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Sterling 5 Burner Gas cooktop - Igniter Module Needed - Model GCT360/5D


OldAsDirt

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Hello! Once again I am searching for a replacement igniter module for my intermittent module. (It has worked only for a few periods since my last search... in 2005!)

 

(Previous post: http://applianceguru.com/forum1/3135.html)

 

Only few were sold in the US it seems, so little parts info is available, but all I really need is a 5 burner ignition module. (I.e. a module with 5 outputs - they all fire at the same time.) Can you recommend a 'not ridiculously proced' module? (110V 60 Hz input, 5 connectors for the burner switches and 5 spark outputs)

 

Let me know if more info or photos are needed. Thanks for your help!

 

Regards,

 

OldAsDirt in NH

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  • 2 months later...

Hello again! It seems my ignition module is again intermittent, mostly NOT working. (It seems to work for a short while after I ask this site for help, though!)   ;-)

 

What is the best way to select a 5 buner ignition module? (Power is 120 Volts 60 Hz.)

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  • 4 months later...

Hello, I was able to repair my existing module with a heat gun to reflow the solder. (Apparently a cold solder joint, the Whirlpool ignition module suggested is NLA, and Stirling UK was absolutely uesless for parts help.)

 

My igniter now fires and lights all burners, BUT i have an issue with 3 of the 5 burners: Continuous sparking. When any of the other 3 burners light, the igniter keeps firing.

 

What is the 'sensing' mechanism so it 'knows' that the burner has ignited? (I have swapped the 'caps' - the burner tops - from working burners, no change.)

 

Any help or clues appreciated. (I believe that I wired the module back in properly - photo from before looks like the colors are right...)

 

Thanks,

 

OldAsDirt in NH, USA

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  • Team Samurai
On December 28, 2015 at 10:09 AM, OldAsDirt said:

Hello, I was able to repair my existing module with a heat gun to reflow the solder. (Apparently a cold solder joint, the Whirlpool ignition module suggested is NLA, and Stirling UK was absolutely uesless for parts help.)

 

Many times, when a solder joint fails, it's usually not a cold joint, as in bad during manufacture. Rather, it's a stressed joint that's carrying load current for longer than it is rated to. In these cases, there is usually a root cause for this failure, such as a loose electrical connection. 

 

 

Quote

My igniter now fires and lights all burners, BUT i have an issue with 3 of the 5 burners: Continuous sparking. When any of the other 3 burners light, the igniter keeps firing.

 
What is the 'sensing' mechanism so it 'knows' that the burner has ignited? (I have swapped the 'caps' - the burner tops - from working burners, no change.)
 
 

 

 
 
1. Check the outlet the cooktop is plugged into reverse polarity (Neutral and Line switched). Common problem in my area of NH and will screw up gas surface burner ignition systems. 
 
2. The bottoms of the burner caps and the contacting burner base surfaces must be clean-- bright metal. Carbon buildup will form a high resistance barrier to the sparks return path to the spark module and interrupt it. 
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OK, Thank you I will check outlet polarity and will clean / wire brush burner tops.

 

Good thought about the cold solder joint vs high heat and stress. Connectors all looked clean and pretty, but it was British designed, so there's that... ;-)   1992 manufacture, I'm thinking of automobile electrical systems designed by Lucas back in the day on British cars that earned them the moniker 'Prince of Darkness'...    ;-)

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Polarity checks OK. (With a 3 pronged tester that shows two lights when OK...)

 

I've cleaned the top of one 'multi-firing' burner with a wire brush, no change - it looks cleaner than one of the burners that works ok. Is there an easy way to post a photo? Maybe a 'second pair of eyes' can spot something that I'm missing...

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  • Team Samurai

Is there an easy way to post a photo? 

 

 

Upload your photos to a free image hosting site and then post the links here.

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I spent Hours troubleshooting today... All I have determined is that only two  burners at any one time, will work properly (I.e. light and not keep sparking.) Not the same ones, and it does not follow the output. (I.e. wiring a working output to another burner.) I tried matching 'switch 1' to 'output 1', no improvement...

Will have another look in the am, but thinking I'm ready to give up and buy an new ignition module.

(A temporary 'work-around' is to light a burner, then remove the plastic piece that pushes the lever for the switch on that burner, but obviously if it goes out, it won't relight...)

Any other ideas? (I removed one igniter to clean around it, but everything is pretty clean...)

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