Peerless -Premier 36"gas range P36S328BP
Posted 28 August 2015 - 09:13 PM
Posted Yesterday, 10:11 AM
what is your series number???? I am looking a the "P" series for parts..........it could be one of the two spark modules... a 4 +2 and a 2+1...check the wire diagram stuck on the rear of the unit........The spark module switches are 'hot ' on one side , I.E. 120 volts and the switches are in series.......could be a loose connection at one of the switches..............When the oven control is turned on, the spark ignites the pilot light, the pilot light warms the thermo-couple which allows the gas valve to open......
Posted Yesterday, 08:29 PM
How does the spark module know when to stop sparking for the oven? Does it sense the pilot flame? Or does it just spark for a short period of time? I know I did note that a year or so after install that it was sparking a lot less when the oven lit, maybe only one or two clicks, but it didn't begin to fail to light until maybe another year or so.
In your opinion, if it isn't the switch (or the upstream series connections) does it have to be the spark module? If there is nothing else in the circuit to control it, maybe that is my only possible culprit.
Posted Yesterday, 09:30 PM
looking at the wire diagram, the oven will spark only with the oven control turned on........One hot wire in ( black ) and one wire out (brown ) to the thermostat......Oven thermostat switch is different from the other six switches, at least in part number..............On the oven control knob, isn't there a 'light' position and a temp. set position??? .
Posted Today, 06:37 AM
Thanks for any ideas!
Posted Today, 07:18 AM
The oven switch is different in that it is only off in one position of the oven t-stat knob, (OFF), at any temp setting the switch should be on, sending power to the ignition module on the oven reig terminal.
The surface burners are not reig(re-ignite) circuits and spark continously when in the LITE position.
All surface and oven ignitors click when any surface burner is turned on and all surface and oven ignitors click when the oven is turned on but they will only click one or two times, (or until the oven pilot lights - the REIG/re-ignite circuit for the oven senses the pilot has lit by the mill-amps of voltage that will pass thru the oven pilot flame and stops the sparking of the ignitors and only starts sparking again if the oven pilot goes out).
EDITED TO ADD: I was typing this before your last post Matt and the above is a little wrong since there are two ignition modules. If you turn on either the oven or any of the four right burners on, the oven and four right burners spark. If you turn on either of the two left burners only those two will spark since they use the seperate 2+1 module.
If all your wiring and oven spark switch is OK then the only thing it can be is the 4+1 ignition module.
There are two ignition modules, (CTG51 made a mistake in calling one a 4+2), one module is a 4+1 and the other is a 2+1, (first number is the number of manual spark outputs and the second number is the number of reig/re-ignite outputs).
Since you have 6 surface burners they use all of the manual outputs on both modules and only the reig circuit on one of the modules. Both modules shouldn't be bad and if the wires are long enough you could swap the oven spark switch wires from the bad module to the reig circuit on the other module and it should work, (it's going to be a little more difficult then that because the common for the oven is paired with the common for the right four surface burners).
Here's the wiring diagram of the spark switches
You would have to swap the oven spark output ignitor wire(REIG) from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module then you would have to swap the COMMON-Black#2, MANUAL-Red#3 and REIG-Brown#1 from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module then swap the COMMON-Yellow#4 and MANUAL-Orange#5 from the 2+1 module to the 4+1 module.
The Yellow and Orange, COMMON and MANUAL on the 2+1 module could be reversed, from the above diagram there is no way for me to tell which would be MANUAL and COMMON but it really wouldn't matter as it just completes the manual circuit for the two left burners.
Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, Today, 07:47 AM.
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Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Posted Today, 07:38 AM
So the signal to stop the spark must come back along the ignitor wire then? Pretty clever stuff.
Thanks again for the great info on how it all works! Peerless doesn't have a lot of info out, at least that I can find.
Posted Today, 07:43 AM
After that long brillant post I realized I made one major mistake - the above may very well get your oven working but there is going to be a major problem when you try to turn on any of the surface burners!!!!
When you turn on either of the two left most surface burners, the four right surface burners will spark so the two you are trying to turn on won't be sparking and if you turn on any of the four right most burners, the two left most will be sparking, so again any of the four that you are trying to light won't be sparking.
It could still be made to work but would take swapping only the oven spark output (REIG) wire from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module and swapping the BROWN#1 Oven REIG input from the 4+1 module to the 2+1 module and jumping the COMMON input of the 4+1 and 2+1 modules.
Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, Today, 07:55 AM.
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501