52 replies to this topic

[m98cox]

I have JTP56W0A3WW.  In looking at the Technical Data Sheet, that was taped inside, it says that F0 is displayed when the keypad is unhooked.

My ovens will beep, display the delay start timer, and flash F7.  I have turned off the breaker, unhooked the blue ribbon keypad cable.  When I turned it back on, the only error I got, in about 5 minutes, was F0.  This would make sense, as the keypad was unhooked.

So, since it beeps and acts odd on its own, sometimes becoming unresponsive requiring  'breaker' intervention, I'm thinking my problem is the keypad.  I'll start there.

Wish I had bought that extended warrant.....  :?

I'll let you know what happens.

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

You need both.

[m98cox]

I replaced the keypad only.  So far so good.

I also noticed that on my old 'bad' keypad, it said Revision 0 on the back.  On the new one, it says Revision 4.

Maybe GE has improved them.  We can only wish.

 

Thanks to all for help/guidance.

[GeneNJ]

:( I previously replaced the ERC six months ago and the F7 is back. Has anyone noticed a tie-in with F7's following a self cleaning cycle? In my case each problem started within a week of doing one.
About the recommeded test of pulling the cable, do you know if the F7 will show before the F0 if the ERC is really bad?

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

The Force teaches us "If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything" .   Back when harryf started spouting that garbage about F0 meaning missing keypad on your JTP56... it was all I could do to contain myself.  I didn't want to get confrontational and I hoped the masses would take his input for what it was worth.  But the sad fact of the matter is,  this........... Person! has polluted an otherwise very informative thread with garbage.  I have posted the lessons I have learned through sheer repetition (here in GE Florida) in this thread.  It would be best to ignore the postings of Harryf. reread the thread if you have to.

GeneNJ,  It is another sad fact that some self cleaning ovens are constructed of materials that do not withstand the high temperatures needed for self cleaning.  I have gone on countless calls where the customer says "it was working fine until we self cleaned it".  If you are getting F7 with the keypad attached and no error with the keypad detached replace the keypad only. 

[Pegi]

Thank you Jedi, appreciate what you do for the forum....;)

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Jedi speaketh much wisdom he does.

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

You know guys,  I bet every tech in this forum wished they got the kind of backup and support  from their managers that you just demonstrated .  The Force is strong here.  Thanks!  If you wish to edit the thread of misleadings including my replies to same I'll support that.   Or leave it...  I guess it could make interesting reading. 

It's just that by answering these questions we are building a database of appliance knowledge that I would like to someday be able to carry with me on service calls.  Bad data is worse than no data at all.  That F0 = missing keypad might work on some other model although I've never seen it, but not on these JTP5600s.  In the real world on the job, fixing the machines is easy.  Removing wrong ideas from customers heads put there by the other "tech" is almost impossible because a good tech will not badmouth the previous tech. 

[Ron]

Jedi,  you are right on man.  It's always good to see your posts.  Speaking of that data base,  I take a Ipaq...(PDA) along with me every day.  I have a ton of info on that thing which has helped me tons.  A lot of that info came right from this site...from experts like you...This is a good place man...Ron

[diydad]

I am encouraged by the fact that someone has a GE Technical Data Sheet stating that an F0 code indicates the keypad is unhooked, because this is the behavior I have been seeing.

I have a JT950B0A5BB that has been experiencing the very same problems stated by m98cox with a JTP56.  It gets random beeps, goes in and out of various timer modes, then eventually receives an F7.

The Technical Data Sheet that accompanied my oven states that an F7 means "Shorted matrix or START key."  For the corrective action it states "Determine if problem is with Key Panel or Control by disconnecting ribbon cable and power up control. If no F code problem is with key circuit."

I did the power-down, disconnect ribbon cable and power-up thing to find that it displayed F0 after 5 minutes.  I concluded that the problem must be the Control, so I replaced it.  When I found I still (and immediately) had the same problem and it failed the disconnect-ribbon-cable test again, I concluded that I must have received a bad part.  (This seemed plausible since I have seen so many reports of these things failing.)  Now, seeing a 2nd new part have the same problem, I'm beginning to think that the information on the Technical Data Sheet is inaccurate.

Based on some other responses, I bet the response I get will be "replace both."  That might be the right answer if these parts were free, but I was hoping to get a little more guidance before surrendering my money.  Is there any way to know conclusively that the problem is with one part, the other or both?

Also, did GE actually change the meaning of the F0 code for different models?  Where can I find Technical Data Sheets so that I can check to see if a new version has been produced for my oven?

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

Dear dad,  What does YOUR tech sheet say F0 equals?  I'm not saying GE wouldn't change the meaning of F0 on another model but I haven't run into it yet.  Sounds to me like you could have benefited from this old post in the MSN group.  I linked to it again earlyer in this thread. I've also copied the relevent part here.

"It's been my experiance when you have an F7 with the keypad attached that changes to a F0 with the keypad detached you need both keypad and ERC.  If you get a F0 with the keypad detached the ERC is bad <period>.  I have replaced only the ERC in this situation more than once  (trying to save my boss or the customer a few bucks) and have gotten callbacks.   Changing only the keypad when you get a F0 with the keypad detached doesn't make any sense.  

 Can't find proof anywhere but, based on my experiance I think it is possible for a bad keypad to take out an ERC.  "

diydad, It sounds to me like you are going through what I went through long time ago.

[m98cox]

Just an update....still, so far so good with only replacing the keypad....

:D

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

May the Force continue to shine favorably upon you.  Would you be so kind as to photograph your tech sheet and post it here so that we may all gase upon it and gain applaince knowledge from it. 

I have left keypads unplugged all day or over night on occasions to find intermittant problems.  Most of the time the ovens clocks functioned and the oven did nothing because there was no keypad attached.  My question is  "where was the expected F0 no keypad"? 

Now I have seen GE microwave ovens on two different chassis with the model JVM1631...

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

The Force is telling me it's the keypad based on the fact that you have a new ERC and it's still doing it.  Still, do the keypad disconnect test. If you get F7 with the pad attached and no error with it detached, you'll have your proof.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

F0 is usually a bad ERC. Confirm by unplugging the touchpad ribbon connector from the ERC and powering the range back up. If you still get the F0, replace the ERC. http://www.repaircli....asp?R=154&P=69