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Defrost Thermostat on Whirlpool EB9FVHXWQ01


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14 replies to this topic

#1 schubie

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Posted Yesterday, 09:39 PM

Hello!

 

I recently made the mistake of replacing a defrost thermostat on my Whirlpool fridge with one that wasn't an exact match. My old one read "L42-30F" whereas the new one "opens at 44 degrees closes at 18 degrees." Both are Whirlpool thermostats. 

 

At this point, the new thermostat seems to be working better (or working, period). But the fridge itself seems to be running alot more. In fact, it's rarely ever off--not just the hum of the electricity, but something blasting away inside).

 

Is it possible that the thermostat mismatch is causing the fridge to run a lot more often?

 

 

 

 



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#2 weswayne

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Posted Yesterday, 11:22 PM

Check your condenser coils for lint build up. That will cause the fridge to run long.

 

Could you be more specific about the "noise" or blasting on the inside? Is the evaporator fan making the noise?

 

Unless I am missing something I don't see a defrost thermostat on the parts diagram. What was the old part number and why did you change it?



#3 schubie

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Posted Yesterday, 11:40 PM

Thanks for the response...

 

I vacuum whatever is accessible pretty regularly, so I don't think it's build-up on the coils...

 

The noise seems to me to sound like rushing air. I haven't taken the back plate off the fridge to actually see if it's the evaporator fan, so perhaps I should. If that is it, do you think it's because of the defrost thermostat?

 

I found out afterwards that the thermostat was part of a greater harness. I cut the old one and spliced in the new one. I did this because the freezer was icing up and eventually blocking cold air getting to the fridge. Since I replaced it, this does not seem to be happening again. At least not yet. But I don't want a fridge that is constantly running and sucking electricity unnecessarily.



#4 weswayne

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Posted Yesterday, 11:55 PM

Ok, I see it on the harness. The thermostat may actually be closing too soon and causing an ice buildup in the evaporator area. It is just an assumption but you may need to get a visual to see what is going on in that area. 



#5 schubie

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Posted Today, 12:03 AM

I just took a closer look, and it is in fact the evaporator fan that seems to be always on. There is not ice, not even frost, in the area that was freezing up before. 



#6 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted Today, 05:01 AM

The defrost t-stat that you used for a replacement should be OK, (2 degrees difference in opening temp isn't going to make any difference).  The original 42-30F t-tstat close at 12 degrees, (just in case you may have thought the 30 was the closing temp, it's not - that is the differential temp).  You replacement t-stat should be marked L44-26 if it really closes at 18 degrees as you note.

 

That small amount of difference wouldn't be causing it to run too much.  You need to look at the frost pattern on the evaporator to make sure you have an even white frost coating from top to bottom and back to front of the complete evaporator - if the trailing section of the evaporator isn't frosting you could have the starting of a sealed system problem that would make it run lots longer and more often need it should.


William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#7 AARDL

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Posted Today, 08:17 AM

IMO your should have a new refrigerator thermometer in the fresh food and freezer, and in any spare frig you might have. Check the temp at least 2 times a day morning and night.

What have the temps been averaging in both compartments?



#8 schubie

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Posted Today, 11:31 AM

The defrost t-stat that you used for a replacement should be OK, (2 degrees difference in opening temp isn't going to make any difference).  The original 42-30F t-tstat close at 12 degrees, (just in case you may have thought the 30 was the closing temp, it's not - that is the differential temp).  You replacement t-stat should be marked L44-26 if it really closes at 18 degrees as you note.

 

That small amount of difference wouldn't be causing it to run too much.  You need to look at the frost pattern on the evaporator to make sure you have an even white frost coating from top to bottom and back to front of the complete evaporator - if the trailing section of the evaporator isn't frosting you could have the starting of a sealed system problem that would make it run lots longer and more often need it should.

 

 

Yes, I did think the second number was a shutoff temperature, so thanks for that clarification. According to the Amazon.com information for that part (#Part number: 4387503

Part number: 4387503

), those are the correct operating numbers.

 

I will have to take the inner freezer panel off again to take a closer look at the pattern. By "trailing" do you mean the part of the evaporator closest to the draining hole?

 

If it's something unrelated to my recent switch of thermostats, I must say that it is a big coincidence.

 

Thanks for your input! I'll have a look.


IMO your should have a new refrigerator thermometer in the fresh food and freezer, and in any spare frig you might have. Check the temp at least 2 times a day morning and night.

What have the temps been averaging in both compartments?

 

I don't have the thermometers handy yet, but I will add this to the list of diagnostics. Thanks...



#9 ServiceIcons

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Posted Today, 11:33 AM

Possible sealed system issue. 



#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted Today, 03:13 PM

According to the Amazon.com information for that part ... 

 

Oh wait! I feel a haiku coming on...

 

 

Seek help from experts

 

at Appliantology.

 

Then buy part elsewhere



#11 schubie

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Posted Today, 04:47 PM

Oh wait! I feel a haiku coming on...

 

 

 

You baffle me, sir.



#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted Today, 05:18 PM

I claim artistic license.

 

AFRO_SAMURAI_by_CrooklynScriptures.jpg



#13 DurhamAppliance

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Posted Today, 09:18 PM

This is a jazz board control fridge..... With these models, If I said the jazz board is your problem without ever having diagnosed your machine, I'd be correct at least 85 percent of the time.

Make sure the defrost drainage tube isn't clogged thus sealing the air vents on the bottom of the evap cover.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, Today, 09:22 PM.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#14 schubie

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Posted Today, 10:27 PM

Make sure the defrost drainage tube isn't clogged thus sealing the air vents on the bottom of the evap cover.

 

This was actually the first problem with this fridge, which I managed to fix a while ago. With the continuing problems with this fridge, which is barely two years old, and my Whirlpool stove circuit board bursting into flames, it's safe to say I will not be purchasing this brand again.



#15 DurhamAppliance

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Posted Today, 10:45 PM

If no sealed failure, call me Karnak and buy a new jazz board

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com





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