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Dreaded F7 on GE built in.


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52 replies to this topic

#41 madinct

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Posted 07 September 2006 - 01:14 PM

Have JTP56B "O" or zero D1BB double oven installed in Mar 2002; cost $1700.

I too have the F-7 virus.  Joke around here is everyone watching me run to the basement, turn off the breaker, count to 30, turn breaker on and then run like blazes back to the kitchen.  If the clock is blinking, I have a chance at getting the oven to work.  If not, it's back to the marathon again, again, again. Finally, its the 24-48 hour shutdown.

Dinner around here has turned into a sideshow where food is the variable.

Talk about Oven Rage! :rocketman:

What I can't understand is why a state or federal govt official (atty. general) hasn't taken on GE for the sake of the consumer.  I look at all the posts here and we're talking some Serious money!  Someone out there must have the knowledge and the 'force' to get this going.  I know this little lady, all 98 lbs of me, would gladly jump on the band wagon.

No one has mentioned the special "Proof" feature.  When it took me 2 - 3 x's longer to proof my bread (tried 3 times) I called GE service as unit was then under warranty. Tech came out.  Oven wouldn't set at 100 degrees.  Proof didn't seem to work although we both noticed that the oven light came on.  Tech contacted his 'magic' GE number and you won't believe this one.....the Oven Light is the 'Proof" feature!  It is supposed to provide heat of 80 to 100 degrees which, of course, it doesn't.  Heat lamp in the bathroom works better than this.

Trying to get control panel part but RepairClinic.com is out of stock. Wonder why?!!

Another thought, turn the ovens into a storage pantry and cook over an open fire like Granma did. 

Thanks for listening guys!:kiss:


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#42 Jedi Appliance Guy

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Posted 08 September 2006 - 04:48 PM

 
Surely the Force is with you madinct for you have pointed out there seems to be a lot of JTP5600s out there with bad touch pads and/or ERCs. You probably need both but you'll need to do the disconnect test to be sure. True it is, GE, discovered how to turn manufacturing inferior products, into a profitable business, they have. They make money when they sell these appliances to builders and they made more money selling expensive replacements parts to the homeowners. Why should they make them better? I watch them put out the same defective products year after year.

It is finally starting to catch up to them. I'm seeing some people who bought houses with those crappy 2001 model refrigerators get brand new (improved?) refrigerators at little or no cost in 2006 thanks to the hard work of people like our friends at bringgoodthingstolife.org. All 98 lbs of you needs to have a good look at their site. Perhaps it was the Force that guided you here and now there.

Interesting story about the poof feature. I haven't had that complaint yet. Of course most of my customers make reservations for dinner. Many years ago a somewhat common complaint (on any oven) was that the oven was always warm. This was always because someone left the oven light switch on.


#43 madinct

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Posted 09 September 2006 - 02:57 AM

Thanks, Jedi Master.  Went to the site and sent message to the warriors against GE.

Urge all with the F7 virus to do the same.  All voices united make a reverberating noise. 


#44 Lurker_aliegreene@aol.com_*

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Posted 22 September 2006 - 05:24 AM

I just found this exchange and now feel better, as I thought the GE curse was just on my kitchen and oven.

Have a 9 year old GE profile double oven (convection). Had the first f7s a few years ago (after doing the self clean which clearly set something off). The GE repairman at the time actually gave me (what I now realize) is an extra control panel. There was clearly an inkling of a design flaw then.'

Fast forward to Sept 06--the beeps started all over the place. Found a good local appliance co...the repair guy came and was a little baffled...suggested that we replace my old control with the one I had in the box from GE and see what happened. Oven worked for l0 days then f7 again. I did find if I turned off the circuit for a couple of hours and then on again, my oven worked! (I also ran and baked up a storm the other night when that happened).

There is an engineer in Missouri who has a great suggestion, but I lost his email. I am faced with the holiday weekend, no oven and a renewed pledge NEVER to buy a GE product again. I wasn't going to last time, but this is it.
I will gladly join in or help coordinate any class action, if one doesn't exist already. They clearly are making money on the replacement parts (which usually do not work) for this defective design.

#45 Lurker_EE_*

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Posted 01 October 2006 - 02:34 PM

I too encountered the F7 error on my four year old jtp56.  After reading several posts I disconnected the keypad, and guess what, I then recieved an F0.  Great, I believed from reading the posts that both the ERC and keypad would need to be relaced.  Being an electrical engineer I thought that this needed more investigation (I like to replace components, not entire boards.)  I could not find a short in the keypad, although I did find that pins 7 & 13 are normally crossed.  I re-attached they keypad and guess what, no F7 or F0.  I believe that by messing with the keypad pressing buttons in a horizontal position temporarily fixed the short.  I have ordered a new keypad as this will definately fail again.

