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pdanger01

Fisher paykel gwl10 won't drain...

18 posts in this topic

Fisher and Paykel GWL10 washer stuck at rinse cycle.  Hasn't drained, fills for a couple of seconds then stops, begins filling, stops and so on.  I tried the diagnostics drain pump test (diagnostics mode, regular cycle button), and rather than draining, it fills water into the tub.  Currently have a tub full of sudsy clothes, looking for troubleshooting help.  Any help greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

 

I've spent a little more time troube shooting what I can.  I tested both water valves, and see that incoming water enters the tub at the back of the washer (lid hinge area).  I shut off both water valves to washer, tested to make sure no water flowed.  Then again tested drain pump, and that action pumps water into the tub, but from the right side.  Hope that narrows it down.  Again, any help greatly appreciated.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Replace the Diverter Valve, PN 426862P

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Thanks for the reply  ktsennya2I also found this thread (didn't come up in my first searches) that sounds like the same problem I'm having.

http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=85&forum_id=2&highlight=gwl10

Person didn't reply with what the actual conclusion was, but seems like he took the same approach to the repair.  In my extremely limited knowledge of washers (6 hours of reading and research last night) the diverter valve certainly seems to make the most sense, plus somebody (ktsennya2) who actually knows what they're talking about reccommended it.  I am going to start (and hopefully finish) with that.  Any tips on replacing this part?  All I know is that it is under the drum, so I'm assuming tipping washer on it's front will gain the needed access.  Anything I should test first?  Thanks in advance for any additional input.  Also, thanks for providing the part number. 

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We had the EXACT same problem this evening. After some troubleshooting (before heading to the internet), I came to the conclusion that it was something about the pump not sending the water to the drain pump, but cycling back into the tub. Diverter valve certainly makes sense, and I was hoping you tried it and might let us know if that did the trick.

If you repaired it yourself, any pearls of wisdom? I'll be getting quotes from a repairman, but if the price is too high (probably will be), I'll be looking into doing it myself. Thanks to both pdanger and ktsenya for info.

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Go ahead and replace the diverter valve.  Very easy to do from the bottom on that model.  Had a call about a month ago on a machine doing the same thing.  Only takes a couple minutes (drain the water by hand first) and your done. 

Brian

 

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Yes, problem was diverter valve.  Fisher and Paykel customer care line was of no help, so you came to the right place.  Just as TechnicianBrian said, replacement is easy.  Bail out the washer by hand, flip forward onto face (you may want to have a towel down, I had a bit of water come out after tipping washer).  hoses have spring type clamps (just squeeze to remove), remove hoses, remove two wires (remember where they go), reverse procedure for new valve.  Less than half an hour including bailing.  Hope this helps you out a little bit.  The forum here really helped me out.

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Help please, I am having the same problem.... I believe... however, it happens during the fill process rather than the rinse.

I have had a local repairman come and try to fix this, but he doesn't know where to get parts for F&P. He said that he found that a "switch was stuck" and he was able to unstick it... perhaps this would be the Diverter Valve????  At any rate, he suggested trying to run a small load.... well, same problem happened.

I am willing to give it a try if I could get the part. I tried to look the part up on this website and I wasn't able to find Fisher & Paykal parts.

I am new to trying to fix my own appliances.... but with four of us in the house (hubby,myself and two boys in their early 20"s), and none of them know how to fix stuff.... I need your help please.....:yikes:

 

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[user=1409]shortyliz[/user] wrote:

Help please, I am having the same problem.... I believe... however, it happens during the fill process rather than the rinse.

 

Your problem description is sketchy.  What specific problem are you having?

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Oh I am sorry...... the problem is that the machine fills with water to start the wash and then starts to Beep.  I have tried to advance and all that happens is that the machine continues to fill with water.  I believe that I have read, here in this forum, that there is a "diagnostic mode" in which I would be able to empty the machine of the water.... but I don't know how to access the Diagnotic Mode.

 

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Place the machine into diagnostic mode so you can read the bibary fault code.  To enter diagnostic mode:

1. Have the machine plugged in and turn it off at the control panel.

2. Perss and hold the WASH TEMP DOWN the press the POWER button.  The machine will give two short beeps.

3. Using the SPIN SPEED UP or the SPIN SPEED DOWN buttons you can get different information. 

When you press the SPIN SPEED UP button until the HOLD and SLOW SPIN LED's are on, the WASH PROGRESS LED's will display the fault code.  Interpret them using the tech sheet inside the control panel -- pray to pot-bellied, one-eyed, fish-smelly Buddha that you repairguy didn't "borrow" it.

Sounds like you you probably have a bad diverter valve. 

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"tech sheet inside the control panel".  How do I access "INSIDE"  the control panel, please.

Oh, I am saying many prayers to the pot belly.... oh any belly that will listen.

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You know what.... I did print this article out once already and gave it to my "repairguy".  Well, he had planned to go to Major Brands or Coles in Laconia yesterday and see if he could get me the Diverter Valve PN 426862P, which is what I had thought might be the probem, after doing my research on this website.  Well, he never got around to going to Laconia..... so I figured I might as well take matters into my own hands.  Well, I am off to the basement to see if I can find the problem.

I will need to know where to get the Diverter Valve part.... but I will let you know when I return to my computer.

Thanks for all your help.

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Ok, well, the good news is that the tech sheet was where it was supposed to be, so I have it.  I followed your instructions and now have the information, but am not sure how to read the display to calculate the problem.  How about if I relay to you how the display reads and perhaps you can help me some more.

Actually, when I add up the LEDs I come up with a total of 93 and I don't see a Fault Code with the #.:(

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I hope I am not asking too many questions. 

Are you able to help me with the Fault Code number mentioned above.  Also, please.... where do I get the parts.

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This fault means there's a communication problem between the motor controller module and the display board.  Unplug the washers, and take apart the connectors between the display board and the control module and re-seat them  This may be a problem that was induced by the repairguy poking around, or maybe it was the problem all along.  We'll take it one at a time.

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I actually called Fisher Paykel yesterday and they are telling me that parts are under warranty only if an authorized repair person works on the machine.  They are telling me that I shouldn't do anything to the machine myself, as then the warranty for parts is not in effect.  The machine was bought in Nov of 2001.  The reason I called Fisher Paykel was to ask about getting parts.

At this point, what do you think that I should do? Can I schedule an appoint for a service call through you.... or get parts through you.  I really don't know what to do.

 

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Where did you buy the washer?  If from Major Brands, they have a service dept. that should support it.

I'm up in New London and I have all the service calls I can handle serving just New London and surrounding towns (Wilmot, Newbury, North Sutton, Sunapee, Springfield, and sometimes Grantham).  While Concord would be a great market to serve if I lived closer to it, it's just too far to cost-justify it at this point.  Especially considering that many repairs can require two trips. 

I recommend either contacting the service dept of the place you bought it from, or going ahead and doing the repair yourself even if it means paying for the parts, warranty not withstanding. 

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