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Whirlpool GGW9200LT1 dryer taking long to dry

gas dryer long dry time

40 replies to this topic

#1 jandrh232

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 03:47 PM

We have the Whirlpool GGW9200LT1 natural gas dryer.  It has been taking 90+ minutes to dry a load of clothes.  It's about 10 years old, we were told, and we recently acquired it from a friend.  We have been down the line with troubleshooting and don't know what to try next.

 

The dryer has been disassembled and cleaned several times.  There is no lint build up inside the dryer anywhere that we can find.  It's in a tight space and the air vents from the dryer into a 90, left about 3 feet in flexible aluminum venting, then another 90 through the wall and outside.  This is all new venting and is unobstructed.  We removed all venting and dried a load just venting into the room (condensation all over the house from this!) and noticed no difference in drying time.  Air venting out is a strong, warm flow.  The blower does not feel loose.  We don't hear any odd noises or rattles.  The gas valve solenoid coils have been replaced with no difference to the drying time.  When the dryer is started, the ignition glows orange, the flame starts and runs within about 30 seconds.  the dryer feels pretty warm, but we are new to natural gas and I'm not sure hot hot it should feel.  I just know that it is taking a very long time to dry.  The clothes are coming from a front loader washer and are more damp than wet.  

 

Does anyone have any suggestions of what I can test next before we have to call a tech to come out?  Ideally, I would like to avoid that to save on cost.  Any ideas and how-to would be much appreciated!



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#2 weswayne

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 04:05 PM

Did the previous owner use natural gas also?

 

Can you get air temperature measurements at the exterior vent? How hot does the air get and how long does it stay that way before it cools down?

 

Does the long dry time occur in automatic cycle or manual cycle? The control senses how dry the clothes are getting so the moisture sensor bars could be going bad. Did you by chance check the surface of the metal bars for fabric sheet residue? Sounds like you tried cleaning all that you could. Just taking shots at what might going on. 


Edited by weswayne, 19 March 2015 - 04:19 PM.


#3 jandrh232

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 04:22 PM

I should have mentioned that.  It was converted to LP previously.  I put the proper orifice (42) and the limiter in place of the LP orifice and vent cap to convert back to natural gas.  

 

By exterior vent do you mean exterior of the house vent or at the back of the dryer?



#4 weswayne

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 04:32 PM

Exterior of the house. More convenient that way. If the air temperature is getting hot enough you may be dealing with a sensing issue is where I am going with the questions. The temp should get up to around 155 degrees and cut out then start getting hot again around 140 while the temperature selected is for High Heat.


Edited by weswayne, 19 March 2015 - 04:43 PM.


#5 jandrh232

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 05:21 PM

Just checked my temp.  It cycles from 155 to 125, then back up again.  This was done on a High Timed Dry cycle, as have any other loads we have done.  

 

The sensing dry cycles give an initial dry time of 40 to 50 minutes, but take about an hour and a half to be dry, when we tried that way.  It just keeps increasing the time as it senses the clothes are not fully dry.  I think that eliminates a moisture sensor issue, especially since we normally use the Timed Dry setting and don't rely on that.



#6 weswayne

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 05:40 PM

Do you have the tech sheet for the unit to go into diagnostics? The 125 degrees seems to low and might be a thermistor issue. Are you able to measure Ohms for the thermistor at room temperature? It may be allowing the cool down a little too long then heating up causing the longer drying time.

 

Part number: AP3919451

Part number: AP3919451


Edited by weswayne, 19 March 2015 - 05:47 PM.


#7 jandrh232

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 07:02 PM

I tested the thermister and thermal fuse for continuity.  I don't understand this well, so let me know if I need to re-test something differently.  

 

Thermister: 12.25 at 20k ohms

Thermal fuse: .05 - .10 at 20k ohms  (this kept jumping around)

 

Is this good or bad?



#8 jandrh232

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 07:24 PM

resistance, not continuity.  I tested the thermal fuse again to see if I could get a more stable result and got it to stay right around .02 - .04 at 20k ohms.  I don't know whether that makes any difference or not.  I don't know what they should be in order to figure out if one needs to be replaced.



#9 weswayne

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 07:38 PM

The thermal fuse is good because power is being supplied so if that went out your fire would not come on. The resistance on the thermistor should read 11.9k Ohms at 70 degrees (ambient) room temperature, 9.2k Ohms at 80 degrees according to the service manual temperature chart for the Thermistor resistance. The chart just uses a baseline for resistance readings on the thermistor. It is an inexpensive part to replace in order to be totally sure. If not the thermistor then you may be looking at a control board issue. If it were my machine I would start at thermistor because that low 125 degree is out of range according to the service manual. 10year old dryer may need a new thermistor. Do you still have the tech sheet for the machine?



#10 jandrh232

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 07:42 PM

I have the manual, but there is no tech sheet that I can find.



#11 weswayne

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 07:46 PM

Tech sheet should be inside the cabinet unless someone did not put it back. If you remove the lid and look around it is usually placed inside.



#12 jandrh232

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 07:56 PM

I will look there.  I'm assuming that is where it will give me normal operating expectation in measurements for different components.  Is that right?  

 

I'll replace the thermistor tomorrow when I can get the part and see what that does.

 

Thank you SO much!! I will let you know if it works.



#13 weswayne

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 08:01 PM

Tech sheet will show you how to run a diagnostics to see if there are any error codes and get you in the ballpark of the part or parts that may need attention. I hope it works out for you if not we can try something else.



#14 jandrh232

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 06:43 PM

Got the new thermistor.  The resistance of the new one is identical to the old when measured side by side- around 12.4, give or taake.  The temp of the exhaust is reading 120 - 135 now on high Timed Dry with an empty dryer and is doing that consistently over about 10 minutes of watching it.  I think the thermistor was fine.   What would make the exhaust temp so much cooler today compared to yesterday?  Could it be some sort of thermostat related problem or am I more likely looking at the control board?   I found the tech sheet, by the way and went through any  relevant info in there.



#15 sh2sh2

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 08:06 PM

Any chance you can take a video of the flame and post it on you tube

#16 weswayne

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 08:19 PM

Go through the diagnostics and see if the machine will give you any error codes.



#17 jandrh232

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 08:24 PM

No error codes. I went thru all of the diagnostics as shown in the tech sheet. I have never posted a video, but I will figure out how to tonight and post it.

#18 jandrh232

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 01:37 AM

 video of the dryer starting and the flame.  video isn't great quality, but hopefully you can see what you need.

 

 

Is there any way to test the control board or is it diagnosed symptomatically?


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 21 March 2015 - 06:00 AM.


#19 sh2sh2

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 05:43 AM

Does the flame cycle on and off?

#20 weswayne

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Posted 21 March 2015 - 08:09 AM

Does the flame cycle on and off?

The thermistor was cycling off at 155 then back on at 125. Service manual calls for the heat to kick on at 140 +/-. As the temp dropped to 125 it seemed to me the thermistor was allowing it to get too cool before firing up again. Now with new thermistor installed and now not even getting back up to 155, seems like the control board is bad. I am only assuming as that is what is next in line for troubleshooting. Maybe the video gives you more of a clue than me. I am stumped.






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