Here I get to my main point, no F0, and the oven works fine.  How could this be?  Electronics as basic as this do not fix themself magically.  I disconnected the keypad once again, and what did I get, an F0.  I crossed pins 7 & 13 on the ECU with the keypad disconnected and did not recieve an F0.  What does this tell me?  That the ECU has several meanings for an F0, one of them being a disconnected keypad (by monitoring pins 7 & 13).  Personally, I would hate to buy and ECU when none is needed.  Time will tell for sure if replacing only the keypad fixes the problem, but I'll be that it does. 


#46 cdwasher

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 07:04 PM

From what I come away with all of this is this (correct me if I'm wrong) F7 ,disconnect ribbon,if I get F0 and no F7 that cable is defective.all the F0 is saying no communication between cable and ERC (normal) and if no F7,then the cable  is defective.If I get F7 then I have a defective ERC.

#47 Lurker_EE_*

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 05:26 PM

So far, new keypad only and no F codes. 

cdwasher - If you feel comfortable, find the schematics for your oven, then find the keypad pinouts.  If they show that pins 7 & 13 are normally crossed, turn the breaker off to your oven, cross them using a thin wire, then power back on.  If you do not know how to find pins 7 & 13 don't try this.  If you look at the ribbon cable, pins 7 & 13 are the same two no matter what end of the connector you count from.  If you get no F0, then I would try only replacing the keypad. 

On a side note, my 4 yr old ge dishwasher doesn't drain, it leaks and the wheels fall off daily.  My 4 yr old ge microwave has a bad turntable.  Never again will I buy ge. 


#48 drrbey

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 07:36 PM

Does ERC=Electronic clock control kit (item # 875280)? I ordered both this, and the Touch pad and control assembly from repairclinic.com after speaking to the sales rep on the phone. Will installation be relatively simple?

#49 Lurker_ElectricAve_*

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Posted 20 October 2006 - 04:36 PM

I've had same problem for about a year on a JTP56Bxxx.  The first time I pulled the ribbon cable and used an eraser to clean the contacts.  Fixed the problem for six months.  Repeat process and fixed problem for three months.  I'm on my fourth or fifth ribbon cleaning, using alcohol now.  Always seems to fix the problem temporarily.  The last time I was in a bit in a hurry and just pulled the cable out and stuck it back in within 3 sec.  The whole job took 2 mins and the oven is still working.   So why is it that cleaning the ribbon cable can fix a defective keypad or ERC for six months.  Could it be that the contacts between the cable and the panel are of incompatible materials causing a corrosive exchange of (what ions or something?).   Otherwise how can a defective keypad/ERC work fine for months at a time if they're defective.  Doesn't make sense, and the passing of time between failures seems to be the variable that spells corrosion.

And belive me, before I plunk down a couple hundred bucks for a GE part, I'll be looking for another oven (NON-GE) .  Oh did I mention I have a GE profile refrig that keeps freezing up the water dispensor and vegetable drawer  (only in the winter of course).  


#50 Lurker_shashaun_*

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 04:52 AM

hello , i have a kenmore gas stove with touchpad controls . and i would like to know if it would be ok for the time being if i just unplug the touchpad and still be able to use the stove? atleast the top burners safely?:?

#51 cdwasher

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 07:34 AM

You know did you ever think about putting a little surge protector in the recpt.that the stove is pluged into,they sell them in home depot


#52 Lurker_Axle_*

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Posted 15 November 2006 - 09:50 AM

I have a JT950AA GE Profile double oven that has had the sam F0 and F7 error codes.  The oven has been giving these error codes for about the past 18 months.  I have been doing the trick of turning off the breaking and keeping the power off until I need to use the oven.  When I turn the power back on I can usually use the oven for a few hours before getting the errors.

I researched this problem on the interent and found a reference from a Mr. C. Popeck.  I emailed him and he quickly responded with an easily applied fix.  I used his piece of paper fix and that seems to have finally resolved the problem.  My oven has now been energized for about a week with no error codes.


#53 Lurker_emilyabc_*

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 11:39 AM

Can you tell which applied fix you get? We have the same trouble and now thanksgiving is coming, we really need help!!

 

Thanks,

emily





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