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GE PFS22SISBSS inconsistent temp


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14 replies to this topic

#1 arepstien

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Posted 22 January 2015 - 11:12 PM

Hello,  

 

So I have dug through the forums and found lots of good information.  Thanks for that by the way.  I have done a bunch of troubleshooting and thought I found the solution.  But it turns out I have the same problem still.  So I figured I would put my info out there and see if one of the pros can point me in the right direction.

 

So as the topic says I have a GE PFS22SISBSS refrigerator.  The temperature in the freezer and the fridge (some what, but not as noticeable as the freezer) has not been maintaining a consistent temperature.  At first we thought it was one of the kids leaving the door ajar slightly.  But the issue kept getting worse over time.  The temp would go up to 4c then come back down, then eventually up to about 10c and come back down.

 

So after doing some research, I discovered there was a known issue with the main control board.  I called up GE provided them my model and serial.  They said my unit was not part of that voluntary replacement program but offered to ship me the replacement part a a very heavy discount.  When I heard the price, after having looked it up online, I couldn't say no to their price.  So they shipped me a replacement main board PN WR55X10942.

 

I happily waited the couple of days for the part to come in the mail.  I installed it, plugged the fridge back in the fan kicked on, the compressor kicked on and everything started humming away.  I asked the wife to keep an eye on it for the day.  And everything seemed great.  Problem solved right?  Wrong later that night I opened up the freezer and it was sitting at 19c.

 

So started the reading more and troubleshooting.  Everything I read seemed to be saying it could be a bad fan motor in conjunction with the main board.  I tested the power to the fan coming off the main board, and it was showing +12VDC between J2-8 (Constant fan voltage) and J2-3 (common).  The fan seems to be running and blowing just fine, the coils are nice and clean.  I also went back and looked at the old main board, as I read there maybe some visible damage if the fan motor is bad.  And the only thing I see is the PCB is a little darker around Resistor 43 and 27 when looking at the unit from the back.  Which seemed to fall inline with what I was reading.

 

Thinking ok maybe run the control diagnostics?  I found those instructions and went into the diagnostic mode and ran test 1 1, you hear the internal fans run for 5 seconds and turn off, and you hear the back fan run for 5 seconds and turn off.

 

I then did a refrigerator reset, and I noticed when the unit started back up. The rear fan (is that the condenser or evaporator?) turns on 100%, the start capacitor clicks, but the compressor does not run.  It hums for about 10 seconds and turns off.  Then tries to turn back on hums for about 10 seconds and shuts down.

 

So unplugged it and pulled the start cap/relay (overload?) assembly and shook it around.  Nothing seemed lose or rattled.  I tested the resistance between the 3 connectors of the compressor, and it was in the ranges I was seeing on the forums here, and open between any connector and the casing.  So there is no short/ground.

 

Next I tested the cap itself.  It is rated for 208VAC 12uf, and reading at 12.35uf.  So it seems to be in range and good?

 

At this point I am scratching my head and confused.  I had also had the unit unplugged for about 20min while testing, and I plugged the unit back in and everything fired up and started working.  But from what I read when the unit is unplugged for a while it goes into bypass mode on start up and maybe that is why everything is working?

 

Is it a bad fan motor, is it a bad overload, is it a bad capacitor? Or did I get a defective replacement main board?

 

Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated!



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#2 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 06:06 AM

I must admit I am impressed with the work and research you did yet I am amazed that you did not mention the most important item when it comes to GE temp issues.... the thermistors/sensors.

Your board reacts based on information it receives from these sensors. If you did a sensor test using diagnostics, and you saw that the sensors "passed," please understand this only means the sensors are properly connected and are being read by the board. It does not test the validity of the sensors' reporting. In other words, it cannot and will not recognize that a sensor is out of calibration.

You could test the sensors but I suggest you replace the evap sensor and the freezer and fridge compartment sensors. They are inexpensive.

This is, of course, is contingent upon a properly operating compressor and sealed system.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 23 January 2015 - 06:10 AM.

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#3 arepstien

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 09:04 AM

I guess I was distracted by the last little fact that the compressor seems like it is trying to turn on and does not or is not able to.  Well, at least not the first couple of times, it eventually will.  You are right, I did run a thermistor/sensor test through the control diagnostics and got a pass. So that is why I did not mention it.  I assumed that pass meant everything was good.  I thought about sticking a thermometer in there. But I really only have a high temp one for the range. So short of sticking my multimeter in there with its thermocouple on it, I don't have a good way to measure the temperature down to low levels.

 

Is it worth buying the start cap and the sensors at the same time to avoid running to the hardware store twice (and waiting for shipping).  Or is there a way to test the sensors to verify they are the issue?

 

I should mention I did some testing on the fan, but just measuring the resistance across VDC and common does not really seem like the best test.  I guess that would tell me if there is a short early on in the winding.  It was measuring at 1kohm, as people mentioned in the forums as well.



