Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Kitchenaid Dishwasher blows thermal fuse


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 Lurker_Lahn_*

Lurker_Lahn_*
  • Lurking at the Threshold

Posted 17 May 2005 - 07:18 AM

My dishwasher is 2 yr old and has blown out the thermal fuse again.  This started once out of warranty and has been replaced 3 times.  Obviously a bigger problem involved.  Model number is KUDR01TJBL1 (saw another post for a KUD01TJBL which needed an updated circuit board, not sure about this model though).

Any help is surely appreciated.

Lahn


Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Lurker_lahn_*

Lurker_lahn_*
  • Lurking at the Threshold

Posted 17 May 2005 - 10:01 AM

Doesn't seem to be much interest so let me ask some questions.  Everything is completely dead once the fuse is blown.  A new fuse has fixed the d/w for a couple of months.  It seems likely that its a short in the heating element.  Where should I start looking for the problem?

#3 Lurker_shane_*

Lurker_shane_*
  • Lurking at the Threshold

Posted 17 May 2005 - 12:19 PM

my dishwasher is not working either, same model as yours everything is dead were is that fuse you are talking about i also know that my element was on when it happened.

#4 Pegi

Pegi

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,120 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Sweet Iced Tea

Posted 17 May 2005 - 12:39 PM


[align=left]DISHWASHERS WITH ELECTRONIC[/align]
[align=left]CONTROL[/align]

[align=left]Models: KUD01, DU640XT, DUL300XT, GU1100XT, GU1200XT, GU1500XT, GU2300XT[/align]
[align=left]Serial Code Range: FK28 – FM04[/align]

[align=left]STOPS IN MID-CYCLE, INDICATOR LIGHTS BLINKING[/align]

[align=left]Dishwasher will stop in mid-cycle and will not advance.[/align]
[align=left]One or more of the cycle, option and status indicator lights[/align]
[align=left]will blink.[/align]

[align=left]K8178151[/align]
[align=left]January 2002
 [/align]
[align=left]CONDITION:[/align]
[align=left]CAUSE:[/align]
[align=left]RESOLUTION:[/align]

[align=left]The electronic control is reacting to higher than normal[/align]
[align=left]line voltage, (over 125 volts), and higher than normal line[/align]
[align=left]signal distortion that exists in some parts of the country.[/align]
[align=left]A revised electronic control, part #8530909, is available[/align]
[align=left]to better handle high voltage conditions. The current stock[/align]
[align=left]of replacement electronic controls has been reworked, to[/align]
[align=left]supplement production controls being produced. Modified[/align]
[align=left]controls will have a label, “REWORKED HI-LINE” to[/align]
[align=left]identify them as reworked controls and are approved as[/align]
[align=left]service replacements.[/align]

[align=left]NOTE:
If the line voltage is normal and a single Cycle,[/align]
[align=left]Option or Rinse Only light is blinking, the cause is usually[/align]
[align=left]a stuck or shorted keypad on the active overlay, not the[/align]
[align=left]control. A resistance check of the active overlay should[/align]
[align=left]always be made, using the keypad matrix in the product[/align]
[align=left]tech sheet, prior to replacing the electronic control.[/align]

Buy your parts here! Posted ImagePosted ImageRead More

If we helped you kick some appliance bootay and saved you some coin, consider helping' us keep the lights on ==> http://beer.fixitnow.com

Are you a Master Appliantologist? ==> http://appliantology...ppliantologist/

#5 Lurker_Lahn_*

Lurker_Lahn_*
  • Lurking at the Threshold

Posted 17 May 2005 - 03:26 PM

Shane,

Hmmm, curious now b/c someone else has this problem.  The thermal fuse block is behind the control panel.  Just remove the top screws (inside the door) and the first few on each side near the top, also loosen the screws holding the panel on so you can slip the control panel off.  It's the white one inch peice of plastic with two wires coming in at each side.  It's molded with a small clip on it so it'll clip onto the black control panel (not the board).  Let me know if you want more detail b/c I'll have to take mine off anyway and can snap a photo for you if you'd like.

Hope this helps.  BTW, the first time, we were able to limp by for several months before it blew again.  The second time it only lasted about 5 weeks.  Also you can pull the part # directly off the part and goto repairclinic.com.  I looked locally but couldn't find anyone who had one in stock.  Guess they're not that popular.

Good luck,

Lahn





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics