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GE JKP86SFSS Oven Not Heating Bake or Broil but panel works


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13 replies to this topic

#1 dbeaty

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Posted 26 July 2015 - 03:44 PM

Trying to figure this out. I've done some more testing. Heating elements are good. Tested the relays Bake and Broil both 110 V. IOW power to oven but it's off and I get 110V on both relays bake and broil. But if I set bake on, I get 0 V on bake and 0 V on broil. Tested power on L1 and L2 and have 220 V on those.

 

Does anyone know what else I could test before I order a new Oven Control Board? I'd prefer not to have to pull out the whole Microwave Oven combo from the wall mount to check the Thermal Fuse. Can't I test the Thermal fuse from it's leads to the control panel? Just wondering. I have the schematics but am having trouble finding that on the page.

 

Thanks



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#2 LI-NY Tech

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Posted 26 July 2015 - 04:47 PM

Doesn't look like this model uses a fuse for the bake and broil circuits. You should get 220 between L2 and yellow on bake and between L2 and purple on broil. That will test the relay output.

With the power off at the circuit breaker you should have about 20 ohms from L2 to yellow and about 15 ohms from L2 to purple (with yellow and purple disconnected). That will test the bake and broil circuits for opens or shorts.
David
RD Appliance Service, Corp.
PO Box 234, Bethpage, NY, 11714
516-561-0523
http://www.rdapplianceservice.com
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#3 dbeaty

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Posted 26 July 2015 - 08:08 PM

Doesn't look like this model uses a fuse for the bake and broil circuits. You should get 220 between L2 and yellow on bake and between L2 and purple on broil. That will test the relay output.

With the power off at the circuit breaker you should have about 20 ohms from L2 to yellow and about 15 ohms from L2 to purple (with yellow and purple disconnected). That will test the bake and broil circuits for opens or shorts.

Thank you so much LI-NY tech! Appreciate the help here. I'll let you know if I find something. I'll test L2 and Bake and Broil for 220. Thanks!



#4 dbeaty

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 07:27 AM

Hi, as you suggested I

 

Tested voltage across L2 and Bake Y = 120V OFF and  240 ON

Tested voltage across L2 and Broil V =  120V OFF and  240 ON

 

With Power disconnected resistance shows 1 on both L2 to Y and L2 to V,



#5 LI-NY Tech

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 11:12 AM

So it seems that the board is working properly. I'm not sure what setting you're using on your meter but a resistance reading should be in ohms.
David
RD Appliance Service, Corp.
PO Box 234, Bethpage, NY, 11714
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#6 dbeaty

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 05:32 PM

So it seems that the board is working properly. I'm not sure what setting you're using on your meter but a resistance reading should be in ohms.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

Yes set to lowest Ohms setting. IOW there is no current flow with main power off through L2 to Bake or Broil. It's not reading the .30 ohms. My meter reads 1. when leads not touching, if I touch leads together it goes to about .02

 

Aside from that I read this model has a thermal switch or fuse on the back behind the enclosure that can fail. But the whole enclosure has to be pulled out. Microwave and all. If you think the relays are OK, it must be that? Was hoping to test it using the leads to the control board but I can't read the schematic well enough.

 

Heres the schematics two images

 

https://oven2.shutte...com/pictures/12



#7 LI-NY Tech

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 05:55 PM

You can see on the schematic that the fuses are part of the self clean circuit and do not interrupt the bake and broil circuits. Since you're getting the correct voltage from the relays and there is nothing else in line with the elements either the elements or the wiring are the problem.

To verify this you'll need to get a reading in ohms on those circuits, it should be pretty close to the ohm specs I posted a couple of posts up.

You also need to make sure the yellow and purple wires are disconnected from the relays when reading ohms so you inadvertently get a reading through a different circuit.

Edited by LI-NY Tech, 27 July 2015 - 05:55 PM.

David
RD Appliance Service, Corp.
PO Box 234, Bethpage, NY, 11714
516-561-0523
http://www.rdapplianceservice.com
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#8 dbeaty

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 06:04 PM

You can see on the schematic that the fuses are part of the self clean circuit and do not interrupt the bake and broil circuits. Since you're getting the correct voltage from the relays and there is nothing else in line with the elements either the elements or the wiring are the problem.

