My dishwasher is 2 yr old and has blown out the thermal fuse again. This started once out of warranty and has been replaced 3 times. Obviously a bigger problem involved. Model number is KUDR01TJBL1 (saw another post for a KUD01TJBL which needed an updated circuit board, not sure about this model though).
Any help is surely appreciated.
Lahn
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Kitchenaid Dishwasher blows thermal fuse
Started by
Guest_Lahn_*
, May 17 2005 07:18 AM
4 replies to this topic
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#2
Guest_lahn_*
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Posted 17 May 2005 - 10:01 AM
Doesn't seem to be much interest so let me ask some questions. Everything is completely dead once the fuse is blown. A new fuse has fixed the d/w for a couple of months. It seems likely that its a short in the heating element. Where should I start looking for the problem?
#3
Guest_shane_*
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Posted 17 May 2005 - 12:19 PM
my dishwasher is not working either, same model as yours everything is dead were is that fuse you are talking about i also know that my element was on when it happened.
#4
Pegi
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Posted 17 May 2005 - 12:39 PM
[align=left]DISHWASHERS WITH ELECTRONIC[/align]
[align=left]CONTROL[/align]
[align=left]Models: KUD01, DU640XT, DUL300XT, GU1100XT, GU1200XT, GU1500XT, GU2300XT[/align]
[align=left]Serial Code Range: FK28 – FM04[/align]
[align=left]STOPS IN MID-CYCLE, INDICATOR LIGHTS BLINKING[/align]
[align=left]Dishwasher will stop in mid-cycle and will not advance.[/align]
[align=left]One or more of the cycle, option and status indicator lights[/align]
[align=left]will blink.[/align]
[align=left]K8178151[/align]
[align=left]January 2002 [/align]
[align=left]CONDITION:[/align]
[align=left]CAUSE:[/align]
[align=left]RESOLUTION:[/align]
[align=left]The electronic control is reacting to higher than normal[/align]
[align=left]line voltage, (over 125 volts), and higher than normal line[/align]
[align=left]signal distortion that exists in some parts of the country.[/align]
[align=left]A revised electronic control, part #8530909, is available[/align]
[align=left]to better handle high voltage conditions. The current stock[/align]
[align=left]of replacement electronic controls has been reworked, to[/align]
[align=left]supplement production controls being produced. Modified[/align]
[align=left]controls will have a label, “REWORKED HI-LINE” to[/align]
[align=left]identify them as reworked controls and are approved as[/align]
[align=left]service replacements.[/align]
[align=left]NOTE: If the line voltage is normal and a single Cycle,[/align]
[align=left]Option or Rinse Only light is blinking, the cause is usually[/align]
[align=left]a stuck or shorted keypad on the active overlay, not the[/align]
[align=left]control. A resistance check of the active overlay should[/align]
[align=left]always be made, using the keypad matrix in the product[/align]
[align=left]tech sheet, prior to replacing the electronic control.[/align]
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#5
Guest_Lahn_*
Guest_Lahn_*
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Posted 17 May 2005 - 03:26 PM
Shane,
Hmmm, curious now b/c someone else has this problem. The thermal fuse block is behind the control panel. Just remove the top screws (inside the door) and the first few on each side near the top, also loosen the screws holding the panel on so you can slip the control panel off. It's the white one inch peice of plastic with two wires coming in at each side. It's molded with a small clip on it so it'll clip onto the black control panel (not the board). Let me know if you want more detail b/c I'll have to take mine off anyway and can snap a photo for you if you'd like.
Hope this helps. BTW, the first time, we were able to limp by for several months before it blew again. The second time it only lasted about 5 weeks. Also you can pull the part # directly off the part and goto repairclinic.com. I looked locally but couldn't find anyone who had one in stock. Guess they're not that popular.
Good luck,
Lahn
Hmmm, curious now b/c someone else has this problem. The thermal fuse block is behind the control panel. Just remove the top screws (inside the door) and the first few on each side near the top, also loosen the screws holding the panel on so you can slip the control panel off. It's the white one inch peice of plastic with two wires coming in at each side. It's molded with a small clip on it so it'll clip onto the black control panel (not the board). Let me know if you want more detail b/c I'll have to take mine off anyway and can snap a photo for you if you'd like.
Hope this helps. BTW, the first time, we were able to limp by for several months before it blew again. The second time it only lasted about 5 weeks. Also you can pull the part # directly off the part and goto repairclinic.com. I looked locally but couldn't find anyone who had one in stock. Guess they're not that popular.
Good luck,
Lahn
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