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Maytag 3000 Series mhwe300vw11 F28


streeterk

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It all started one balmy summer afternoon when my lovely wife said "Hey, the washer won’t turn on.  It worked fine last night and I tried all the normal stuff like checking the outlet for power and moving the cord to a known good receptacle, but no joy.  Could you please take a look at when you have time?"

 

I sure love having a capable and patient wife.

 

Not wanting my lovely bride to feel unimportant, I sprang from my chair, put down my ice cold beer and rushed to the garage to investigate.

 

After spending a few minutes removing the covers, I discovered that leaving the kick plate off the washer, to ease the frequently necessary chore of cleaning the drain filter, may not have been the best idea I have ever had since it was evident that a large rat had decided to nest in the machine and completely chew through three separate wiring harnesses.

 

The little darling had managed to chewed through almost every wire in the main harness from the CCU to the MCU and door latch assembly, every wire in the harness from the CCU to the front control panel and every wire in the harness between the two circuit boards in the front control panel.

 

Fortunately, I was able to find all the parts and replace them without too much trouble, though the main harness I ordered was slightly different than the original.  All the molded plugs were the same, but there were some minor differences in the ground cables.

 

After reassembling the washer I decided to test it before I stacked the dryer on top of it and everything seemed to work OK except the drum would not spin and I eventually got an error code F28.

 

So far, I have visually inspected the MCU and I can’t find any obvious defects.  The door locks, unlocks and re-locks.  I get a squirt of water in the tub, the relay on the MCU clicks and I am pretty sure I get some sort of AC power to the motor for a second or two, but the motor will not spin at all.

 

From the wiring diagram, it seems like the MCU should be grounded and motor should be isolated from ground by the panel switches but I can’t be sure so I have tried modifying the ground situation to several different configurations with no apparent effect.

 

The wiring diagram, and circuitry in the MCU lead me to believe that it does a little more than close a relay to supply power to the motor, I suspect the MCU contains a three phase inverter that supplies the motor power so I am afraid to get too creative testing the motor.

 

Any insight you could offer to help me troubleshoot my problem would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance,

Kurt

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  • streeterk

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Kurt,

Does your modified grounding situation still utilize the grounding switch behind the kick panel?

If so, I would recommend engaging it (tape it down for test purposes).

Just a thought. I've had problems with those in the past.

Clark.

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Thank you for your reply.

I have tried that already, even though the washer worked fine without the kick panel in place before the repair.

Kurt

 

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These statements in the tech info for these model seem pertinent:

3. Check that the serial harness at the MCU is not mounted upside down. The wires should be to the left when facing the MCU connectors.

7. Check door switch system. (See checklist for F26 and F29). The door switch may cause interference for the power supply of the MCU

F26 checklist says:

Possible Causes/Procedure: ■ Door not opened during 3 consecutive cycles. ■ Door switch open while door is locked

1. Open and close the door.

2. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

 1. Push the door and check if it is completely closed.

2. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

3. Check door switch contacts.

4. The resistance of both door coils (between pin 1 and pin 3) should be approx. 320 Ω

F29 checklist is similar to F26:  Possible Causes/Procedure: ■ Foreign objects in door switch/lock unit. ■ Door lock mechanism is broken. ■ Door switch/lock unit failure.

1. Check door switch/lock unit for foreign objects.

2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.

3. Check the wire harness connections to the door switch/lock unit and Central Control Unit (CCU).

4. Check door switch contacts.

5. The resistance of both door coils (between pin 1 and 3) should be approx. 320 Ω.

 

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