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Peerless -Premier 36"gas range P36S328BP


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9 replies to this topic

#1 mischnick

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 09:13 PM

Electric ignition. Oven control does not initiate spark. We can light the oven pilot by using one of the RH side burners, as the oven ignitor sparks with them. I tried replacing the switch on the oven control, but the old and new switch both show continuity when the oven control is on so I believe the switch was fine. Connecting the leads to the switch together does not initiate spark either. I had read on this forum that there may be some temp or flame sensor for the pilot, but if so, I can't figure how it works. The only thermocouple line I see goes from the pilot flame to the main burner gas valve. Any ideas what else could be at fault?

Thanks!
Matt

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#2 certified tech group 51

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Posted 31 August 2015 - 10:11 AM

what is your series number????         I am looking a the "P" series for parts..........it could be one of the two spark modules... a 4 +2  and a 2+1...check the wire diagram stuck on the rear of the unit........The spark module switches are 'hot ' on one side , I.E. 120 volts and the switches are in series.......could be a loose connection at one of the switches..............When the oven control is turned on, the spark ignites the pilot light, the pilot light warms the thermo-couple which allows the gas valve to open......



#3 mischnick

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Posted 31 August 2015 - 08:29 PM

Series number is P. I was wondering if it must be one of the spark modules as well. Since it was still sparking when the RH burners were turned on, I guessed on the switch for the oven control, hoping to pull it out only once, but I was wrong on that score. There is 120v at the oven switch with power plugged in, and (with power disconnected!) the oven switch gives continuity all they way back to the spark module, so the wires appear to be sound and connections are tight. I just re-read your post, though, and I get now what you mean about loose connections on other burner controls farther up the series connection path. I didn't check that! Mores the pity as it's back in for the time being...

How does the spark module know when to stop sparking for the oven? Does it sense the pilot flame? Or does it just spark for a short period of time? I know I did note that a year or so after install that it was sparking a lot less when the oven lit, maybe only one or two clicks, but it didn't begin to fail to light until maybe another year or so.

In your opinion, if it isn't the switch (or the upstream series connections) does it have to be the spark module? If there is nothing else in the circuit to control it, maybe that is my only possible culprit.

Thanks!

#4 certified tech group 51

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Posted 31 August 2015 - 09:30 PM

looking at the wire diagram, the oven will spark only with the oven control turned on........One hot wire in ( black ) and one wire out (brown ) to the thermostat......Oven thermostat switch is different from the other six switches, at least in part number..............On the oven control knob, isn't there a 'light' position and a temp. set position??? .



#5 mischnick

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Posted Yesterday, 06:37 AM

No, there is no lite position, the oven switch is "on" everywhere except for the "off" position. The burner switches are "on" only at the light position. So I assume there must be something that gets it to stop sparking, but if it confirms the pilot is lit, or if it just times out, I don't know. I can't see how else the park ignitor might confirm that the pilot lit, because it doesn't have any obvious connection to the pilot thermocouple. But maybe it is something non-obvious. I had a furnace with no separate flame sensor, it just used feedback from the hot surface ignitor to sense the flame. So there are plenty of things in the world I haven't heard of yet!

Thanks for any ideas!
Matt

#6 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted Yesterday, 07:18 AM

The oven switch is different in that it is only off in one position of the oven t-stat knob, (OFF), at any temp setting the switch should be on, sending power to the ignition module on the oven reig terminal.

 

The surface burners are not reig(re-ignite) circuits and spark continously when in the LITE position.

 

All surface and oven ignitors click when any surface burner is turned on and all surface and oven ignitors click when the oven is turned on but they will only click one or two times, (or until the oven pilot lights - the REIG/re-ignite circuit for the oven senses the pilot has lit by the mill-amps of voltage that will pass thru the oven pilot flame and stops the sparking of the ignitors and only starts sparking again if the oven pilot goes out).

 

EDITED TO ADD: I was typing this before your last post Matt and the above is a little wrong since there are two ignition modules.  If you turn on either the oven or any of the four right burners on, the oven and four right burners spark.  If you turn on either of the two left burners only those two will spark since they use the seperate 2+1 module.

 

If all your wiring and oven spark switch is OK then the only thing it can be is the 4+1 ignition module.

 

There are two ignition modules, (CTG51 made a mistake in calling one a 4+2),  one module is a 4+1 and the other is a 2+1, (first number is the number of manual spark outputs and the second number is the number of reig/re-ignite outputs).

 

Since you have 6 surface burners they use all of the manual outputs on both modules and only the reig circuit on one of the modules.  Both modules shouldn't be bad and if the wires are long enough you could swap the oven spark switch wires from the bad module to the reig circuit on the other module and it should work, (it's going to be a little more difficult then that because the common for the oven is paired with the common for the right four surface burners).

 

Here's the wiring diagram of the spark switches

36-inch-sealed-burner-switch-wires.jpg

 

You would have to swap the oven spark output ignitor wire(REIG) from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module then you would have to swap the COMMON-Black#2, MANUAL-Red#3 and REIG-Brown#1 from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module then swap the COMMON-Yellow#4 and MANUAL-Orange#5 from the 2+1 module to the 4+1 module.

 

The Yellow and Orange, COMMON and MANUAL on the 2+1 module could be reversed, from the above diagram there is no way for me to tell which would be MANUAL and COMMON but it really wouldn't matter as it just completes the manual circuit for the two left burners.


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, Yesterday, 07:47 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#7 mischnick

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Posted Yesterday, 07:38 AM

Great info. Now I know what reig means! Thought it must be something German. Like Blitz Reig! As I was reading your reply I was also starting to imagine using the other reig circuit, but we will have to see if I am comfortable with my ability to understand and re-arrange the wiring that much. I will take another look at it some time this week. Would save me $100 if it works.

So the signal to stop the spark must come back along the ignitor wire then? Pretty clever stuff.

Thanks again for the great info on how it all works! Peerless doesn't have a lot of info out, at least that I can find.

Matt

#8 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted Yesterday, 07:43 AM

Well, CRAP!!!

 

After that long brillant post I realized I made one major mistake - the above may very well get your oven working but there is going to be a major problem when you try to turn on any of the surface burners!!!!

 

When you turn on either of the two left most surface burners, the four right surface burners will spark so the two you are trying to turn on won't be sparking and if you turn on any of the four right most burners, the two left most will be sparking, so again any of the four that you are trying to light won't be sparking.

 

It could still be made to work but would take swapping only the oven spark output (REIG) wire from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module and swapping the BROWN#1 Oven REIG input from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module and jumping the COMMON input of the 4+1 and 2+1 modules.


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, Yesterday, 07:55 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#9 mischnick

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Posted Yesterday, 09:18 AM

Yes, I follow that. I was wondering about simply disconnecting the Oven switch common from the 4+1 chain, and tying the oven switch common into the 2+1 common (yellow or orange, whichever it turns out to be). And then swapping the BRN#1 from the 4+1 Reig over to the 2+1 module Reig connection. Would require some extra wiring, but would preserve the separate commons. If the two ignitors have different commons, is there some reason for that? A reason that might make connecting the commons for the two modules a bad idea?

 

Thanks,



#10 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted Today, 07:36 AM

I'm sure either way should work fine, just depends on how much wire hacking you want to do.  My suggested way you could easily put it back to factory if need and would not require cutting any wiring, just need two 1/4" piggy-back connectors to put on each COMMON and one jumper wire between the two modules, (which I would think would be pretty close together - I've never worked on one setup this way so don't really know what it actually looks like).

 

The only reason they set it up the way it is, they don't make a 6+1 spark module, (4+1 is the most they go to for surface ignitors).

 

Don't know why the went to the extra expense of using a 2+1 module instead of a 2+0 for the extra two burners.

 

The Premier part# for the 4+1 module is 2356, (the Harper-Wyman part# is 6547S0001 - older part# 6547G1001)

In stock at AppliancePartsPros

Part number: 2356

Part number: 2356

 

Same module under the Whirlpool part# (2 available on E-Bay that should be the exact same style as yours)

31829601 Whirlpool OVEN Spark Module REPLACES, AP4041564, PS2033660, 6547s0001, AH2033660, EA2033660, R0703585, Y07714300, Y07725200, Y07726900

Shows as No Longer Available  at APP

Part number: 31829601

Part number: 31829601

 

Search Ebay for 2356 Spark Module and you will find a better deal on one, ($56.50+4.95 ship)


Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, Today, 07:43 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501




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