch up the orange wire connection to the timer lug and see what happens.



#4 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 11:48 PM

what voltage do you have from black to orange?? Make sure to test the voltage while the connector is a still on the timer.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 20 January 2015 - 11:52 PM.

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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 08:05 AM

I'll cinch up the orange wire connection to the timer lug and see what happens.


If you replaced the timer with a new OEM timer, then a bad connection on that neutral spade almost has to be the problem.

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#6 linkousk

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Posted 24 January 2015 - 08:57 PM

I replaced the timer with a Sankyo unit marked Part number: WR9X502

Part number: WR9X502

.  I'm going to triple check that is the correct part number for this application.  :sillytongue:

 

I am getting 120 volts to black and orange at the timer (when the fridge comes on only).



#7 Applianceman97

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Posted Yesterday, 01:09 AM

Is that the same timer that came out of the machine? Make sure the old and new timers are wired the same internally. Here's how you check.

Look at the numbers that correspond with the spades on the timer. The timer you installed is numbered 1 4 3 2.

Most timers are wired 2 1 4 3.

If the old and new timer doesn't match the then that's your issue.

Wouldn't be the first time a lookup was incorrect. Many techs here are more experienced with the mechanical defrost timer systems and how they are wired including Durham and the Samurai. I'm sure they will be able to deny or confirm this.

Edited by Applianceman97, Yesterday, 01:14 AM.

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#8 Applianceman97

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Posted Yesterday, 01:14 AM

Just going out on a limb with this one.
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#9 DurhamAppliance

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Posted Yesterday, 04:15 PM

That is the proper configuration for this model, bro A97 but that doesn't mean this timer is working properly.


Timer test: Disconnect timer..

1 Check timer motor winding for some resistance.... since there is a capacitor in series with the winding, set your meter to read microfarads. If you see some resistance, then the motor is more than likely fine.

2 test for continuity from 1 and 3 while the timer is set to standard cooling. You probably will find continuity based on the info you provided

3 manually advance the timer to the defrost cycle and you should now have continuity from 1 to 4... which I expect you have.


So If your neutral line is fine, and if you have some resistance in the windings of your timer, then it has to be the connector or possibly a timer with an operating motor but the gearing is stuck.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, Today, 11:51 AM.

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#10 linkousk

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Posted Yesterday, 09:02 PM

Thanks for the wisdom!  I will do these tests tomorrow.



#11 linkousk

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Posted Today, 06:24 PM

Found .15 microfarads at timer motor winding.  Connectivity tested OK.  Going to swap out with another new unit.






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