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Pegmumm

Maytag Washer shuts off before it drains

12 posts in this topic

Ahh my hubbie is cut and bloodied by this one. Literally.

Washes but drains partially, then shuts off.

We have tried spin cycle, it starts to rotate if partly full and then shuts off. If no water in tub, it spins and spins and spins. We have checked all the hoses, no panties. New pump, but no change. It does attempt to pump water out, we can hear it go down the drain, but it quits and shuts off if there is anything in the tub.

heeeelllpppp

peg

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

The motor is overheating and its internal thermal overload is kicking it out. You can confirm this my checking to see if voltage is still present at the motor when it kicks out during the spin, as you described. They're easy to change, about 2 mugs on the SUDS-o-meter, and certainly cheaper than buying a new washer. Post your model number and I can link you to the correct motor.

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Oh thank you.

I asked hubbie about the motor and he said that overload would also explain the smell.

And yes, I would appreciate being hooked up to the correct motor

Its a maytag washer, model a608. Its an old monster but has worked great through two generations of our family.

thanks, peg

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[user=79]Pegmumm[/user] wrote:

And yes, I would appreciate being hooked up to the correct motor

Its a maytag washer, model a608.

Here you be!

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Okay, its a month later. We replaced the motor and it does the very same thing. Any ideas?

peg

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[user=1]Samurai Appliance Repair Man[/user] wrote:

The motor is overheating and its internal thermal overload is kicking it out. You can confirm this my checking to see if voltage is still present at the motor when it kicks out during the spin, as you described.

Did you do this confirmatory test that I recommended in a previous post?

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I'm George, the bloody husband.

No, she didn't tell me about any test.

I have a VOM, Do I need to check across any piticular connections or will the "wet finger" test work?

George

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Post the wiring diagram (located inside your control panel) and I can tell you ezzacly where to stick it... your VOM probe or wet finger, your choice.

If you don't have a scanner, you can fax the diagram to me at 775-416-4449.

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I've got a little tiny screen on this Mac iBook and I can't make out anything on that diagram. Twice as big as that one awwta do it.

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Ok. Test for 120v at the black wire on the motor, which is electrically the same point as pin 35 on the timer and so can conveniently be tested there.

If you see 120v and the motor's not running, that motor is overheating, you may have it wired wrong.

No 120v and you still have water to drain == restricted drain, or slipping pump belt.

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