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Nd code Samsung WF330ANW/XAA - won't drain, motor hums

Samsung Washer nd code wont drain

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15 replies to this topic

#1 belsonrepair

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Posted Yesterday, 08:50 PM

Okay everyone, I will try to be as brief as I can while explaining all of the steps I have already taken. I received a call about a Samsung front load washer which would not drain and was receiving an nd code as well. Went there and did a quick test on all of the functions and everything worked perfectly fine except for the drain pump test. When I tested the pump all it did was hum. So I tore the washer apart and accessed the pump in order to clean it out. Was able to remove some lint and hair, but nothing too major. Tested the pump outside of the machine isolated by itself and it spun great and worked as expected. Hooked everything back up and installed all components of the washer and tested it again. Drain pump still worked and actually pumped out one load of water. Problem solved, right? Left customers house and got a call later about it popping up an nd code again and not draining.

 

Went back the next day and ran the quick test again. Pump was only humming, but if you reached in the filter housing with a long screwdriver you could flick one of the impellers and the pump would start running. So then I thought that the windings were bad on the pump so I purchased a new pump. Get it all hooked up and it basically does the same exact thing. It worked isolated from the machine and pumped water out on the very first try. But now all it is doing is humming and will start to run if it is manually started with a screwdriver.

 

****Also, if you manually start the pumps with a screwdriver, both of them will continue to run until water is added into the machine. As soon as you add any amount of water into the washing machine, the pumps act like they are "seized" up and will start to hum. 

 

My question is am I missing something else to check? Something with the control board? Would there be something that is frying these motors? Would water level have anything to do with it? I'm stumped......any help would be greatly appreciated, have already put way too much time into this thing.



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#2 weswayne

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Posted Yesterday, 09:50 PM

Test the voltage from the board to the pump to make sure the board is actually sending out 120VAC. 


Edited by weswayne, Yesterday, 09:51 PM.


#3 belsonrepair

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Posted Today, 04:29 AM

I forgot to mention that I did check that as well, it was sending 120.9VAC.....

 

If the motor is just humming when it has motor in it does that mean the pump is shot? It almost acts like it doesn't have enough power to pump when it has water in it. The only thing I don't understand is why did it pump water out the very first time then. That's why I was wondering if there was anything else working against the pump or if by chance there was something that is frying these motors.



#4 MicaBay

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Posted Today, 08:26 AM

1. Chances are the pump has failed.  2.  These pumps aren't that strong to begin with.  3.  Using a shop vac on the end of the drain hose, does water freely drain out?  If not, you need to take the rest of the drain hoses apart and look for blockage.  Most likely at the 90* elbow that the sump hose is attached to (the one touching the tub)



#5 belsonrepair

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Posted Today, 09:26 AM

It's just frustrating because I installed a brand new pump on it. You think the second pump failed as well? Is there something that would have caused this with a brand new one? Is there any way a surge of power got to it and fried it?

 

And yes, water flows out freely but it gets held up at the pump. If you open the drain valve and filter cover on the bottom front of the washer all of the water will empty out of it. I tore apart all hoses and elbows and cleaned out any and everything inside of them. It just acts as though its not strong enough to pump out the water and it seizes up.

 

Is there anyway the new pump was bad from the factory and I need to purchase another one?

 

Id just hate to go buy another new pump and have the same problem occur.



#6 certified tech group 51

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Posted Today, 09:53 AM

How high is the stand pipe for the drain, could be too high and gookus has built up in the nose to reduce water flow...............Fill with water,  disconnect the drain hose at the stand pipe, ( have a pail ready)   put unit into a drain cycle, lower the drain hose..starts to pump out????



#7 belsonrepair

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Posted Today, 11:22 AM

I can definately try this out because the pipe does go up pretty high. But the consumer has had this setup for 3 years with no problems. Is it possible that out of nowhere it just starts to stop working?

Also, would it make sense that when I hooked the new pump up it worked great the first time but not after that? Could some sludge have got in the pump?

#8 weswayne

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Posted Today, 11:41 AM

What were the resistance ohms on the old motor and new motor after you said they failed?



#9 belsonrepair

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Posted Today, 07:51 PM

The resistance ohms on both of them were about 13.4-13.6.

I ran the drain hose into a tub and ran a water test and drain test several times. Every time we did this it would drain the machine out. So i left and the customer attempted a quick wash cycle and when the cycle hit 19 minutes left it wouldn't drain and all the motor did was hum. And this cycle was just run into a tote on the floor where it was draining all the water during a quick test.

This thing really has me lost at this point

#10 weswayne

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Posted Today, 08:49 PM

Doesnt sound like the motors are getting burned up, the resistance looks good. Tech sheet calls for 13.9 ohms. I am wondering what the voltage measurement would be during the "humming" of the drain pump. I see you have taken the voltage measurement but did you check the voltage during the actual drain pump failure. Perhaps the board is failing to send proper voltage under certain loads. See if you can get another voltage reading from the control board during the failure if you have not done that already. Check for broken wire or bad connection in the plugs.



#11 belsonrepair

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Posted Today, 09:07 PM

How would you go about checking the voltage during the failure?

#12 weswayne

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Posted Today, 09:52 PM

From the control board Connector CN2 Pin 3(Brown) and CN3 Pin 3(Violet). Should get 120vac with pump "humming". Looking at the wiring diagram the voltage also passes through the door lock switch from control board to the pump.


Edited by weswayne, Today, 09:55 PM.


#13 belsonrepair

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Posted Today, 09:54 PM

If I dont get 120vac?

#14 weswayne

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Posted Today, 09:55 PM

control board is bad per manual troubleshooting

Edited by weswayne, Today, 09:57 PM.


#15 belsonrepair

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Posted Today, 09:57 PM

You know a part number on that board?

#16 weswayne

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Posted Today, 10:14 PM

Part number: AP4568200

Part number: AP4568200

 DC92-00381E You will need to verify part number with your model and washer version. It is coming up as unavailable on the appliancepartspros.com site.


Edited by weswayne, Today, 10:15 PM.






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