#4 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 09:36 AM

Your compressor is starting properly. The times where it seems to try to start are times when there is significant head pressure and basically the system is designed to wait for the pressure to reduce before the compressor starts up. If you leave the fridge unplugged for a while, the compressor will start up fast. If you then unplug it and immediately plug it back in, head pressure exists and your Compressor will go through a short "start" cycle... you may hear a click every so often as the start relay tries to start the compressor before the pressure has reduced.


You can test the sensors, but why? Change them all, it's good maintenance plus they are cheap. And if they are the old style sensors with the black sealant where the wires enter the sensor, GE says replace them anyway. There are many threads explaning the proper method of testing them, if you are intent on doing so. Just search the site.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 23 January 2015 - 09:42 AM.

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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 09:54 AM

Temperature sensors Part number: AP3185407

Part number: AP3185407


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#6 arepstien

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 01:36 PM

Thanks.  I'll swap out the sensors and let you know how it goes.



#7 arepstien

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 10:38 AM

So the sensors came in.  It took them less than a day to get here even without expedited shipping which is awesome.  But, that did not resolve the issue.  I changed them out and let the fridge run over night.  late in the evening it had gotten the freezer down to 0c and the fridge to 36c.  When I checked it this morning the freezer was sitting at 9c and the fridge at 37c.  My wife also told me that she heard it trying to start up quite a few times (meaning the relay was clicking on and off) but the compressor was not starting up properly.  So it has to be something else.



#8 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 04:00 PM

Oc and 36c.....are you certain it's not 0f and 36f??

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#9 arepstien

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 05:00 PM

Oc and 36c.....are you certain it's not 0f and 36f??

 

 

You are right.  I just noticed it is in Fahrenheit by default not Celsius.  Guess 0f and 36f make more sense anyways.  The issue still remains that the unit is not able to easily maintain temp.  It seems like it takes the compressor a couple of tries to get running fully.  I have replaced the main board and the temperature sensors.



#10 arepstien

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Posted 28 January 2015 - 09:06 PM

Any last suggestions before I give up and call a repair man?



#11 DurhamAppliance

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Posted Yesterday, 01:14 PM

I need thermistor readings from the board...then obtain  actual temps in both compartments. I also need to see a picture of the evap.   If you feel your compressor is sluggish, you may consider changing the start relay.


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#12 arepstien

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Posted Yesterday, 08:39 PM

I found a table of temperatures to resistance value chart the other day for this units sensor but can't seem to find it today.

 

The display in the fridge reads:

3F/37F

Multimeter reads

10F/37F

 

The meter was reading 72F at room temp so it is calibrated correctly.

 

The resistance measurements were as follows

 

J1-1 to common: 19.93k ohm

J1-2 to common: no connection

J1-3 to common: 29.6k ohm

J1-4 to common: 39.2k ohm

 

I have to rip the freezer apart again to get at the evap.   In the mean time if you were looking to see if the sensor was physically touching the evap, the answer is yes.  They had it zip tied, instead of clipped, to the inlet or outlet line not sure which one, I didn't track it down.

 

There was also some ice on the evap when I first opened it up to swap out the sensor but not much at all.  Before I even started work there was a little water in the catch tray in the outside rear telling me it had been defrosting.



#13 arepstien

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Posted Yesterday, 09:24 PM

Pulled it all apart, and went to upload the Images to the gallery, but it seems like I don't have the upload option listed in the help or in the tutorial on uploading images.

 

http://appliantology...ntology-forums/



#14 DurhamAppliance

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Posted Today, 08:41 AM

j1 pin 1 seems way too cold, it is the fresh food thermistor and reading about 28°f? Is that a new sensor?

re pictures, use photobucket

Edited by DurhamAppliance, Today, 08:44 AM.

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#15 MicaBay

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Posted Today, 10:00 AM

I found a table of temperatures to resistance value chart the other day for this units sensor but can't seem to find it today.

 

The display in the fridge reads:

3F/37F

Multimeter reads

10F/37F

 

The meter was reading 72F at room temp so it is calibrated correctly.

 

The resistance measurements were as follows

 

J1-1 to common: 19.93k ohm

J1-2 to common: no connection

J1-3 to common: 29.6k ohm

J1-4 to common: 39.2k ohm

 

I have to rip the freezer apart again to get at the evap.   In the mean time if you were looking to see if the sensor was physically touching the evap, the answer is yes.  They had it zip tied, instead of clipped, to the inlet or outlet line not sure which one, I didn't track it down.

 

There was also some ice on the evap when I first opened it up to swap out the sensor but not much at all.  Before I even started work there was a little water in the catch tray in the outside rear telling me it had been defrosting.

Just want to encourage you to keep at it.  The advice Durham is giving is solid, sometimes seems tedious, but well worth the correct diagnostics.  Keep up the solid work.






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