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Samsung WF218ANW/XAA drain problem


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7 replies to this topic

#1 bryankk

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 02:37 PM

I have the above mentioned machine and it will get to the spin cycle and give the nd code. It seems to drain fine in the early cycles but not in the spin. After the first time, I cleaned out the debris filter and got a small amount of gunk but no solids. Started the amchine again and it got to the spin cycle and nd again. Drained the tub via the drain tube. Put the machine in Quick Test Mode, verified water valve, motor and door lock worked. No response from the drain pump. Anything else I should check or does this confirm the pump?

 

1. Anything else I should check or does this confirm the pump?

2. Can I replace just the pump without replacing the whole assembly?

3. Do I have to completely take the front of the machine off to replace it?

 

Thanks for any help, it is greatly appreciated.



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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 04:16 PM

Assuming there's free flow from the tub to the pump intake? Can verify by pouring a cup of water in the empty drum with the gookus-catcher out and see if the water flows right out. If that's the case...

 

Then either the pump is failing (common on Samsung washers) or there's something blocking the discharge hose/90 degree elbow. Either way, the sure fix is to replace the pump assembly. Part number: AP4564724

Part number: AP4564724



#3 bryankk

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Posted Yesterday, 07:58 PM

Replaced the pump. Ensured ALL of the tubing is clear, no clogs or debris (even the big one coming off the tub). Ran Quick test mode, pump made the appropriate sounds. Ran a load of laundry, got the nd message again. Ran quick test mode again and got intermittent response from the drain pump (pump would run, release the button, press again and pump would not run, etc.) PCB failure?



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted Today, 02:31 AM

Did you replace the pump assembly or just the pump motor?



#5 bryankk

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Posted Today, 04:05 AM

Just the motor. Only moving part on the assembly, other than the pump, is the flapper valve. All tubes leading to the assembly are clear. Would this really make a difference?



#6 johntech

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Posted Today, 09:16 AM

Check for loose wire connections and put a meter on the pump when it is running a normal cycle and is acting up. You may have a board problem. You should get a steady 120v when the pump is supposed to be on.

#7 bryankk

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Posted Today, 10:19 AM

Can I put the machine in quick test mode and press the button to activate the pump to check current?

#8 MicaBay

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Posted Today, 10:34 PM

By far the most common thing to find In this design is objects stuck in the 90* turn just before the pump inlet. Is the pump making any noise? I'm assuming yes because you want to check for current rather than voltage.




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