To verify this you'll need to get a reading in ohms on those circuits, it should be pretty close to the ohm specs I posted a couple of posts up.

You also need to make sure the yellow and purple wires are disconnected from the relays when reading ohms so you inadvertently get a reading through a different circuit.

OK I'll try that. With leads disconnected from relay and from DBL to Broil is 22 ohms and DBL to Bake is 17.6 ohms

 

Here's something from the other side of the Schematics "Thermal Cutout Switch, A self-resetting disc type thermal cutout switch is mounted to the rear of the oven. The switch will open the L2 leg of the power to the heating elements in the event of an over temperature condition. The switch will open when the panel it is mounted to reaches approximately 284 and will close as the pael cools to approximately 254 there is no indication to the customer when the switch opens" Perhaps that switch is stuck open and failed? Can you see any way for me to test that one?

 

Also Based on the schematic top connector section with the temp probe and door lock sensors, I tested temp probe on 6 & 8 reads 1090 so that looks good. I have continuity on 3 & 5 but not 4 & 5



#9 dbeaty

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 06:07 PM

Is that right, before I tried L2 to Bake Broil, but I think the K104 is open normally so DBL looks like the one I wanted?



#10 LI-NY Tech

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 07:03 PM

2l6clx.jpg

 

The red line represents the L2 voltage path and the orange represents L1 voltage path (together they give you 220/240VAC).

 

Ok, so the schematic I was originally looking at didn't show that fuse.  It is inline with the bake and broil circuits.  So, you CAN check that without pulling the oven.  Check for continuity from Yellow and Purple (on RLY102 and RLY103, with the wires removed from the relays) TO L2 at the terminal block.  If both are open the fuse is open.  If both have resistance then the fuse is not open.

 

But the ONLY way to check is from Y (RLY103) and PR (RYL102) to L2 at the terminal block.  Checking anywhere else won't give you an answer.  


Edited by LI-NY Tech, 27 July 2015 - 07:04 PM.

David
RD Appliance Service, Corp.
PO Box 234, Bethpage, NY, 11714
516-561-0523
http://www.rdapplianceservice.com
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#11 dbeaty

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 08:56 PM

Thanks! Looking at my combo oven. I think the terminal block is behind the install cabinet. So, at this point it's going to be the ol' pull 'er out. I'm thinking it's that Thermal Cut Off Switch. At least that's a bunch less dough than a new control until. I'll let you know what I find. Stay tuned!



#12 dbeaty

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Posted Yesterday, 06:55 PM

Ok the saga continues. Removed front bezel and tested the temp switches on the Door Latch both good. Pulled the oven out and tested the Thermal Cut off Switch, Good. Now I'm stumped.  One note. I was thinking about how i tested the Temp Sensor. I had my digital multimeter on 2K but the video I watched said to use lowest scale 200. If I was on 2K it would read 1.089. But if I had it on 200 it would read 1. same as no connection. If I have it on buzzer, no sound. So maybe I did that wrong?



#13 dbeaty

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Posted Today, 08:09 AM

 

 

But the ONLY way to check is from Y (RLY103) and PR (RYL102) to L2 at the terminal block.  Checking anywhere else won't give you an answer.  

 

I will check this on Friday and see what I find.

 

One more idea. How does RYL104 work? This is the one that switches from L2 to  and a resistor and i think "W" from DBL (DBL contact goes to BAKE and BROIL Relays out) 

 

When I originally tested L2 to bake broil, L2 to bake broil was open, but DBL to Bake Broil was 240VAC. So maybe I did that wrong.

 

sorry can't upload pics

 

RLY104

 

L2-   \  /   -------------------------R114----------------"W"

          |

       DBL-|

               |

               |--------bake Y

               |--------broil  V



#14 leamy

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Posted Today, 08:46 AM

with power off measure ohms from pr and y wires at board you should have a reading of 35 to 75 ohms.

 

if this is so then both elements are good.

 

then with power on check for 220 at pr and bk if you have 220 then the thermal is good.

 

for the gurus out there the meter  itself will not show a load the to circuit so the element can pass enough voltage to test for 220

 

it the fuse is bad I will explain how to reset it on the next email






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