Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

No ice or water from Kitchenaid Side by Side


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 BigDaddRock

BigDaddRock

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts

Posted 18 May 2005 - 06:52 AM

Model Number KSBS2SFJBL01
Three year old Kitchenaid Side by Side Refrigerator. The ice and water dispensers are not working. The little lights above each (indicating that the lock is on or off, cubes or crushed, etc.) are working, so it does not appear that there is no electricity getting to unit. Ice Maker is continuing to make ice. Any suggestions?
Also, how do I access the components that control the operation of these mechanisms that are in the freezer door of the side by side?

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Fermented Grand Master
  • 28,809 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 18 May 2005 - 02:38 PM

If I were on the service call, I'd attach my mutimeter to wires that connect to the dispender side of the water inlet valve and then actuate the water dispenser, looking for 120v on my meter. No getty == bad switch in the dispenser. Getty == bad water inlet valve.

Here's a parts diagram of your dispenser in case you need it.

#3 nickfixit

nickfixit

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,143 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Glen Livit

Posted 18 May 2005 - 04:10 PM

You may have broken wires coming out of the bottom of your door. One or more of the wires could have a break between the door and it's harness plug. This has happened on many Whirlpool/Kitchenaid/Kenmore side by sides. The only lasting fix is a new door assembly. Big money!

It's kind of hard to check visually because you have to get this nylon cover off of the harness to get a good look. You can take the cover off of the dispenser and do resistance checks on each wire by unplugging lower harness and matching up wire colors. you got to open and close the door while testing to find the break.

Good luck

Nick

" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#4 BigDaddRock

BigDaddRock

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts

Posted 18 May 2005 - 04:30 PM

Thanks for the diagram. Have you the key that enables me to identify the various numbered parts?
Thanks

#5 leyengt

leyengt

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 8 posts

Posted 04 June 2006 - 10:32 AM

All, I have a somewhat similar problem with my KitchenAid side-by-side. Model # KSRS25QFWH00 and it's over ten years old. I'm not sure if it's as simple as a bad water valve or if I also have an electrical problem.

I get no water at the door dispenser and no ice is being made although the auger rotates when I push in the paddle and I can see and hear the icemaker going through its cycle from time to time. After looking through many of the threads in this forum, I did the following trouble shooting:

Confirmed water supply was open with lots of pressure (and that Bounty works as advertised...)

Located water valve (has two solenoids) and using VOM tested for voltage (got none although the meter jumped a small amount when the water paddle was depressed on just one solenoid). I later took the connectors off just to make sure I was getting the VOM probes on the metal parts of the connectors - still saw no voltage.

I tested for voltage in all cases by depressing the water paddle in the door and of course the refr was plugged in.

The solenoid that directs flow to the refr's reservoir got hot while being tested (same solenoid that I saw the small jump in voltage on)

I tested the resistance of the solenoids, one was ~370 and the other ~355 ohms

Took the tubing off both solenoid outlets and depressed the water paddle - no water from either solenoid.

So..., the absence of voltage make me think it's electrical, but the fact the solenoid got warm says otherwise(?). The resistance measurements are within spec as I understand them - does that mean the valve is OK?

Any help or tips much appreciated.

Greg

#6 Pegi

Pegi

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,120 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Sweet Iced Tea

Posted 04 June 2006 - 12:37 PM

"""Took the tubing off both solenoid outlets and depressed the water paddle - no water from either solenoid"""  sounds like a bad water valve or no water to the valve???  Also you will not have any voltage to the ice maker side of the valve till the ice maker goes thru the harvest cycle and gives voltage to the valve for about 7-8 seconds...
Buy your parts here! Posted ImagePosted ImageRead More

If we helped you kick some appliance bootay and saved you some coin, consider helping' us keep the lights on ==> http://beer.fixitnow.com

Are you a Master Appliantologist? ==> http://appliantology...ppliantologist/

#7 BigDaddRock

BigDaddRock

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts

Posted 04 June 2006 - 01:06 PM

javascript:emoticon(';)', 'images/emoticons/wink.gif')
wink
After resigning myself to the fact that I was getting nowhere, I called in an appliance repairman. He quickly resolved the problem. The wires in that particular model often crimp at the bottom of the freezer door. He opened the taped wires and sure enough two of them had become severed. He then spliced them, rewrapped the wires, and my problem was resolved.
Just a poorly designed wire route. However, it has been working fine since.
Good luck
;)

#8 leyengt

leyengt

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 8 posts

Posted 04 June 2006 - 02:05 PM

Folks, thanks for the quick response and good ideas. I'll check the wiring first, and if everything looks OK there then I'll order a new valve.

The only other idea I've come up with is the water valve having some crud blocking its inlet. I can take it off and try to clean it, but I'll probably spend the $50 and just replace it since its 10+ years old.

I'll let you know what cures the patient. Thanks again.

Greg

#9 leyengt

leyengt

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 8 posts

Posted 19 June 2006 - 02:18 AM

All, the problem turned ut to be the water valve. After checking the wires and finding them at least looking OK, I ordered a new valve and installed it yesterday.

It's good to be back in the water and ice business. Thanks again for your guidance.

Greg




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics