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farmerj

Kudo's to Samuri.

2 posts in this topic

First off I am not an appliance repair guy.  I just fix thing when they break. :grr: One way or another.  If the BFH don't fix it, I got a MFBH.  If that don't fix it.  The shotguns do.... :rocketman:

The Errant machine is a Frigidaire Gallery Front loading washer.  Model # FWTR549GGS0

Initial problem was the clothes kept coming out dripping wet.

Problem started with a heavy Blanket.  Figured it had something to do with a clutch or motor.  It just wasn't wringing the water out like it used to.  Wife suggested that the last time this happened, they found a piece of wood splinter in the water pump.  So we pull the bellow off the waterpump.....

$3 and some odd change later, along with a keychain Cresent wrench later.  The machine still won't wring the water out.  It was here that I was noticing it wasn't going into high speed spin.

What it did show me is that, whether you need it to or not, every year you need to maintain these machine just like everything else to keep it functioning for a long time.:idea:

It was here I figured I needed some "extra" assistance and that is when I found..."The Samuri".:samurai:

I figured if this was like any other web forum, SOMEONE had posted a similar problem sometime in its lifetime.  Couple different searchs and I was off and running.  Found the trouple shooting sheets in the bottom of the machine, (And they are still there now) and having read some of the stuff about door switches, I figured it was a place to start.

I needed to get into the back of the maching and the way our hoses are set-up, that meant un-hooking the machine.  OK, now I got a cold water inlet screen that is full of scale.  At least it still was filling for now.  It is loose and pulls out easy. (The scale, not the screen)

So the test on the 9 and 4 pin connectors come out good, but it keeps talking about a door lock switch with no other information.  A little studying of the wiring diagram and the reference on this form to the test connector get me to looking at the door lock a little closer. 

The test connector is telling me whether or not there is a voltage drop across an open or closed switch.  It won't be a big reading at all if it is not functioning correctly.  We had like .4-.58 volts AC across the connector.  So now, how can I confirm if the switch is bad? :huh:  Go back to the wiring diagram.  The test connector is nothing more than a way to Hard wire around the door lock switch.  Time for Mr. Paperclip to help out.

Put in the paperclip, turn on the machine and we got........High speed spin.:clapping:

Back together with the machine for now until I can get a switch to install.  The paperclip got taken out and replaced with an actual insulated wire until I can get an switch in the machine.

The wife's happiness is too important to just leave the washer taken apart in the washroom.

:party:

 

Thanks again to this great forum.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

A gripping saga of your repair adventure, Farmerj, mega domo's for sharing! And thanks for adding your experience to the Borg of appliance repair wisdom here at the Samurai School of Appliantology.

You have proven yourself worthy in battle and have progressed beyond the larval stage of "Grasshopper." You are now an Apprentice Appliantologist on the way to full appliance repair mastery. :cheers:

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