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Kenmore washer


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6 replies to this topic

#1 gizmo1

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Posted 13 May 2005 - 01:48 PM

Good Evening all...Sorry, wrong forum

I have a Kenmore washer Model #92581210. The machine runs for about 10 seconds and then shuts down for about two minutes. Went through all motor and starter checks that the manual calls for. All tests fall into specs. This is a two speed motor with a direct drive transmssion.

I even changed the motor with a known good one and it still is overloading he thermal switch. Does anyone have a suggestion on what to check next?


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 13 May 2005 - 05:57 PM

These Whirlpool DD washers have known problems with the wiring harness.  Usually down at or close to the motor.  Check the motor plug real close and  take your volt stick and see which wire is losing voltage to the motor when it cuts out.  Pegi

 

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#3 nickfixit

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Posted 14 May 2005 - 01:45 AM

I have found several that had a break in the red wires connected to the capacitor. Also, I find a couple a year the have weak motor capacitors. They should be around 190-210 microfarads, I find them reading about 40 mf. It will fool anyone that tests them by resistence.

You could have bad timer contacts sending low voltage to motor. Or, if your modle has a separate speed control switch it may be sending power to multiple windings at the same time.

Nick.

" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#4 gizmo1

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Posted 14 May 2005 - 04:20 AM

 

Big Thanks to Pegi and nickfixit, my quest to not call a pro can continue. The machine does have a separate speed switch which has already been replaced once (reason for having an extra motor). I did check the switch but just for dead spots. I think I'll start and see if it actually switchs. An ohm meter is the only way I have to check the capacitor.

Have been watching e-bay for an oscilloscope, but can't seem to part with $200. Will write later with what I find.

Thanks again.


#5 gizmo1

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Posted 14 May 2005 - 04:22 AM

 [user=719]gizmo1[/user] wrote: Man made it...Man can fix it.

 

Big Thanks to Pegi and nickfixit, my quest to not call a pro can continue. The machine does have a separate speed switch which has already been replaced once (reason for having an extra motor). I did check the switch but just for dead spots. I think I'll start and see if it actually switchs. An ohm meter is the only way I have to check the capacitor.

Have been watching e-bay for an oscilloscope, but can't seem to part with $200. Will write later with what I find.

Thanks again.



#6 nickfixit

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Posted 14 May 2005 - 05:25 AM

Spend some money on a good multimeter that reads capacitance(look for ranges up to 1000 mf).  You seam to have the knowledge to make proper use of a good meter.  I'll bet it will pay for itself many times over by allowing you to make accurate diagnosis of problems in the home and garage.

I like the Fluke meters, but there are other fine testers out there. It's nice to have one with a thermocouple to test temperatures.

If you can not find any problems with your machine...

1. try a new motor cap, they are cheap

2. try a new speed selector switch , not too expensive

3. Replace the wire harness and timer

Your problem is one of the hardest to nail down. You get a wire or contact that is good enough to read proper resistance, but will not pass proper current. It's very tough to find, and you might go mental in the process.

Nick

Been Mental Quite Often

" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#7 gizmo1

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Posted 16 May 2005 - 04:24 PM

The switch was the problem. The Sears manual does not show a wiring diagram for a washer with a cycle switch, without a wiring diagram I couldn’t tell. Orange is high and blue is low, it didn’t seem right to have both of them connected together. The old switch terminals 2,3,4,5 are closed on "LL" and the "HL" 1,2,4,5 are closed.The new switch is “LL” = 2,3, and 5 are closed. “HL" = 1,4 and 2,5 are closed but, separated. I’m going to make a wiring diagram to attach to my manual.

 

Thanks for all your help.

 

Gizmo1

 

 

 





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