Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

BigDaddRock

No ice or water from Kitchenaid Side by Side

9 posts in this topic

Model Number KSBS2SFJBL01

Three year old Kitchenaid Side by Side Refrigerator. The ice and water dispensers are not working. The little lights above each (indicating that the lock is on or off, cubes or crushed, etc.) are working, so it does not appear that there is no electricity getting to unit. Ice Maker is continuing to make ice. Any suggestions?

Also, how do I access the components that control the operation of these mechanisms that are in the freezer door of the side by side?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

If I were on the service call, I'd attach my mutimeter to wires that connect to the dispender side of the water inlet valve and then actuate the water dispenser, looking for 120v on my meter. No getty == bad switch in the dispenser. Getty == bad water inlet valve.

Here's a parts diagram of your dispenser in case you need it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may have broken wires coming out of the bottom of your door. One or more of the wires could have a break between the door and it's harness plug. This has happened on many Whirlpool/Kitchenaid/Kenmore side by sides. The only lasting fix is a new door assembly. Big money!

It's kind of hard to check visually because you have to get this nylon cover off of the harness to get a good look. You can take the cover off of the dispenser and do resistance checks on each wire by unplugging lower harness and matching up wire colors. you got to open and close the door while testing to find the break.

Good luck

Nick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the diagram. Have you the key that enables me to identify the various numbered parts?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All, I have a somewhat similar problem with my KitchenAid side-by-side. Model # KSRS25QFWH00 and it's over ten years old. I'm not sure if it's as simple as a bad water valve or if I also have an electrical problem.

I get no water at the door dispenser and no ice is being made although the auger rotates when I push in the paddle and I can see and hear the icemaker going through its cycle from time to time. After looking through many of the threads in this forum, I did the following trouble shooting:

Confirmed water supply was open with lots of pressure (and that Bounty works as advertised...)

Located water valve (has two solenoids) and using VOM tested for voltage (got none although the meter jumped a small amount when the water paddle was depressed on just one solenoid). I later took the connectors off just to make sure I was getting the VOM probes on the metal parts of the connectors - still saw no voltage.

I tested for voltage in all cases by depressing the water paddle in the door and of course the refr was plugged in.

The solenoid that directs flow to the refr's reservoir got hot while being tested (same solenoid that I saw the small jump in voltage on)

I tested the resistance of the solenoids, one was ~370 and the other ~355 ohms

Took the tubing off both solenoid outlets and depressed the water paddle - no water from either solenoid.

So..., the absence of voltage make me think it's electrical, but the fact the solenoid got warm says otherwise(?). The resistance measurements are within spec as I understand them - does that mean the valve is OK?

Any help or tips much appreciated.

Greg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"""Took the tubing off both solenoid outlets and depressed the water paddle - no water from either solenoid"""  sounds like a bad water valve or no water to the valve???  Also you will not have any voltage to the ice maker side of the valve till the ice maker goes thru the harvest cycle and gives voltage to the valve for about 7-8 seconds...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

javascript:emoticon(';)', 'images/emoticons/wink.gif')

wink

After resigning myself to the fact that I was getting nowhere, I called in an appliance repairman. He quickly resolved the problem. The wires in that particular model often crimp at the bottom of the freezer door. He opened the taped wires and sure enough two of them had become severed. He then spliced them, rewrapped the wires, and my problem was resolved.

Just a poorly designed wire route. However, it has been working fine since.

Good luck

;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Folks, thanks for the quick response and good ideas. I'll check the wiring first, and if everything looks OK there then I'll order a new valve.

The only other idea I've come up with is the water valve having some crud blocking its inlet. I can take it off and try to clean it, but I'll probably spend the $50 and just replace it since its 10+ years old.

I'll let you know what cures the patient. Thanks again.

Greg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All, the problem turned ut to be the water valve. After checking the wires and finding them at least looking OK, I ordered a new valve and installed it yesterday.

It's good to be back in the water and ice business. Thanks again for your guidance.

Greg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites