So I have dug through the forums and found lots of good information. Thanks for that by the way. I have done a bunch of troubleshooting and thought I found the solution. But it turns out I have the same problem still. So I figured I would put my info out there and see if one of the pros can point me in the right direction.
So as the topic says I have a GE PFS22SISBSS refrigerator. The temperature in the freezer and the fridge (some what, but not as noticeable as the freezer) has not been maintaining a consistent temperature. At first we thought it was one of the kids leaving the door ajar slightly. But the issue kept getting worse over time. The temp would go up to 4c then come back down, then eventually up to about 10c and come back down.
So after doing some research, I discovered there was a known issue with the main control board. I called up GE provided them my model and serial. They said my unit was not part of that voluntary replacement program but offered to ship me the replacement part a a very heavy discount. When I heard the price, after having looked it up online, I couldn't say no to their price. So they shipped me a replacement main board PN WR55X10942.
I happily waited the couple of days for the part to come in the mail. I installed it, plugged the fridge back in the fan kicked on, the compressor kicked on and everything started humming away. I asked the wife to keep an eye on it for the day. And everything seemed great. Problem solved right? Wrong later that night I opened up the freezer and it was sitting at 19c.
So started the reading more and troubleshooting. Everything I read seemed to be saying it could be a bad fan motor in conjunction with the main board. I tested the power to the fan coming off the main board, and it was showing +12VDC between J2-8 (Constant fan voltage) and J2-3 (common). The fan seems to be running and blowing just fine, the coils are nice and clean. I also went back and looked at the old main board, as I read there maybe some visible damage if the fan motor is bad. And the only thing I see is the PCB is a little darker around Resistor 43 and 27 when looking at the unit from the back. Which seemed to fall inline with what I was reading.
Thinking ok maybe run the control diagnostics? I found those instructions and went into the diagnostic mode and ran test 1 1, you hear the internal fans run for 5 seconds and turn off, and you hear the back fan run for 5 seconds and turn off.
I then did a refrigerator reset, and I noticed when the unit started back up. The rear fan (is that the condenser or evaporator?) turns on 100%, the start capacitor clicks, but the compressor does not run. It hums for about 10 seconds and turns off. Then tries to turn back on hums for about 10 seconds and shuts down.
So unplugged it and pulled the start cap/relay (overload?) assembly and shook it around. Nothing seemed lose or rattled. I tested the resistance between the 3 connectors of the compressor, and it was in the ranges I was seeing on the forums here, and open between any connector and the casing. So there is no short/ground.
Next I tested the cap itself. It is rated for 208VAC 12uf, and reading at 12.35uf. So it seems to be in range and good?
At this point I am scratching my head and confused. I had also had the unit unplugged for about 20min while testing, and I plugged the unit back in and everything fired up and started working. But from what I read when the unit is unplugged for a while it goes into bypass mode on start up and maybe that is why everything is working?
Is it a bad fan motor, is it a bad overload, is it a bad capacitor? Or did I get a defective replacement main board?
Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated!