Manual and Installation Instructions J D14A1GR, GE Wall Oven

[CJrun]

My Better Half found some used kitchen appliances, they are gorgeous, and will be perfect for our kitchen remodel.  Based on a date I found on the sink, I think they are from 1964.  The Model Number on the Wall Oven appears to read J D14A1GR.  Given the space after the J, maybe it's just D14A1GR.  The G could possibly be a 6, but I don't think so.

 

As I am finishing the layout of our new (old, 1950s) cabinetry, I want to learn all I can about how the wall oven should be installed.  I can figure some things out, but would appreciate any literature or advice as guidance.  I searched the "downloads", FAQs, etc., and found nothing with any of the combinations I have listed for the model number.  I didn't try a wild card, as I am not even sure if the MN is JD1xxxxx, or D14xxxx.

 

Hopefully, in the mid 1960s, GE appliances were better made than newer ones are.  Thanks in advance.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

The model number is: J D14A1GR

 

All lookups are done using only this part of the model number: JD14A1

 

The SPACE is removed and the end letters, (the color code are dropped).

 

You're not going to find much if anything in the line of manuals for that old of a unit, the only parts that are still readily available are the elements, selector switch, selector knob and oven door gasket.

 

Sometimes you can find old stock on Ebay for the oven t-stat

 

RepairClinic shows these parts if you look up model JD14A1

http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a13b3d649138/Model-JD14A1-GE-Range-Stove-Oven-Parts

Edited February 6, 2015 by Budget Appliance Repair

[CJrun]

Arigato, Sensei.  Never messed with a wall oven before and need to bone up on them, plus figure out the installation.  It is not obvious from looking, how these are attached to the cabinetry.  I will keep looking. 

[Spannerwrench]

An oven that old might not have been fastened to the cabinet.  As long  as the hole is properly, that oven has so much weight that it will never go anywhere.  Although you might find mounting holes on the side trim if you open the door and the only other part of the installation is making sure the cabinetry is level and the electrical hookup which is the same for all ovens.

[CJrun]

That seems to be the case.  I found four screw holes in the outer trim that I wouldn't consider sufficient to carry the load, so I figure I have to build "runners" to slide the oven in on top of, then put in some solid lumber on the sides to screw the outer trim to.  So I've learned that these ovens must make direct contact with solid wood, on the runners and for screwing the trim to.  I suppose I could use steel, but assume this was all done with lumber, in the 1960s.

 

Thanks, folks!

[Spannerwrench]

There is no load, just the weight of the door when it opens, and the racks when open with food on them.  Most likely the weight of the oven itself would counter balance that, the screws are just extra benefit and would be fine if screwed into any decent cabinetry. 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

The four screws around the trim is all that is required - they are basically safety and for in-case of earthquake the oven doesn't walk out of the wall.

 

You wouldn't believe how many wall ovens are found, (even large double wall ovens), that noone every installed the mounting screws and the oven is just slide into the hole in the wall.

[CJrun]

Hmmm.  Good to hear, I guess.  My measurements indicate that the screw holes leave me no more than an 1/8th of an inch of wood past the screw, before I start having clearance issues sliding the oven in.  That's not much meat for anything beyond a safety function for those screws.

 

Thanks again.

[Spannerwrench]

It'll be fine as long as the oven is on a solid base and has a solid cabinet or ceiling above it.

[CJrun]

It WILL, now!  I was expecting to install it into a set of steel cabinets, from 1950, thinking it would mount to the sheet metal at the back and sides.  Now I understand I have to build wood framing for it to rest on and against, as there is no real attachment to the steel cabinet.

 

Thanks again.

[Spannerwrench]

If you're using steel cabinets, you can bolt it to the steel.  Just use the right length screws so you don't go through the side and make it visible.  If you're saying the cabinets you're using are only 1/8" thick, then yes you should have all of the cabinets reinforced.  I'm no cabinet guy but to me it sounds like common sense.

[CJrun]

Can't properly respond, as replies seem to be impossible to attach photos to.  Short answer, I will fabricate the cabinet for the oven from scratch, from wood.  I will probably have sheet metal fabricated and painted to clad my work, to match the 1950 Geneva cabinets I just spent days driving, packing, cleaning, and unloading back here at home.  Trying to attach photos or urls to a reply just kills any reply I try to make and wastes my effort.

 

I learned something.  Wall ovens make direct contact with cabinets, while I thought they needed space all around for heat dispersion.  I have it from here, except that I may put up a post later on, when I get this finished.

 

Thanks, folks.